Nigel1943

I know its a long time since your post but I've only just noticed it! Bilsteins available from Bilstein UK, Leicester, Google them.

And did the noise start just after you changed the oil? If so, what oil pressure are you getting.

May be my imagination but your vid seems to indicate the noise is louder at the rear of the engine which could possibly suggest oil starvation (blockage?) in the rear cam towers. I would be inclined to do an oil change as a precaution.

There are 2 fuel pump relays in the engine compartment passenger side sidewall. These are probably the cause of your problem.

Those two rally teams you refer to, strengthen the 260/280 arms further. It is'nt the horse power that kills them it's the rough roads that they have to contend with.

It took me best part of a year to find good rear control arms for my rally project. Sandblasting will show up any rust holes in yours especially as you come from Alberta. I would recommend at the very minimum you seam weld the spot welded edges. In rally use they have been known to bend at the inner bush end but I don't think you need to worry about this in your case. Oh, and if you do have to change them, use 260z ones which are stronger.

If you look at page 188 of the Haynes manual you will see the ball end of the inner track rod sitting in its seat with the spring behind it. The seat and the spring should just pull out. Try putting the rack on end and gently tap the end of the housing, it should just fall out.

As the M/C has been removed, have you checked to see if the rubber reaction disc is in place inside the booster ?

That front spoiler on No 31 would'nt last long on a Safari rally:ermm:

Satin black ?

Number1, you will probably need a multi-hole camshaft sprocket to get the timing right. Number 2, to get it right you will also need a suitable dial guage to measure the amount of rotation of the camshaft at TDC, otherwise you are wasting your time with an upgraded cam. Your camshaft looks to be very similar to mine, being set at 4.2mm lift at TDC on no1 inlet valve. Tappets are set at 0.006 thou inlet and 0.008 exhaust.

Agreed that pillar is a wite-off and I would be looking at the condition of the air-tubes under the fenders and all the other well known rot areas. Cant believe there isn't any more serious problems judging by the condition of that pillar.

I'll give you they are tight. Clamp the m/cyl tight in a vice (with flat protection plates), use a 3/4" drive socket (1 1/8" in my case), long rachet wrench, mine around 18", and they loosen in seconds. You can never have enough tools!

I'm confused, isn't this a modified TRANNY mount not a diff mount ?

The 260 engine has the same stroke as the 280 so personally I would bore the block to 86mm (260 is 83mm), fit flat top pistons which will give an approximate compression of 9.5 to 1 and overall a reasonable increase in HP. This assumes the rest of the engine is good.