Nigel1943

Yeh, I have, but for the life of me I can't remember where. Astrali perhaps? Think I saw them advertised on UK ebay. If I remember rightly it was a guy dealing in MGB's.

You running a LSD?

"Two nations divided by a common language". We call them stub axles in the UK

I think you have the front and rear suspension confused here and I presume you are talking about the front. There is no spindle in the front. You probably need to adjust the wheel bearing to take out the play.

New Bilsteins still available in the UK to any spec required. I have a new set to rally spec. They are fitted to coilovers. I havn't quite worked out the top mount arrangement yet although I will be using stock top mounts which need to be drilled out to 14mm. Incidentally, the top of the strut has a allen key hole to facilitate tightening.

I'd say it's almost definately your driveshaft UJ's.

As a matter of interest, what determines which spacer is required? I have had 3 pairs of stub axles, all with the "B" spacer and crush washer. So in what circumstances would the others be used?

So you have the pump on a seperate switch and the ignition off the ignition switch, right?

Not quite clear from your post exactly how youv'e wired the pump. You appear to have supplied power to it twice, once thro a switch from the battery and again thro the OEM green wire. Am I reading this right?

Just wondering if you are getting a feedback from the alternator which will still give power until the engine stops turning. It would mean the ignition would have to be permanately on.

Two issues to address here. The clutch could be stuck after the winter laydown but before you do anything about that the gear selection needs to be sorted. You say you have a "B" series 5 speed which presumably is the ZX box. I'm just wondering, especially after your comment about the shifter boots, whether you or the PO, have modified the tranny tunnel to accept this gearbox. If not it's quite likely the shifter is fouling the front of the shifter hole(dropped out of 3rd you said). Don't quite know why you hadn't noticed this before but these things happen.

The inhibitor switch circuit appears to not only have an effect on the starter but also the ignition.

In the engine bay, passenger side, group of three, one nearest the front of the car. There is also another ignition relay under the dash,passenger side, high level, second one in towards the front.

Could be a fault on the auto box inhibitor switch.

302 mm diameter, 120 teeth.

I take it you wedged the timing chain before you stripped the motor? FORGET THE ABOVE, DIDN'T READ THE THREAD PROPERLY.

Thanks Carl. Useful article. Basically confirms what I said that the ratios in the ZX tranny are superior to the SX box. As for strength, the selector forks in the SX are obviously beefed up to presumably counteract the tendency of the ZX to break them but double roll pins seems to cure this problem. Can't see why it's necesary to go to the expense of all the hassle to fit the SX tranny when there's a tranny available which for 90% of daily drivers is perfectly adequate and in some respects superior.

So what are the ratios? As far as I can see they are not as good as the late 280zx tranny, especially the low 1st. The late 280zx was classified by Nissan as a "close ratio" tranny. The later one also had the benefit of stronger synchros. As with all choices of trannys very much depends on your choice of wheel/tyre sizes and final drive.

Don't know what you guys pay for a rebuilt rad in the US but there's an outfit in your country selling an aluminium 3 row rad with 2x12" electric fans for $230 which is good value in the UK let alone the US. EBAY Monsterradiators.

Looks like an L28 turbo racing wet sump with the turbo oil return on the side.

In the UK. www.burlen.co.uk

Back to basics then. Cracked distributor cap One or more ignition leads breaking down Carb needle valve sticking Carb float levels incorrect Mixture incorrect et al Have you checked the color of the spark plugs after a run?

I take it the electric pump isn't off an injected RX7. If it is it will have way too much pressure. What year was it off? I agree the intake coolant flow is not your problem.

Just a thought. Do you know what pressure the RX7 pump is running at? Needs to be 3-4lbs.

Who built the diff? It should have a bit of play in it (backlash) between the pinion and ring gear. It most definately should not be tight. Other than that you say the wheels spin freely but can you hear any rumblings when you spin them?