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wishihadaz

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  1. wishihadaz commented on SSS-S30's comment on a gallery image in Member Albums
  2. There are a number of Want-to-be Watanabes for much less $$$$$ Panasport Konig Rota offers a set-up that probably has the closest resemblance. http://www.racinglab.com/rota-rb-280z.html I cannot vouch for their performance/quality nor have I dealt with company.
  3. wishihadaz replied to MikeW's post in a topic in Open Chit Chat
    At the rate that I am going, I'd be better off building a scale model of my 72 240z. Even Tamiya 1/12 scale models are hard to come by.
  4. No, that is simply what I happen to like as most of us have posted. I thought I explained the "European" thing I my previous post above. The Hakasuka GTR was bad-arse, and I don't think there will be too many disagreements about it's performance or sound.
  5. Love this one too! I've played this over and over......and over....and over......
  6. So we have gone from "What does a European exhaust sound like" to what we like the sound of. My 2 cents- I'd have to agree that vintage E-Type Jags, Austin Healy 3000s and the like is what that sound is like, and I believe that "Monza" and "Ansa" marketed their exhausts to emulate that sound as evident when they were used on TR-6's and other straight 6's. So our Zcars come along and those same exhaust systems were fitted and the same resonating sound was produced. A Zcar with triple Webers, Mikunis, or ITB's is arguably most melodic; esp., with MSA's twice pipes.(when they were introduced, they also said something like "mellow-European exhaust note") All these systems use glasspack type mufflers. (fact) BTW - Ferraris achieve that screaming F1 sound through the use of single plane crank technology which changes the firing order of the cylinders. This is further heightened using "Capristo or "Tubi" aftermarket exhaust systems. (also a fact) Hats off to the American big block fans but that is definitely NOT "European".
  7. Unfortunately you can't achieve that true, vintage, ferrari-like sound with a turbo. Happens best when using triple Mikunis or Webers. In my former 2.4L set-up I ran DCOE40's, MSA 6into1 header, and twice pipes. (fitting problems too) I currently have a 2.8L, stock SU's (running rich) MSA 6into2 header and 2.5" custom system with a Borla XR-1 muffler. (tucked nicely) If I can just figure out how to get the mini DVD posted.:stupid:
  8. Couldn't get an OS Giken head for all the money in Japan. But for a suspension how bout......... ArizonaZcar's full "Roadrace Suspension" with Tokico Illuminas, billet alum. steering knuckles, mustashe bar and diff mount, urethane bushings, front and rear swaybars, and front and rear strut tower bars. You could literally dial it up-down, hard-soft, street-track. I've got too much time on my hands today!
  9. wishihadaz replied to 240ZMan's post in a topic in Wheels & Brakes
    I know this post is dated but I'm debating tire sizes for the 16 x 7 Rewinds. MSA says the max tire size is a 205/55-16 but I see that 240ZMan was able to run 225/50-16s on his Panasports. I will eventually be upgrading to Eibach progressive rate springs and Tokico HPs. I'm not opposed to having to roll my fenders but just want to avoid that extra expense. Thoughts?
  10. I would suggest that you spend some time looking at the wheels/tire posts on this site along with the numerous photos that have been posted in the galleries. Functionality vs. looks is somewhat of a paradox. What looks good may not function that well. Here's my point: suppose you come up with a wheel tire combo that nicely fills your fender wells, but exceeds the stock overall circumference/diameter. That will look good but you will have speedometer error. 1010 Tires has a wheel/tire calculator so you can compare combinations and see the margin of error. They also tell you the max size tire for a rim too. http://www.1010tires.com/TireSizeCalculator.asp?action=submit Good luck
  11. wishihadaz replied to jay28's post in a topic in Engine & Drivetrain
    Standard pistons do not increase CR by themselves. It depends on the head/piston combo you use. The reference from the Brian Little website is a good rule of thumb as you can make subtle adjustments with head gasket thickness and mild milling of the P90. Let the machine shop take the responsibility for getting the bore/piston right. You couldn't find a piston source in the UK? ITM is another supplier of stock/cast pistons as well as other internal parts. http://www.itmengine.com/index.html I did not use them because I got a deal on some forged pistons instead. Perhaps someone else may be able to vouch for them? Good luck!
  12. Former Datsun Dynamics mechanic Dave Jacques. CreationZ. www.creationz.biz
  13. Well it's been a little over a year since I trailered my baby from my sister's garage in Richmond, VA to my mechanic in Sterling, VA. 12 weeks became 12 months; patience..patience..patience....... The engine is near completion and here are the details. 2.8L bored .040" over, balanced and cc'd Ross forged pistons (strange looking huh?) Ported N47 head Isky 290/.490" cam Retuned SUs with SM needles MSA 6-2 header, 2.5" exhaust, Borla XR-1 muffler. I'll try to post a sound clip in the future.
  14. How about about "Balanced Performance". They are in the Atlanta area and have a connection to "Sunbelt". There was a write-up on a project zcar in Classic Motorsports magazine featuring them and what they did to the car. This might be good reference for the set-up you are talking about re: cams. There is also a company in Birmingham called "Paeco Industries". They have an extensive list of services and engine kits/parts. I have not had first hand experience with either though.
  15. wishihadaz replied to red_dog007's post in a topic in Engine & Drivetrain
    Are you stroking an L24 or an L28? I'm not being funny, it's not the same. Rebello does do strokers for L24s bumping them up 2.7L but for the price why not start with the 2.8L, unless that is what you mean? It ain't cheap!!!!

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