Nigel1943

Maybe so, but I would be looking in this area first. Stranger things have happened,

My guess is it's the timing chain rattling caused by either incorrect adjustment or low or nil oil feed to the tensioner.

The lead from the lever switch is obviously earthing somewhere, possibly under the carpet.

I'd be interested to know the thickness of your old pressure plate as I'm fairly certain the standard zx 280 is a "thick" plate and still uses the longer collar. I have one to measure so I'll let you know. If this is true then something else must be different, ie, the slave cylinder, clutch fork or tranny fork pivot height.

Well, at least you have the right clutch! As for the rest of your problem I don't think you are going to get a definitive answer until you take the tranny out again and do some measuring up, in partcular the depth of the pressure plate from face to clutch fingers. The type B collar uses a different fork and non- adjustable slave cylinder.

Unless the m/cylinder has been disassembled from the booster it's unlikely it will be the reaction disc. First check for leaks at the brake cylinders and calipers. If there are no leaks then pump up the pedal by a few strokes and if it pumps up then goes to the floor the chances are the m/cylinder is at fault.

Firstly,Black Dragon show a different part no for the 280 and I'm sure you know some 280's have a 240mm clutch as against the 240's 225mm one. I'm assuming you have the 240 0ne What we need is some dimensions of the new clutch to determine which sleeve you need but of course that will mean taking the tranny out again. If you disconnect the slave cylinder pushrod and then push the clutch fork by hand, how much movement is there before the bearing hits the clutch?

Does'nt sound like you have the correct release bearing carrier to me. This is the problem with mixing and matching clutch components. How do you know you need a 280z carrier and do you know you have actually got one? I think you will end up taking the tranny out again to measure up. Also, have you put the clutch disc back in the right way round?

Could be the pump is "annoyingly loud" because it's sucking air.

Jetaway, have you ever had the gas tank cleaned out? Could be some crud floating about in the tank and occasionly blocking the outlet.

I stand corrected, I have the exact same set as you.

Yes, but not in the block, which was the question, 7x 35mm. There is a 50mm one which is for the cylinder head and a 40mm one which I'm not entirely sure where it goes, maybe at the front of the cylinder head.

Just for your reference those clips are not spot welded to the body. The clips themselves are separate and are held on by the spot welded bracket.

So where do you bolt it up to for this effect?

This just has to be a ground somewhere. The engine should still carry on running even with low voltage in the battery. Check your alternator wiring again especially the ground. The problem has to be there somewhere.

Ok, so all the "new" alternators you've tried are internally regulated (ie ZX type not LT 160 or similar ), yes ?

Have you checked the voltage regulator ?

So are you saying the battery is dead after 1 mile?

Seized caliper pistons?

Only problem I can see is that you have 2 right hand cylinders. They are handed L & R.

The pic is a competition bar.

May have been wrong about the hole centres. They look about the same, ie 85mm.

There's a thicker competition bar available for the R200, not sure about the R180. I think the two bars have different hole centres for the different diffs so that's a no no unless you want to break an R200 bar as well. Why don't you have a word with Stuart Wilkins, rally man in your continent.

What makes you think it's a 5 speed? Looks like a 4 speed to me. Have you driven the car with it in?