Nigel1943

Possibly fuel starvation, pump, fuel line, carb float levels and tank. It could also be electrical, coil faulty.

They are called dashpots and should work ok if you remove the top of both of them and clean them with a heavy duty metal polish inside the tops and the whole of the internal piston. When you reassemble move the tops loosely around until the piston rises and falls freely using the button underneath the carb. This all assumes the damper piston in the centre of the top is in position. They don't need much oil, only a teaspoon or so, to work correctly.

Calipers are handed so as long as you can fit one to each side with the bleed nipple at the top of each it does'nt matter what's marked on them.

Would'nt touch the Webers unless you're prepared to spend a lot of money on them. Chances are they are completely crudded up inside which can only be cleaned up successfully by a complete tear down and sonically cleaned. Then there is the question of correct jetting for the L24 which again can cost a lot.

You want to get out moreLOL

Quite often one of the first signs of a pilot bush breaking up is what appears to be a synchro problem in the tranny.

It's not just your overall height that matters. It's the length of your body trunk from your butt to the top of your head that governs the seat height. Also the size of your buttROFL I should know, I'm only 5'-8' and I have to have the seat mounted almost on the floor to clear my helmet.

they have the choke cables connected properly. Even with the choke it takes a while for it to turn over! Would an electric fuel pump solve my problems? Will it turn on the first key? AHHHH Keith Are you sure the chokes are working properly? Check that with the lever in the car pulled fully back that the nozzles underneath the carbs are pulled down. Some adjustment on the cable ends may be required. Even after a week there should be enough fuel in the carb float chambers to start the car. Fitting an electric pump won't make any difference.

Yes but this guy has'nt even got the fuel to the carbs yet so what I'm suggesting is a way to get fuel up to the carbs with the least restriction. Still can't see the point of two pumps. The stock mechanical pump is perfectly adequate for twin SU's.

If I'm reading this right you've got two pumps in the system which seems a bit crazy to me. When you switch on the ignition the electric pump will be trying to push fuel to the mechanical pump which will block the fuel until the engine is running. Try bypassing the mechanical pump after making sure the electric one is working. With the ignition on leave an open end on the fuel pipe (in the engine bay) until fuel is pumped thro, connect to the carbs and hopefully you'll get fuel to them as well.

I'd say this is fuel related. Dont know if you've ever had your tank cleaned but 35 year old tanks do tend to "crud up" blocking the outlet when the crud moves about. Other than that is your pump working ok?

All heads are 108mm thick.

Check your float levels.

The advance curve will be all wrong for a carbed L28

Won't be able to hear it in my rally car anyway, along with the rest of the cacophany! More interested in the reliability and efficiency.

Why?:surprised

There is no best place to mount lights on a Z. Fitted anywhere near or on the existing bumper interfers with the opening of the hood. There are basically two alternatives, remove the grill and mount them well back near the radiator or fit a drop-bar, ie cut a section out of the centre of the bumper and drop it down on new brackets welded to the existing ends. This is what most rally car boys do for round lights. Dont know about rectangular lights, you may be able to squeeze them in. Cibie's probably have the edge over Hella's.

Here's one of Greece's finest! Note the neat parking.

Only just noticed the US cars don't have a spoiler. All european cars have one as standard so I presume they are available thro your dealer.

Is your head gasket OK. The bores could be filling with water/oil preventing you from cranking the engine. Probably drain out into the oil pan if left standing. Check your oil level. As has been said, bit more info needed.

Looks to me the front has been knocked sideways. I'd start by checking the drivers side frame rail position and jack it into place first. Have your new panels to hand and offer them up as you jack. Hood looks a gonner.

I've asked this question before but where do you guys get new synchro rings from? Can't get them in the UK.

We don't have the 280 in the UK but on the basis of my knowledge of FI I would suggest that perhaps your ECU is on the blink or the throttle switch is not working. First line of attack is to clean all the electrical connectors, WD 40 etc, especially as the car has obviously stood for a while.

HEH! R/H drive is only a US car the other way round. Less electrical gubbins on it as well. Should actually be easier to work on. Parts are 90% the same as Euro/Aus cars so parts should'nt be any more expensive. Only major differences that come to mind are the dash, gearbox [ UK never got the 4speed or auto] and therefore driveshaft. You also get the benefit [possibly] of a 3.9 diff. Body parts are the same with the exception, of course, of the bulkhead and the rear quarters[ one hole on each for turn signals] Just make sure it's not a Fairlady Z.