fugetaboti

I have an E88 you could buy pretty cheap if you would like. It has been machined, but hasn't been on an engine for as long as I've had it. I'll give it to you for like 20 bucks and whatever it costs to ship. I'm in San Diego, CA. Rick

Thanks greyghost, I think I might just go with that. So I don't need a regulator? I'm glad you turned me on to this pump since it fits in the stock location. That's pretty much what I was looking for. I would have bought whatever worked, but this sounds great. Thanks, Rick

Where do I find the jet sizes that are in my carbs? The only thing I've seen is something marked "OA".

Carl, Thank you so much for your reply. I guess I'll just have to look for a pump which produces at least 3.0 PSI and 97GPH. The question now is where should I buy such a pump. Would Auto Zone or NAPA work? Thanks, Rick

Carl, I have an L28 N42. At the moment, I do not have a cam, but I'm looking into one. The only thing I need to know at the moment is whether anyone knows of a specific fuel pump and regulator which works well for running these carbs. Rick

I have a 73 240z which I'm assuming should have an electric fuel pump already, but I think the previous owner removed it. I'm trying to figure out what kind of pump I should by to run these carbs, and what fuel pressure regulator? Any help would be greatly appreciated. Thanks, Rick

I believe that the L28 uses just under 5 quarts of oil, the spark plugs I use are whatever AutoZone says to use. I think mine are Bosch Platinum single electrode type. If you can find NGK's use those. NGK is under a new name nowadys I believe. The airfilter can be bought through AutoZone, but it will have to be ordered...they don't carry them in stock. However, I do see them for sale on ebay brand new still in box all the time. Hope this all helps! Rick

Ended up taking the control arms to a machine shop, and a 60 ton press got them out pretty easilly. NAPA's machine shop charged me 30 bucks to do 5 minutes of work...not too sure I'm willing to go back for anything like that, but they were the only ones open on a Saturday morning. Anyways, I finished the front end, and have been driving the car for the last few days. What a difference it's made. I can't wait to drive it when the entire thing is complete. Thanks for all the info. Rick

All I have to say is this, if they built them to look like the originals, then there would be even less of a market for the old ones then there already is. I love the 70-73 cars, I own a 73, but I wouldn't want a 2008 240 lookalike. The late 70's early 80's ZX's were hideous in my opinion and they still kinda had the look of the 240-280Z. I think the 350Z could use a nicer front end, but I still love the car. A dealership let me have one last year for almost two weeks before I took it back, and it was the best two weeks of my life. Unfortunately I wasn't ready to fork over 30K. I don't mean to offend anyone, but that was just my opinion. I respect everyone elses just the same. Rick

It depends on whether or not you are running carbs or FI. If going to run carbs you'll be fine, you'll just have to adjust them to run well with the L26. If you are trying to run FI, you will more than likely run very rich due to the change in displacement. Rick

Thanks Jon, I'm going to give it a try tommorow. I'll let you know how it turned out. Rick

Now I'm having a problem with my front control arm bushings. I sucsesfully removed the old rubber, but now the urethane bushing won't fit. It almost seems like the metal shell needs to be removed, but the 20 ton press wouldn't make it budge. According to the parts list in the bushing kit, the bushing I am attempting to install are the correct ones, but they just will not fit. Should I have a machinist drill the shell out? Is this shell a part of the control arm, or is it just seized in place? Thanks, Rick

Thanks for the help, those are the answers I was looking for. Hopefully everything goes well for me.

I am really unsure about my installation of the Eibach Springs and Tokico HP's. I replaced the shock on the driver side front. Got everything bolted up and then I realize that the spring will not seat. The entire strut assembly is loose. I realize that the Eibach spring is much shorter than the stock spring, so what do I do? Is this supposed to be this way untill you drop the car on the ground? Any help will be greatly appreciated. Rick

When I bought my Z a while back, I wanted to clean things up, and removing the air tubes was one of the first things I did. I went about it all wrong when I used JB Weld to plug the holes. One by one, they would pop off during hard acceleration. I took the old fitting from the air tube and went to NAPA to have them match it up to some brass caps. I installed each one without removing anything from the engine. It can be difficult on some holes, but it is very possible with everything in place. I found it to be easier if the manifold was somewhat hot. If the manifold is cold, you'll have a very diffcult time installing the hard to reach holes. Hope this helps. Rick

Sorry about not using the search function. I had just not seen that thread lately. So I guess it's really not a special head or anything. At least now I can stop thinking about going to get it. Thanks for the reply though!

I was at the junk yard last week looking as usall, and I ran into a Z with an L28 and a Y70 head. Does anyone know of such a head, and if it's worth picking up? I'm just curious as to whether or not it's some kind a performance head from Japan, and if it's better than my current N42. Any information on this would be greately appreciated!

Not to sound harsh or anything, white faced gages are for fast and furious wannabes in cheap civics with oversized wings which look like crap by the way and autozone shift knobs. A classic Z looks much better the way Datsun designed them in my opinion. I hope I didnt offend anyone...just my own humble opinion.

Actually, a gage is an instrument and guage refers to size. I know this from ordering pressure and temperature gages on a regular basis for the military. When refering to wire diameter and shotgun shells, guage wuold be appropriate.

Do you know about the other component sizes like chokes and venturis?

I am trying to figure out what the best head would be for an L28? I'm wanting to install forged flat top pistons, bigger cam, headers, and my tripple Dellorto 40's. I currently am running an N42 head stock, but something about square ports just doesn't seem efficient. Maybe I'm wrong, but I've heard the E31 and the P90 being the best. E31 having small valves, but that could be changed I would assume. Anyways hopefully someone could push me in the right direction.

Thanks, that would be awesome if you could give me a roundabout jetting config. I have electronic ignition and plan head work, higher compression and all that good stuff. I'm just hoping that when all is said and done, the 40's wont be too small. I'm sure they will work great for now with virtually no mods. Can you feel the difference with tripples as opposed to su's? I'm sure it's a dumb question, but I've heard guys say that su's run better and sometimes make more power. I just cant see how two carbs would outperform three. Plus I think tripples look great too!

Hi there, I'm pretty new to this site and I have a question. I have a 73 240z with L28 and N42 head. I'm thinking of buying a tripple set of 40 DHLA carbs and I want someone's opinion on them. Also the ones for sale are not jetted for a Z. Does anyone know what jets to use, and also how far I can mod the engine before they become too small? I wanted Mikuni 44phh, but they seem to be hard to find and the Dellorto's are available to me right now pretty cheap. Would I be better off with the S.U's instead. I plan to add flat top pistons, and a higher compression head as well as headers and 2.5" pipes all the way back. Any advice would be much appreciated.

Ed, Thanks alot for the input. My girlfriend actually was telling me about zwhizz the other day after she passed by it. I have to agree on the early 70's being more desirable, I bought the 73 because it was the best one I'd seen as far as the body was concerned. About a week after I bought it a guy drove by my car parked in front of the house and asked if I knew anyone looking for a '70. I told him I wanted to look at it so I did and it was beautifull. Original everything. The guy wants 4500 and I couldn't fork out the cash after buying mine. Maybe if he doesnt sell it anytime soon I might pick it up. Anyways Ed thanks again and if you have anymore insight to share feel free to post it. -Rick-

Hi there! I just recently purchased my first Z, a 73 240z. I thought I knew what to look for when I bought it, but I overlooked 1 thing. About a week after a got it, I was degreasing the engine compartment when I realized this thing has an L-28 not a 24. The lady who sold it to me was the first owner and did tell me the original engine was long gone, but this was a correct engine for the year. Needless to say I was alittle upset. The question I have is how much better does the 28 perform compared to the 24? Also the car shakes hard when taking off or shifting gears unless i work the clutch just right. She said that the clutch needs to be matched to the flywheel or something like that. Anyways I'm thinking it's gotta either be the wrong clutch, or not all of the correct components were installed when the engine swap was done, as i belelive it is a correct tranny for a 240. Can anyone guide me in the right direction? Thanks -Rick-