Arne
Member
-
Joined
-
Last visited
Everything posted by Arne
-
Chris, I don't know that I'd call it rare, but it is original. If your plans for the car include a significant number of modifications, go with what ever color you want. If you plan to keep it mostly stock, I'd stay with the factory color. The other thing to consider is that doing a color change correctly requires stripping the car to a mostly bare shell, and adds considerable expense to the paint job. Staying with 112 may allow you to not have to paint the shell inside as well. Where in Oregon do you live? -
What you did is the traditional method - that even I (with years of SU experience, both Japanese and British) have problems with. Using the clear tube I was able to get them both correct in short order.
-
Well, if the supplier can make 'DATSUN' we are about half-way there. We're going to need a higher percentage of '280-Z' votes in the second half, but both '240-Z' and 'DATSUN' will make the 20 piece minimum. Not looking good for '260-Z' though.
-
The fuel pump cam bolts to the end of cam. It can be added to any cam. More to the point is that many later L28 heads don't have the hole for the pump machined into the head. That can be corrected, but it makes me wonder what head you have on the car. What is the head casting number?
-
How are you measuring the float level? I suspect that is the problem. I know from personal experience that what seems like 12mm when you have the float cover removed does not always measure correct when it's all re-installed. To verify my levels, I generally put a clear vinyl tube on the bottom float nipple (instead of the normal tube to the bottom nozzle). Then I remove the power to the coil and crank the engine over a couple of times to fill the float bowl. (If you have an electric pump, just hot wire it for a couple of seconds.) You will now be able to see how high the fuel sits in the float bowl under operating conditions. The fuel should be 23-25 mm below the top of the float bowl when measured this way.
-
I'd still recommend checking the odometer accuracy first. If the odometer is correct, no need to mess with the gear.
-
Folks, everyone is missing the obvious answer here. These old mechanical speedos tend to become inaccurate as they get old. What we have here would seem to be a textbook case. The internal clock-spring in the speedo weakens over time, so the speedo starts reading fast. To confirm, check the accuracy of the odometer over a true measured 5 mile stretch. If the odometer is fairly close, then the speedo itself is the issue, not the gearing, tires or such.
-
The front carb's float level is still too low. Correctly setting the level can be tricky for the inexperienced. You need to bring it up another 3-4 mm, as a WAG.
-
That's me too. Driving them is what it's all about for me. August has been a busy month for my car, two different shows in the Portland area, and a reunion in Klamath Falls. call it about 900 miles, all told.
-
As far as I know, the only type-face still available is the block font.
-
Last call?
-
Joe, a 4.3 is dang low ratio for street use, especially with the shorter profile tires people often use these days, and very much so without a 5 speed. With a 4 speed you're going to be turning some pretty significant revs on the highway with that diff. Exactly how many depends on the tire size. A stock 240Z has an overall ratio in third gear of 4.77 (1.42 x 3.36). So 4th gear with a 4.3 is going to be in the same ballpark as 3rd in a car with stock gearing. Top speed of maybe 100 at redline....
-
Interesting! That's probably the first documented "Plus 1" tire and wheel package for an early Datsun. The 15x5.5 aluminum American Racing LeMans rims with "Michelin 185VR15" tires (almost certainly Michelin 185/70VR15 XWX as fitted on similar vintage 911S) would have been just a touch taller than the original 175-14.
-
Still a few votes being added now and then, so I'm going to bump this to make certain that most people have seen it and had a chance.
-
In the USA, the 260Z was one year only ('74) and alloys were not offered from the factory. I believe that you could order them from the parts department, but they were so expensive compared to aftermarket rims that almost no one did. They were quite rare here in the states prior to being a factory option on the '77-78 280Z.
-
Yup. That's the emergency bypass for the seat belt interlock system. If the seat sensors failed and you couldn't start the car, pressing that button would bypass the interlock for a short time - maybe only one crank, I can't recall for sure.
-
I have to admit, it's not looking especially good for the 100 at this point. I was afraid this might be the case...
-
The ebay ones are 14x7 Appliance Wire Mags. I have the narrower 6" version on my 240Z. The 14x7 had a 3/8" negative offset, very similar to the 14x7 Konigs of today. Will fit OK, but watch for clearance issues up front if the car has the stock front valance. If you have an airdam, you'll probably be OK. The wider size is more sensitive to balance and vibration too. That set is also overpriced, in my opinion. Possibly a bit high even at the opening bid, but with an even higher reserve and $650 BIN? Too much. If you like them, I can possibly set you up with a set of the 14x6 for considerably less, given a bit of time.
-
I've been looking at a pair of these. I like the more vintage style of the aircraft type buckle. http://www.seatbeltsplus.com/mm5/merchant.mvc?Screen=PROD&Store_Code=sbp&Product_Code=WSCH300&Category_Code=3-Point-Retractable-Seat-Belts They sell a hardware kit to go with them, if needed. They can do this because our seatbelt bolts are not metric, as the US regulations of the day included the requirement that manufacturers use only bolts that met their specifications. And in a fit of self-centered Americanism, the specs called for 5/8" (non-metric) Grade 8 bolts. So the seatbelt bolt in a 240Z are essentially the same as those used in a similar age Ford, VW, MG or whatever.
-
My car thanks you!
-
Stock wheels for a 260Z were steel with hubcaps, no aluminum came from the factory. Pictures and the size of the set off the 260Z would help me decide how to advise you.
-
Jim, please vote in the poll at the top of this thread. Or let me know which logo you are interested in.We've passed the first milestone - we have the minimum number required for the "240-Z" logo. I'm a bit surprised that there haven't been more 280-Z votes.
-
Outstanding, Julio!! Good work!
-
Well, the original deal was that they all had to be sold through the club. What a club member does with any he/she has purchased after that is beyond my control.
-
Possibly, except the manufacturer is not interested is making any for a profit-oriented venture. He says the original idea was a car club project, and that's all he's interested in doing now.Plus I'm not sure that they'd sell for enough more than $35 to make it worth the effort. In fact, I'm not certain we can find buyers for 100 even at this price. We'll see.