MarkDixon

My water pump leaks, but only every once in a while. How hard is it to replace? I don't like the sound of having my fan crash into my brand new radiator. I have a metal fan. I guess this is a good time to replace that too.

Thanks. I disconnected the battery before I even put my hands under the dash. It is amazing how many un-used wires are under there.

This is probably an easy one. I am trying to remove my Amp/fuel guage. The temp. guage came out easy. All I had to do was un-plug the pigtail and light wire and it was off. The fuel guage seems to have two additional leads connected to it. They are comming from a wire harness under the dash. Both have a right angle rubber nipple over them. How do I get these off? If I pry the rubber nipple back, I can see little brass nuts. Do I indo the nuts, or do these plugs simply pull off like the light does? Thanks, Mark

DK240, One hour re-build??? Hell it took me an hour to get the motor out of the plastic bag. Plus now that the motor is out, I'm gonna have to POR15 the inside of that cowl area. You mentioned you used dental floss to hold back the brushes on re-assymbly. I'm not sure how you got the motor out in the first place. I was able to loosen two 8mm nuts, but that only allowed me to take the bell housing off. Not the motor from the gear drive. Also does anyone know what thar screw on the bottom of the motor housing does? It is held in place by a nut. I took it out and the end of the screw has a plastic tip. I put it back, but loard knows if it is at the same depth as it was before.

I have the Sony 500watt Xplode as well. It works well. Good deal for the money. I have mine in the tire well of my 71' 240z

I'm very surprised no one has any advise on the subject yet. Why might my blower be blowing fuses and not air?

Whisper I am currently working on the same problem. Mine worked fine even the A/C worked. I had my frame rail replaced and now the A/C is broke, and no power to the blower. I did find an in line fuse under the dash on the pasanger side of the console that is blown. I replaced the fuse (20amp) and it sounded like the blower was going to turn on but the fuse blew. I know the switch is grounded because I was trying to make sense of all the wires haning behind the stereo opening and found a loose black one. I figured black should be connected to the body somewhere so I did just that. What do you know that turned my blower on. And as I said it wasnt long before I relized I could move the vent lever to the off position and I had A/C. But now, I need heat and I cant figure out why my blower won't work. I hate taking my car to other people to get work done. It never comes back working the same as it did going in. I will keep a watchful eye on your post. Maybe we will both benifit

Everybody has those parts. I bought mine from Tabco. http://www.tabcobodyparts.com/html/table_of_contents.htm MSA sells the www.zcarparts.com Victoria British sells them too. You should call MSA & VB and have them send you a catalog. 2/3rds of their stuff is not on the web site.

You may even notice the black plastic melted a little around the side poles for that fuse. That particular fuse always over heats. It's another one of those things you can count on for older Z-cars. Kinda like over heating in traffic and rust.

Check the 3rd fuse on the right. They sometimes will burn out on the ends under the silver metal caps. You won't see the filiment burned out, but it may still be bad. That third fuse will cause the dash and the tail lights to go out. Good luck.

I have a 71' 240z. My A/C and heater worked great, my blower worked after I found a loose black wire under the dash and bolted it to some metal. I took my car to get the frame rail replaced, which they did a good job on. Of course they had to remove the engine and A/C compressor. I didn't replace the freon in the A/C so I was unable to test that afterwords. But now my blower doesn't work. I checked the fuse, but other than that I don't know why it won't work now. Any ideas?

MSA has the replacement panel that goes there. www.zcarparts.com

This car must be near me because Balanced Performance in in North Georgia

There is a rear hatch piece for sale on Ebay now. I bought all of my replacement body panels from Tabco. If you do a search on this forum I'm sure you will find a link to their site.

My carpet had foam padding on the bottom too. I didn't have to glue anything either. Does your carpet cover the transmission tunnel? If so, you may need to glue there, I don't know. I stayed classic with the diamond vinyl on the tunnel. If you need the vinyl piece that goes on the inside rocker, under the scuff plate I have both sides. Brand new. The same ones they used on the Nissan rennovation Z-cars. Send me a PM if your interested. Mark

Hey guys thanks for all your responses. I finally got back in my garage tonight and cranked my car. I don't know what the sputtering was or the ping, but I didn't do a thing to the car and tonight it runs like a champ again. I think she's just got a bit of a temper every once and a while. Thanks again Mark

That is cool. I had a 240z that had one on the passenger side when I bought it. I thought it was nice looking, but as I remember you either had to (double) tape it to the dash, or screw, rivet or something to get it to stay on. Where do you get these now? Mark

Thanks guys, I have not checked all fuel related issues. I had my tank sandblasted, then I had my mechanic tune the car, adjust the valves, set the timming and adjust my carbs. This was about three weeks ago. Since then it has been running like a champ. This is why I decided to re-build the whole brake system. For some reason all of the sudden this starts happening. The Ping I think may be something physical. Like the A/C bracket or something. The sputtering has to be a fuel starvation problem. I will check to see if the filter in the carb bowl is cloged, fuel pump, lines, etc until I find the problem. I am hopefull it will be something very simple. Thanks for your help. Mark

The strange thin is that is a bran new fuel pump. I thought fuel starvation as well. That's why I replaced the fuel filter. Since I just had my tank cleaned the lines still had junk in them and this is just how it acted the first time I had to change the filter. I will be checking that tonight. Thanks,

Flooding may account for the back-fire, but why the ping? Also, I don't know why it would all of the sudden start flooding. It has been running like a champ. I had a major tune up a couple weeks ago.

please don't tell me I need an engine re-build. I was hoping to get new struts, bushings, repair rusted panels and a paint job before I needed to spend more money on the engine.

I noticed the last few times I drove my car, when I pull into the garage and turn it off I hear a loud ping. Almost like something metal is hitting my metal fan blade. I just replaced both calipers on the front, new pads, new rotors new bearings, everything. Bleed the brakes all the way around and didn't make three houses down the road before the car started sputtering and shuts off. I got it to start back and made it to my neighbors house and again sputter then shut off. Oh this time the car back-fires. I think through the carbs. Since I just had my tank blasted and I have already gone through 1 tank of gas and 1 fuel filter, I thought now is a great time to replace that fuel filter again. Of course outside in the dark. Oh yea, when I pulled the first hose off the old filter, there was a flash out of the hose, like quick fire, and I heard that ping. Got the filter on, got my car back to my garage, and as soon as I pull in, sputter, back-fire through the carbs, and off she went. I can let it sit for a few and it will crank and idle (purr like a kitten). Then it will sputter and shut off. What is happening to me???? By the way I have a 71' 240z. Up till now it has been running like a dream.

I have a set I will be installing in my 240z. My car is white exterior so I think white gauges will look natural. I have bought red bulbs to go behind. I have not yet installed them. For anyone that has done this, I would appreciate any instructions, tips or any help in doing so. I planned to paint my needles black, but the picture on page 1 with red needles looks pretty good to. What do you guys think?

Will do.... Thanks guys. I'm gonna fix this problem tonight. I may have to wrap that sucker in duct tape, but I will be driving it tomorrow, as it will be a warm day in Georgia.

I'm in the same boat as you cremmenga. I have replaced my frame rail from the radiator support all the way under the floor boards. I have panels for both rockers, both rear wheel arch, and a whole new(used) rear hatch end. The frame rail was Factory NOS I got a deal $250 The install cost about $2,000 (had to fabricate part of the wheel well to weld to) GT28r..... Unless you have a lot of money and time, buy a car with no rust in good working condition. If you buy a car with cancer, you will feel sorry for it. You will fall in love with it. You will eventually spend so much money on it, that you will quickly be past the point of no return. Although you will appreciate your car greatly when you are done.