Nigel1943

I know its a long time since your post but I've only just noticed it! Bilsteins available from Bilstein UK, Leicester, Google them.

And did the noise start just after you changed the oil? If so, what oil pressure are you getting.

May be my imagination but your vid seems to indicate the noise is louder at the rear of the engine which could possibly suggest oil starvation (blockage?) in the rear cam towers. I would be inclined to do an oil change as a precaution.

There are 2 fuel pump relays in the engine compartment passenger side sidewall. These are probably the cause of your problem.

Those two rally teams you refer to, strengthen the 260/280 arms further. It is'nt the horse power that kills them it's the rough roads that they have to contend with.

It took me best part of a year to find good rear control arms for my rally project. Sandblasting will show up any rust holes in yours especially as you come from Alberta. I would recommend at the very minimum you seam weld the spot welded edges. In rally use they have been known to bend at the inner bush end but I don't think you need to worry about this in your case. Oh, and if you do have to change them, use 260z ones which are stronger.

If you look at page 188 of the Haynes manual you will see the ball end of the inner track rod sitting in its seat with the spring behind it. The seat and the spring should just pull out. Try putting the rack on end and gently tap the end of the housing, it should just fall out.

As the M/C has been removed, have you checked to see if the rubber reaction disc is in place inside the booster ?

That front spoiler on No 31 would'nt last long on a Safari rally:ermm:

Satin black ?

Number1, you will probably need a multi-hole camshaft sprocket to get the timing right. Number 2, to get it right you will also need a suitable dial guage to measure the amount of rotation of the camshaft at TDC, otherwise you are wasting your time with an upgraded cam. Your camshaft looks to be very similar to mine, being set at 4.2mm lift at TDC on no1 inlet valve. Tappets are set at 0.006 thou inlet and 0.008 exhaust.

Agreed that pillar is a wite-off and I would be looking at the condition of the air-tubes under the fenders and all the other well known rot areas. Cant believe there isn't any more serious problems judging by the condition of that pillar.

I'll give you they are tight. Clamp the m/cyl tight in a vice (with flat protection plates), use a 3/4" drive socket (1 1/8" in my case), long rachet wrench, mine around 18", and they loosen in seconds. You can never have enough tools!

I'm confused, isn't this a modified TRANNY mount not a diff mount ?

The 260 engine has the same stroke as the 280 so personally I would bore the block to 86mm (260 is 83mm), fit flat top pistons which will give an approximate compression of 9.5 to 1 and overall a reasonable increase in HP. This assumes the rest of the engine is good.

Does it whine in all gears or just in the lower or higher gears ?

I know this is'nt a Z distributor because it is 4 cylinder, but I wondered if anyone could identify it. It is the same configuration as an L series dizzy in length and fitment ( fits an L series front cover) and has the same offset drive. It is electronic but seems to have strange vacuum advance pipes. Made by Mitsubishi. Anyone ?

Have you had the lid off the offending carb after running to see if its overfilling. There are 5 different needle valves for the DCOE and also a viton tipped one. I would suspect it's the needle valve that's causing the problem.

Possibly your alternator is faulty. Even tho you might be getting a charge at the battery a bad alternator can drain it.

Should both be the same.

The white wire has a black plastic shroud around it so you might not have spotted it. The blue and white wire exits some 9" or so back up the main fuseblock harness.

Sounds like a camshaft timing issue. Is the dowel in place on the camshaft sprocket ? Other possibles are a defunct tensioner or a broken key on the crankshaft sprocket.

So what are the plus's of the Fidanza flywheel? Incidentally I'm planning to use the turbo clutch in my rally car build on the basis that they are used in some Australian built safari rally cars without any issues as far as I know.

Those tranny ratios are OEM for the euro 260 2+2.

I'd say your compression is going to be a touch high with 0.080 off the head and 0.040 oversize pistons (flat tops ? )