Powderkeg

We've been getting updates on our local station here in Mendocino County California. I wish you the best and will keep you and your family in our prayers. Dave Ruiz

Jefferson, This is my 76 with a 77 hood. Any particular reason you're asking? Dave Ruiz

Unfortunately I have gradually weaned myself away from Zcar. One can only take so much bickering about using the search button and reprimands about the lack of proper use of the English language. It amuses me how tough people get over the internet! H4Lights John! Glad to know you'll be here. I read that Blue is headed over here too. Dave Ruiz

If you haven't done this already, contact Dave Irwin (Zs-ondabrain) and have him make you a headlight harness upgrade for your 280Z. He doesn't heavily advertise the 280Z upgrades but he did mine and they work great. You'll need to get about 6 inches of original wiring and the plugs from the donor 280Z. Ask Dave for details. If those hood vents are still intact get them along with the aluminum brake drums. Have fun! Dave Ruiz

The sending unit has to come out of the tank. It's not that difficult. Disconnect the plugs..it'll be obvious where they connect. There's a collar that you have to gently turn (I've forgotten which direction...see FastWoman's post). And the unit comes right out. Be gentle when removing the unit. Remember how it's oriented so you don't put it in upside down. Do you have a camera? You should also replace the round black gasket. They are inexpensive. The whole process is really not difficult...you'll do fine. Be grateful that you have a 78 as most of the parts are still available at mostly reasonable prices. Good luck Dave Ruiz

Dan, I just ordered a Kyosan Fuel Pump today from ActiveAutoparts.com. The price is 18.95 + 8.95 shipping. Dave Ruiz

Argniest, I did my tank in September with POR-15 and it wasn't that difficult. It does take about a week because of the need to allow the POR-15 to dry properly. I coated the tank inside and out, replaced all of the fuel hoses, add a Fram G-3 fuel filter between the tank and fuel pump. Removing the tank isn't that difficult (If I can do it...anyone can). Since most of this has been covered before I'll just give you a few tips. I did this myself on a gravel driveway. Use ramps, jacks, wood blocks, railroad ties or whatever you can to make sure the car is secure. I had the rear of the car on drive-up ramps with all kinds of support. When removing the wheel splash panel you will now have access to the filler tube. The filler tube has three screws that attach to the base of the filler tube that is often hidden by mud and dirt. Use a good penetrating oil like KROIL or PB Blaster. All of the hoses should be available at the local auto parts store. The vent hose with the 180 degree bend is the annoying one. This is the 5/8 " (16 mm) and I had to order this one. You can make the bend by getting a 1/2" stainless steel tube and have a machine or muffler shop bend it for you. The Nissan ones may still be available. When you install the tank it's easier to attach the filler tube to the tank first then feed it through the filler tube hole. You can heat the tube with a heat gun to help it fit through the hole. It took me about a minute to do this. The filler tube is pretty stout so don't be overly concerned about getting a bit rough with it if necessary. The tank straps and "J" bolts may or may not be easy to replace if you break them so apply plenty of penetrating oil. I cleaned the bolts and straps and coated the straps with POR-15. Hose grommets are still available at MSA and other vendors. Or you can use shrink tubing. The hose sizes I used for my 76 were: 5/8" (16 mm) 1/4' (6.3 mm) 7/16" (11.1 mm) 3/8" (9.5 mm) Some articles: Classic Zcar.com: Search "Gas Tank Breather Hose" Aug 15 05 by Redfive. "Care in Removing Gas Tank Parts". Atlantic Z.com: Tech Tips "Replacing Vent Line Hoses" by Blue. HybridZ.com: "Gas Tank Vent Hoses". Good Luck Dave Ruiz

Stephen, The 76 doesn't have a cover like the 77-78. There is no rise on a 76. You can make a template of the rear out of newspaper or cardboard then copy it to the material of your choice i.e. plywood, chipboard, plastic. I did this on my 76 when I replaced the rear carpet with generic carpet from Walmart. I also replaced the space saver tire with a full size tire and this required a little more carpet than the original. I'm not sure what a bumper "sight shield" is but try MSA, Blackdragon, Zbarn, ebay, classifieds, etc. Good luck Dave Ruiz

I'd agree with Dave and get some heavy duty 4 gauge cables. Connect them to a good set of terminals used by car stereo industry. The brand I used is Raptor but there are several others. The allen bolts last a lot longer than the nuts on the typical auto store terminals. Dave Ruiz

Steve, Do you want to get rid of your stripped knob? If so PM me. Thanks. Dave Ruiz

The Holley Red Pump seems to be a favorite. Summit racing lists them at $107.95 Dave Ruiz

Try Skidmore's leather treatment. It's available direct, motorcycle shops, or if your town still has a shoes repair shop. Dave Ruiz

Wilson, As Bravo mentioned: search. There are several threads regarding tank problems. The most common problems seem to be: a bad fuel fuel filler hose or worn fuel hoses. You could also have a pinhole leak in the tank. Obviously it's hard to diagnose without more details. My tank (a 76) leaked like a sieve when I filled up directly underneath the filler mouth. The filler hose (from the filler neck to the tank) had pinholes in them. In all likelihood you're going to have to drop the tank and replace the offending hose. Of course while you have the tank out you'll want to replace all the hoses, possible coat the tank with POR-15 or equivalent, add a Fram G-3 fuel filter at the gas tank discharge line, check out the condition of the hard lines, paint the tank and underneath... you know... the usual excesses of a relatively simple repair! Most of the hoses are still available for the 73. You don't need factory hoses (Except for the fuel filler hose) as these can be had at most auto supply stores. The one problem child hose is the long factory 5/8" has with the 180 degree bend. You can get an adapter made by getting section of 1/2 inch stainless steel tubing bent by a good machine shop or muffler shop. Also make sure to get FUEL rated hoses and not heater hoses. Download a factory service manual and the articles here on this site and you should be set. Good luck Dave Ruiz

Ron did my rally clock as well (see my avatar). It took about a week. After about a week, there was a problem with the clock sticking and after sending it back to him twice he got it working. It runs perfect. I highly recommend his services! Dave Ruiz

I have Dave's Headlight harness & parking light harness upgrade. He also rebuilt my turn signal/headlight switch very inexpensively. I have a 76 280Z and I had to provide a couple of additional plugs for the headlight harness. His work is OUTSTANDING and would recommend getting all of his products. You won't be disappointed. Dave Ruiz

You may want to try ZeroRust as well. Dave Ruiz

If lubing the cable doesn't work and you still want to get a bracket then go to your local home supply and get about a foot of 1/2 flat metal. Check the gauge of the metal to see how flexible it is. Use the attachment you have as a template. All you need to do is experiment with the bends, test fit and bolt everything together. It took me about 45 minutes and believe me...fabrication and me have had a life long battle! If I can make one ...so can you. Good luck. Dave Ruiz

CarZ, I have a 76 280Z with a set of SU's (since 2005) from a 240Z. It's been very reliable. If your Sentra is an SE-R model (91-94) perhaps we could talk. Dave Ruiz PS: I'm 1/2 joking! Welcome to the site!

Dridge, I believe Autogator is called NOW (Nissan Only Wreckers). My suggestion is to take some photos of the switch as intact as you can. Take side, bottom, top,etc. Send the photos to Dave Irwin. He's has several rebuild options (as of earlier this summer): Send him your switch...he rebuilds it. or Send him detailed photos and he sends you a switch (you then send your switch to him as a core AFTERWARDS (he doesn't charge a core charge). These options ran under 150.00 at the time. He also has a few more options. I highly recommend you do business with him... he's a stand-up guy and buy everything else he sells. Dave Ruiz

Scott, They are a straight replacement. I replaced the headlights on my 76 280Z with Autopal Headlights from Black Dragon. They work fine. You can upgrade the bulb too. You still have to remove the entire highlight assembly to change the bulbs. I would highly recommend adding a headlight harness. I got mine from Dave Irwin (Zs-ondabrain). He can make one for a 280Z...you will have to supply him with a few stock 280Z plugs. You will not be disappointed in his products! Dave Ruiz

Contact Dave Irwin directly (Z'sondabrain). He made a wiring harness for my 76 280Z. I had to provide him with a few connectors. I think he may be able to to the same for a 260Z. His harnesses are really well built and I'd recommend them over the generic ones sold through Black Dragon. Dave Ruiz

Walter, Thank you. You are correct. 10W-30 in the Winter and 20W-50 in the summer. Dave

As long as you change your oil on a regular basis I wouldn't be too concerned. All of my driving is stock street and some may advise differently if you are racing. Use the recommended oil weights given in your FSM and you should be fine. I've use mostly Castrol and Penzoil 10w-30 in the Summer and 20W-50 in the Winter. I've used the following oil filters with no problems: Nissan OEM Baldwin B120 K&N 3001 Napa 91521 Fram PH8. There are many who recommend that you stay away from Fram citing poor design. I like the Nissan and Baldwin filters but seem to be using the Fram filters more because they are readily available. I can't comment on synthetic oil as I've never used them. There are also many posts about oil & filters here and on zcar.com. Good luck Dave Ruiz:beer:

I don't know what the smog requirements are in your area but it may be easier to own a 240 than a 280Z. I have a 76 280Z and live in California and for that reason alone I'd rather have a 240 or a 260. I'm also not that optimistic about the smog rules getting more favorable with the election of Jerry Brown. I hope I'm wrong. Also some parts are much easier to get for a 240Z: Fuel tank filler tubes, sending units, and more importantly Dave Irwin's electrical products are readily available for 240Z's. Dave Ruiz :