Arne
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Everything posted by Arne
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IF I were interested in a rear spoiler for my car, I think that rather than try to reinvent the wheel, I'd be looking for something with a proven aerodynamic track record, like the rear BRE unit. -
And based on promises of money said to be in the mail, I'm going to extend my deadline to Oct. 31, maybe farther.
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Oh, if I need to go to eBay to sell off the unspoken for units, I will. I would do it much as you noted. Jerry, I'll send you a PM with the details.
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Yeah, I cover the neutral safety switch in my article.
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HLS30-27602 (4/71) had an E31.
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Carl, I'll add that some of the very late '71s appear to have come with that early E88 as well. My 7/71 car (engine L24-048366) came with an E88. It's never been off the block, so I can't confirm the chamber size or shape, but considering the build date I'm going to assume it has that rare earliest type E88. Both of my previous '71s had the E31, as noted.
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I'd rather avoid eBay if I can. I do now have permission from the maker to offer them a bit wider, as long as I still don't personally profit from them, which opens the possibility to offer them on other sites like hybridz.org once I have product in hand.
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Use the search function here, lots of info on this. One of the posts the search will pull up is the tech article (link below) I wrote on this subject a couple of years ago. My article doesn't address injection issues, but covers most of the rest. http://www.classiczcars.com/forums/showthread.php?t=21274
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Still more.
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More pictures.
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Pictures I was sent. Seller claims to be the third owner, and has maintenance records from the previous two owners.
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No relation to seller, haven't seen the car in person. Wife has forbidden me from acquiring more cars until I finish a couple of projects around the house. http://eugene.craigslist.org/cto/1429830134.html I have seen more pictures, fairly complete Early car, apparently around #12000 or so, probably 10/70. Fairly solid, some rust under the battery, don't know about the rest. Probably better than most any car at this price you'll find in the Rust Belt.
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Things are moving slower than I had hoped. Up to an even 50% today. I'm going to need to cut this stage off at some point, can't let it drag on indefinitely. But far enough along that I don't yet want to write this off and give up. Here's hoping more payments are already in the mail.
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Yup. Stephen's GTO was engineered to handle that kind of power. An S30? Not so much...
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Do you have the hose running from the block breather tube to the PCV valve in place?
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I just hope you don't find the poly bushings there in the M-bar to be too noisy. I've heard that complaint before.
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Today brings us to 48%. Hoping to get enough by the end of the week to make the move. I don't want to let all these checks hang out in limbo too long.
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OK, just curious. I suspect those old red part numbers were designed for closer to stock spring rates, but have never been certain. Been considering a set for use with my Euro Stage 1 springs (about 110-120 lbs. rate, IIRC) instead of the KYBs I now use.
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John, any idea what the appropriate spring rates were for the old Koni 82R-1716/82R-1717 inserts? Did they also just adjust rebound, and leave compression alone? Or how about the 86-1811/1812 set?
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45% today. Checks reported as already in the mail should bring us past 50%. Close, but not quite there yet...
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I got the one in the picture (OE Nissan) from MSA back in 2006. Part #15-6200 which appears to be NLA. That was way back before I knew how many parts my local dealer could still provide. The Nissan number is 11826-N3300 which also appears to be NLA. If you use a non-Nissan replacement, make sure the hose is fuel/oil rated.
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I'm running it in an XP Pro virtual machine on a Mac. No CPU hogging issues at all.
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Factory hubcaps for certain 810s, I believe.
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At 42% today and still counting.
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Well, the answer to that isn't as cut and dried as it seems like it should be. Today's "modern" wire wheels typically have some sort of sealant in the drop center of the rim to allow you to use tubeless tires. This is pretty much a good thing, as tubeless is a huge improvement over tubes.But the sealant is there to seal the air chamber where all the spoke nipples go. So the spoke nipple heads are sealed to the rim, making it impossible to adjust the spoke tension, even if it should be necessary. No way to adjust them at all, turning the nipple will damage the sealant. The fact that you can not adjust them, doesn't mean that they will never need it. In fact my experience after years in that industry has been that any wire wheel in normal use will be out of true after a few years. While the look of the chrome and the flash is great, I would never recommend wire wheels for a car that is going to be driven much, especially driven in the manner that Zs encourage.
