Nigel1943

Don't mean to be picky but I'd have thought pans w/o holes would be cheaper, one less operation, or have I missed something?

The outer (Thackery) washers look a tad too tight. They are designed to allow flexability in the carb mounting.

Should be 27mm from the edge of the carb body. Not sure how that relates to the "top jet tower".

Check out thread posted by louisf on 5-17-2007, "why is 77 4 speed collar longer than 5 speed"

So, do you know what clutch/throwout collar you have in now? Is it a 225mm clutch or a 240mm?

I'm assuming you had a 4 speed tranny in before. The most likely cause of your problem is that you have the wrong clutch/throwout collar combination for a 5 speed.

Correct!

Suggest it might be the control module on the side of the distributor. It has letters/numbers embossed on it, probably E12 80.

25mm.

There are 3 float weights available, 7.0 grams, 8.5 & 10.0. These weights should be marked on the bottom of the float. Distance settings should be carried out by holding the carb cover vertically with the gasket installed so that the measurement between the gasket and the float should be:- 10gram, 16.5-17.0mm, 8.5gram, 15.5-16.00 and 7gram, 14.5-15.00mm. Tweak the metal "ears" to achieve this. The "ear" should be just resting against the needle valve during this operation.

OLZED: So what car/model did the power steering come off?

Not sure how you checked the closed position but if they are anything like Dellortos the closed position is adjusted by holding the cover vertically and measuring and adjusting the float position to the required distance. Does this problem happen on all three carbs?

Old school Triumph wheels will also fit.

Checked my spare stub axles. They all have different numbers stamped on them.

I personally would'nt use the shaved stub axle again especially as the PO obviously didn't have much faith in it at 40lbs torque (should be around 190lbs). Yes all 240's have the backing plate. I guess the markings perhaps refer to the spacer required between the bearings but I would'nt be certain.

The hub is the bit that fits onto the stub axle and holds your wheels on.

matt: You should visit the UK Zclub. You'll see a lot more there.

I believe at the last count there were 150 240's 0n the DVLA data base which includes SORN'D cars (which mine is one) and probably those that have never been registered as scrapped.

Have you tried lubricating the bob weights in the bottom of the distributor? They could be sticking or you could have a broken spring. Only way to find out is to take it apart.

Reading your post tells me you have done what I was thinking of doing but I don't understand 100%. Do I take it you have shortened the output flange by 1"? Any chance of a pic or drawing?

The main issue here is usually getting enough braking to the rear brakes when using the Toyota front calipers. People using the same setup as Dave have found that a proportioning valve needs to be almost wide open to acheive this. Incidentally the 240 (not 260) also has a valve in the rear line which should be discarded.

Upgrades working a treat Dave so I know if your'e using the R/T mount it's going to be AOK. I'll watch the thread.

Dave: Any chance of 1 with the GM mount to the UK?

Can't speak for the US but Euro 260's had point ignition and as this one has a ballast resistor I suspect it is also point ignition.

As a gnarled old rally driver I wonder how much "grief" the R/T mount will take. It's a excellent piece of innovation but as far as I can see relies totally on the integrity of the bond of the GM mount to the mounting plate. Yes, it will stop the diff kicking up under acceleration but under deceleration will test the bond and add to the gravitational pull. Anyone used one for any length of time?