Nigel1943

Are parts available for the 280zx electronic distributor in the US? There is very little here in the UK. I'm mainly after the internal magnet.

Wrong. The front line goes to the reservoir nearest the booster on the ZX cylinder. The F & R embossed on the cylinder should have been the giveaway! With regard to the booster piston rod I had the opportunity to measure the length out of the booster on the stock ZX and if I remember correctly it was 10mm.

Three possible issues here. In a couple of axles I've stripped, instead of the correct stepped outer bearing there was a plain bearing and a spacer washer and also as far as I know there are at least two different length spacers between the bearings the most common one being the "B" spacer. I have also come across the copper washer.

Plenty of heat is usually the answer to this problem. Put the bit in the oven at highest temperature or if you're really brave play an oxy/act torch aross the bit and get it real hot. Should break the corrosion thats causing the problem.

The Datsun works rally team in the 70's MUST have used dual pipes for a reason and it can't have been because they could'nt get hold of 2 1/2" tube:)

You say you fabricated the exhaust system yourself? Z's are reknowned to have a flat ("bog") spot around 3000-4000rpm. This can be eliminated to an extent by having the longest secondary pipes you can get in, preferably back to the gearbox and then run into the Y piece. I'd be interested to know where your Y piece is. Not sure about running 2.5" into 3.00" either, depends whereabouts on the system it is.

Questions: Was it running ok prior to fitting the 45's? Have you altered the timing since fitting them? Do you pump the gas pedal prior to trying to start?

Pic of progressive spring (with helper spring on top) on a UK rally car.

Absolute class! And here in the jolly old UK.

Simple answer, NO. For one thing all the component parts on a used diff are bedded in to each other and therefore not interchangeale with parts from another used diff. Secondly, the pinion on the two diffs are different lenghts. Thirdly. building a diff is not recommended for the amateur as there numerous fine measurements to adhere to such as pinion depth, backlash to name but two.

Nice set-up. Where did the air filter and heat shield come from?

I'd go with peterc on this one. Tank out I'm afraid, but check the fuel filter first.

Don't forget your pads on the right hand side hav'nt been "bedding" onto the disc the same as the left side for a while so it may take some time to balance out. I'm assuming you did'nt change the pads when you changed the caliper pistons. Try a few hard braking sessions to hurry things along. Did you check the left hand caliper pistons as well?

Just in case I did'nt make myself clear about the handing of the lugs, this is the 95 motor fitted.

Firstly, my thanks to Dave for cracking this nut. Just pulled this motor from a 1995 UK spec Civic. Everything is the same except the mounting lugs, which are handed to the earlier cars. The advantage is that there is no danger of the new mounting holes "ripping" into the original holes which has to be a plus. Can't see the US cars being any different.

Check for air leaks around your intake manifold area both to the carbs and the head. Sounds like it's going lean.

Brief description of the top running 260's. They have remote canister suspension, uprated moustache bar, big LSD diff, close ratio competition trannys, heated windscreen (no heater), 240+bhp engines, lighter flywheel with competition clutches, foam filled gas tanks, integral multipoint roll cages, underbody kevlar shields and fully seam welded bodyshells with strengthend chassis rails (especially around the bulkhead)

Guuss: I think you'll find most 260's/240's entered cost a similar or even more amount to build and also have equivalent WRC suspension legs. Engine output will also be not far away from the Escorts. As for weight the Escorts may have the edge there.

Looking for a speedo gear for a 5.1to1 diff. Which one is it from the courtesy nissan list?

I'm guessing here but that system looks as though it's designed for two separate mufflers and for each pipe to come out from each side of the car. The early Datsun works rally cars had a similar system. Aside from its' vunerability it should theoretically be far more efficient than a single pipe system.

As for stage1, stage 2 etc, this means different things to different people dependent on who you buy the cam off. Only safe way is to get details of the lift/duration. Regarding the hesitation L series engines are well known for having a flat spot around 3500-4000rpm, which can be eliminated to a certain extent by fitting a proper header with a the longest collector you can get on. I suspect your hesitation is something else at 2000rpm, maybe carburation.

Firstly, with the Toyota switch the braking should have improved significantly so I suspect there was something not right with your calipers in the first instance. Were they new? If your brakes are pulling badly to one side then it's usually a problem with caliper pistons sticking, probably from when you first put them on.

ZX is a stronger tranny than the original 240. Better still if it's a late one (ratios closer). Good swop, only down side (dependant on which tranny you had in the first place) is your 1st gear may be a bit low and you may need to change the speedo drive in the box but having said that if it all came out of the same car then this won't be a problem. Increase in gas mileage will be marginal as will top speed but having said that acceleration will be improved.

Ping or "pre-detonation" caused as above by low octane fuels with stock timing. It is basically a noise from the engine which sounds like a rattle and can ocurr whilst normal driving or occasionally when the engine is switched off, ie., the engine runs on with the ignition switched off. Can be dialled out by resetting the timing but with reduced performance.

ZX, 10,000rpm. Don't think so:rolleyes: