MarkDixon

VictoriaBritish only has 2 row core replacement radiators. I think with A/C in my car I will need something with a bit more cooling power. I have seen 3 row core radiators before. Does anyone have experience with one of those?

I have a 71' 240z that has a working A/C. Of course the A/C kills the radiator. A 240z overheats well enough with out the added A/C. I have ordered a 4 core radiator from MotorSports, but they are back-ordered till they find a new supplier. I'm not sure how long that will take. My car is due to come back from my mechanics in a few weeks, and I need to get a new radiator before then. Any suggestions? Will a 3 core work just as well? Where should I buy a "new" radiator? Mark

My first car was a 73' 240Z. My father bought it in 1976. He drove it untill my older brother turned 16. My brother drove it for 3 years till I turned 16, then it was mine. It is real hard to get over the love of a 240Z when it is the car you learned how to drive with. Since that 73' 240z I have had 3 others, All 240z'. I bought another 73' 240 from my aunt. It was brown with tan interior. This car was in mint condition. 10 out of 10, right off the show room floor quality. I had it for about 4 months when a man ran a stop sign right in front of me and I hit him doing 65mph. I used the insurance money and bought a very good condition orange 72'. Over the years I sold the old 73' and then the 72'. Since then I owned a Nissan Pathfinder, 2000 Maxima, great car by the way. I have now bought a white 71' 240z I am in the process of restoring. I think I will keep this one till I die. Although, I know most people here look down on them, but I would really like to have a 250 GTO Kit car. Mark

I bought both rear wheel arches, one inner wheel, both rocker panels, and a lover fender from Tabco, and they shipped it to me for free within one week. I have not put them on the car yet, but I am impressed with the way they look. very solid looking parts.

I agree with all in my own way. The fact that this car is VIN# 490 should have nothing to do with your dicision to restore this car;;; If you think when you are done it will help you with the re-sale value. Believe me you will eventualy get to a point of no return on this car, that you have put more money into re-storing it than you will be able to sell it for. I too have a car with great history, which was in similar shape. I paid $800 for it on the East coast. I figured at least I could get $800 for the UN-cracked dash and perfect interior should I decide the RUST was to much to tackle. Of course in the process I have fallen in love with my car and no amount of money or time will stop me from restoring this to a point I feel I am proud of. I now have no intentions of selling the car. Most people would tell you; Buy a car for 4 or 5 thousand and start there, you will in the long run spend less to restore it. This may be true, but there is something to be said about taking a car like a 240Z from the grave yard and giving it life again. Also, I didn't have 4 or 5 thousand dollars at the time. I did have $800. Then a thousand here a thousand there, and so on, and so on. It all depends on what your plan is. I would say if you can restore this car, you will have a great story to tell and that low VIN number will greatly enhance the story. However it will not enhance the value, or sale value. Go into this project with that in mind and don't pay more than $500 to $700 for the car, but expext to invest thousands, many of them.

Thanks guys, I have refinished my steering wheel so I'm sur my problem is at the horn. I have not gotten around to cleaning this area, as no one sees it, and it has not much to do with making my car work. (i have spent long hours on carbs, breaks, and such) I will get up there and try these things. Thanks again, Mark

I have a 71' 240z and the horn works but it sounds very very muffeled. It only lasts for a few seconds, even if I continue to press on it. Do you think I should just replace the horns, or could it be something like the horn relay is bad? Thanks, Mark

Thanks guys. I believe you have answered my question. I will buy one today. I do have a few things on my Z I would like to know their purpose. I have a few wires hanging around under the dash that I wonder what they connect to, and If they were connected would my wipers work. I have an A/C unit in my car and thought it was just adding weight because it didn't work. One day I was pulling the broken radio out and saw a black wire hanging back there. I touched the wire to metal and what do you know... I have a good working A/C. And yes, I have bought a part off of Ebay that I thought I would never see again, only to find out I just paid twice what I could have bought if for somewhere else. Again, thanks for the input. Mark

wow!!!! when people have a nose that looks as bad as that hood, they have plastic surgery to remove it. I thought about re-painting my Z the original color, but now that I see this car I thing I will go with primer grey.

Just like Hls30 said, I have heard many people say that taking dry ice and breaking it into many small pieces and covering the tar mat is the best way to remove it. I have not tried it, but it makes sense. no mess because the ice evaporates and the tar mat will chip away in large pieces.

I was wondering if anyone has bought this Microfiche CD and if it is something that would be benificial to me. I have a 1971 240z and I doubt many parts with original Nissan part numbers will be available to me through my local dealer. If I am wrong please let me know. Also, if I am wrong, are the original Nissan parts going to be cheaper than buying from MSA or BV like them? I look forward to hearing from you, Mark

Hey Mike did you get my Private message???

No problem on the timing pointer. I can't drive the car till he gets done with it anyway. I hope he will have mine done next month. I am very anxious to get it back. I know it doesn't look like much on the outside right now, but if I can just drive it around, I will feel just as good as if it were in concourse condition. You know they say beauty is in the eye of the beholder.

I am near Helen Ga. Just north of Gainesville. I have not decided on who will do my paint job as of yet. I will have to wait till after the first of the year for that. I will probably have it done by someone local to me.

Whereabouts in Ga are you? I'm going to have my Z re-painted as well and am curious who you choose and how it all turns out.

My car is White with Black interior. E-Radatz does not do regular body work, but he does replace floor pans and certain body panel repairs. He is replacing a frame rail for me right now, as well as a brake job, clutch, and tune up.

First of all, I would get your car running before you do anything to it. That should be the cheapest part of your project. You should be able to do most of that type of stuff yourself. (rebuild the carbs, change points & plugs) If you can't get your car to run and you have a good bit of rust, I would question if this is a good project. Don't get me wrong, I'm all for restoring dead Z cars. Mine is in bad rust shape, but I love her and I am going to restore her no matter what. As for the paint, you don't need to strip your body down to bare metal just to get it painted. Unless you are going to take every nut and bolt off of the car. You need to check with the paint shop before you do your own prep work. Most shops will not want you to do the prep work. Surface rust happens within a few hours. If you sand down to metal and don't get it primed till weeks later, you will have rust on your car. Plus they will want to prime it with compatable primer to the paint they use. Again check with the paint shop. As for where to get your body shop work done, My car is at E-radatz in Kennasaw GA. I have not gotten mine back so I can't personally say how well I like their work, but I was recomended to them by the Georgia Z Club. Good luck with your project.

Kmack, I am very interested in your car. I will be leaving for Jamaica this weekend, and will be there til the 20th of July. I know poor me. I left my personal email previously. Feel free to contact me via that email, and when I get back into town we can discuss this further. Unless of course you have sold the car before then. Thanks, Mark

Kmack, I was finally able to open your gallery. Saw the pics. Great looking car. I would still like to speak with you about your car. Texas is a long way to come to inspect a car, unless I feel comfortable I will buy it when I get there. Please, Email me with any new pics you have or any more info you may have for me, and I will reply with my phone number. Thanks again, Mark

WOW Kmack, That seems like a very good price for what detailed work you have put into the car. I have a 71' 240 that I am about half way through all the stuff you went through. I may consider putting my 71' on the back burner. Can you email me some detailed pictures of your car? Please include interior and engine pics. I live in Georgia, but would be willing to travel to inspect and buy on the spot. my email is: thedixons@alltel.net Thanks, Mark

Hey man, That is a great looking car for $88 bucks.

I think this is a very solid looking car. $7,500 is a lot of money to spend on a car off of the internet. Me personaly, I would want to look over every inch of a car like that before I would buy it. But the thing that chaps my arse more than anything, is these guys that sell their Z's, and the first thing in their ad is how their wife is making them get rid of their car. I don't know about you guys but I married a wonderful woman who understands my passion for my Zcar, and would never make me get rid of it. No matter how long it sits in the garage waiting for the next repair, no matter how much of a money pit she believes it to be. She can't even drive a stick so she will never fully understand the bond one has with his 240Z. Anyway, good luck with your search for the right car. Mark

TheHelix112--- you posted "That is a damn nice looking zed. Get the flares not looking so bubbley and blending into the original lines and it'd be close to perfect for me." I am planning on doing much the same look to my 71'z I have the california rear spoiler, plan on putting street flares, a fiberglass air dam, I will however not use side skirts, and will keep the original bumpers. I have not done any fiberglass work before. What is your suggestion to smooth the "bubbley" and blend into the lines of the car. That was my thoughts exactly when I saw the picture, but don't know how to go about doing it. Thanks, Mark