Nigel1943

Which is why I asked if he was running a heat shield, but as he is I wouldn,t think he has too much of a problem with under hood heat in Vancouver.

Yes, definately.

It will run with the stock coil but not properly. Have you bypassed the ballast resistor? You will need to do this even with the stock coil.

I see you are running a 280zx distributor. Do you have the matching 280zx or similar electronic coil? The coil could break down when hot. Have you bypassed the ballast resistor?

I assume you have a heat shield installed?

Sounds like a timing issue, either the camshaft or the distributor. Have the advance weights in the distributor been checked for free movement? Does the car idle ok?

ATF is a bit thin but that on it's own should'nt cause the problem. As I said, make sure the pistons are rising and falling properly. There is a small amount of adjustment on the three or four screws holding the dashpot down. The way I do it is to slacken the screws off until you can twist the dashpot slightly, then move it left or right and with your finger on the dashpot button underneath the carb at the same time as pushing the dashpot "cylinder " down, adjust the cylinder until you can feel the piston rising and falling freely. BTW, have you got 3 or 4 screw carbs?

OK, so I'm assuming the "cylinders" you cleaned were the dashpots on the top of the carbs? Have you checked to make sure the internal piston is rising and falling smoothly? There's a button underneath the carb to check this. Also make sure you have oil in the dashpot.

What "cylinders" did you clean?

What I'm getting at is that you may have a bearing related problem in either the diff or tranny caused by low oil levels. 80w90 in the diff but I prefer 75/80 semi synthetic in the tranny although some might disagree.

Does it start vibrating at any speed after 20 miles and does it continue. A duff u joint would normally make itself known as soon as you started driving. Have you checked/changed the diff/tranny oil?

Never seen one that works yet.

Take the screen out with the trim. Put it back the same way with the trim installed.

Ah, I know the one you mean now. It's the interlock fork which selects the shift rod for the gears. To be honest I'd be inclined to strip the box for any other issues as I'm not aware of this being a common problem.

Do you mean the selector fork that fits around the gears? Picture?

Sounds to me like a selector fork problem. The roll pins in the selectors have been known to break causing the tranny trying to get two gears at a time.

Yeh. Thought I'd seen it somewhere.

Don't quote me on this but I think there are around 150 240Z's registered in the UK of which 50 or so are on the road.

My guess would be the voltage regulator playing up.

Did you pull the splined end out of the diff ? If so when you put the shaft back in you need to push it back with a good sharp motion to lock in the split ring into the diff tho I can't see even without this done why you hav'nt enough room with the amount of "slide" available on the shaft.

Not sure about the "tremendous investment potential".

Unfortunatly no. It's the magnet I'm looking for. Thanks.

Thanks beandip, I might hold you to that.

Nissan dealerships in the UK would'nt know what I was talking about!

Are parts available for the 280zx electronic distributor in the US? There is very little here in the UK. I'm mainly after the internal magnet.