Arne

Many people diss the round port heads automatically, but IMO for a street motor the shape of the chamber and size of the valves is probably more important than the shape of the exhaust ports. A good P79 should be a fine street head, has the best factory chamber design (shared with the P90). Any way you can have an expert assess it before buying it?

At the risk of doing something I will soon regret, I'm going to proceed with the Bolder Tint project. Here are the final details. Minimum order is 60 tints. We currently have about 40 spoken for. Based on that, plus the hope that I will be able to sell off the excess in a reasonable time, I'm willing to put up the rest of the money to get the order built. I hope I'm not making a several hundred dollar mistake... In an effort to simplify bookkeeping, I have decided to average out the freight costs and do all orders to the USA at a fixed price of $35 each. (You Canadian buyers, I will be contacting you shortly with your special details.) No quantity discounts, sorry. My plan is this - now is the time to send your check or money order. But please note!! If you pay by money order, please keep the receipt, as I won't cash any until I get payments for close to 40 units. At that point, I will personally pay the difference to get the order of 60 made. But if we don't get the 40 or so paid for in a reasonable amount of time, I will return all checks and money orders. I'd really like to have those 40 paid for by Oct. 20 or so to make this happen. I don't want to let this hang out indefinitely. So prompt payment is going to be a key to making it work. Please print out and include the order form linked here, which also has my address on it. It will help me with keeping track of the whole deal. http://1971.240z.home.comcast.net/temp/CZCC-BT-USA.pdf

This may sound odd coming from a guy who is dedicated to period-correct looks on his own Z, but I think it could work. Especially on a bumper-less Z with the sidemarkers and bumper depression shaved.

Shoot me a message when you get closer. There's at least one accountant posting at the University of Oregon (Eugene) right now.

Where in Oregon are you going to end up?

I think it's a 4 speed. Reverse is very hard to select when the transmission is rolling around loose on the floor.

Last call for comments or getting in/out or whatever. I'm going to make a decision on whether I can proceed on this over the next few days.

Absolutely. A firm and tight front end with worn, soft rear suspension will handle horribly. Do the rear before you make any further decisions.Good job on what you've done so far!

Have you adjusted the master cylinder pushrod?

Problem with selling stock seats is that there's not a lot of demand, and they are expensive to ship, due to size. When you consider that $400 will buy new, OE-style vinyl and foam, and shipping them can easily be $50 or often more, used seats are are a hard sell at any price unless you can find a buyer locally.

Don, I bought one of those for my car a couple of years ago. After seeing it and using it, I would not hesitate to use a generic replacement. That hose would be simple to replicate using normal fuel-rated hose.

On the other hand, many of us can't qualify for Hagerty or other specialty insurance. It has been mentioned above that you can't use the car for commuting and such, but it is a bit more restrictive than that. The covered collectible car must be an extra car. You must have more cars/trucks than licensed drivers in the household. In my case, I have three drivers, but only three cars and a motorcycle (which doesn't count for this). Doesn't matter that my wife commutes by bicycle year-round and that I virtually always have another car available. Since the number of cars is the same as the number of drivers, I don't qualify.

Last year I stripped my 240Z as far as I could while still having it drivable. Most of the interior except the dash and the driver's seat, all glass and everything from the outside of the car. I had them paint the whole car including the underside of the tailgate, all door and hatch jambs. Since I was staying with the factory color, I did not have the interior or the engine compartment painted. My car has/had no rust, no significant previous repairs to re-do, and only minor door dings to be corrected. I did not ask for (nor receive) a "show-quality" job. I drive my car frequently, and it will acquire rock chips and other flaws as time goes on, so painting to "show standards" would be a total waste. What I asked for (and got) was a very nice paint job suitable for everyday use. It looks great, but a few flaws can be seen if you know where to look. By the time it was all said and done (new windshield, complete new weatherstrip and other rubber bits, etc.) I paid about $5000 while doing the disassembly and reassembly myself. Any rust or repair work yours needs, or any prep and reassembly you don't do yourself will add considerably to that.

Any color change that is not done "completely" will significantly reduce the value for many Z enthusiasts. And doing it "completely" means stripping the car to a bare body shell so that it can be painted inside and out. That's an expensive paint job. My advice would be to either live with the color you find, or if you truly can't live with it wait for a color you can stand.

I'm still crunching numbers, trying to figure out a way to make it happen. I'm almost certain that we're going to have to write off the 280-Z possibility, so I'll be contacting the few 280-Z requesters to see whether they want to move to DATSUN or opt out. If we can get close I might be able to cover a few of the unsold ones myself (most likely DATSUN) to continue to sell off over time. Another option to help with that effort would be to add a buck or two to the unit price to help cover the excess. So I haven't quite given up yet, and am still scheming...

We've been in touch with Hybridz on this, and the way we have to do it (pre-ordering a product that doesn't actually yet exist) doesn't meet Hybridz Group Buy requirements. So we can't post there.

Well, the whole thing appears to be unraveling. Now that I am asking for a firmer commitment prior to the money being sent, the interested parties are far fewer. Apparently its pretty easy to vote in a poll and say, "yeah, I'd like some of that." But as we approach the money part, it appears that a number of the previous voters are unwilling to commit. No, I don't plan to name names, but I am disappointed in how this is unfolding. Here's where we stand at this point. First, unless some miracle happens, there won't be any 280-Z tints as I've only got commitments for a total of 3, and need 20. Without including the 280-Z, we're still at least 15 units shy of the reduced overall minimum (60 pieces), and even the DATSUN tints are only up to 10 confirmed. So we still need an additional 15, and at least 8-10 of those need to be for DATSUN. Looks like quite a stretch, at this point. I'm sorry, and very disappointed, people. I really wanted to make this work. But I honestly don't think it's likely to happen. Of course, it's not to late to get in, even if you didn't vote in the original poll. Just send me a PM and we can put your request in my spreadsheet.

I've had good luck with the three-piece Hooker gasket set. They aren't paper, but are more normal laminated gaskets. Only for square port heads. http://www.summitracing.com/parts/HOK-10852HKR/ Info from Hooker's site: http://www.holley.com/10852HKR.asp

This may be a new record, you have revived an almost 6 year old thread! Of the original posters above, at least one is deceased (RIP, Carl) and only one of the rest still visits here at all! Please check the dates on the threads you read to make certain that a reply is appropriate. Edit: E, you were more polite than I was...

I corrected the date in the thread title to match the flyer.

I've bought parts from Bad Dog in the past, but not frame rails. The owner is a member here, and he was great to deal with.

The coolant passage you speak of only runs near the carbs, never gets close to the head. I suspect a cracked head also.

This one is much more recent and should be getting close to road-ready. http://www.classiczcars.com/forums/showthread.php?t=34013

Still need about half of the people who have previously indicated a desire to reply to the second phase.

Those are the later style, not nearly as valuable as the early style. As a guess, maybe $200 at the very most.