Arne

No surprise, it looks like "240-Z" will be the most popular. Remember that in addition to the 100+ total, we will need a minimum of 20 for any one logo. Currently only "240-Z" shows that kind of life. And remember that "DATSUN" might not be available at all, even if we can get to the 20 minimum.

Mine isn't for sale either, which is why I won't even jokingly state a price when asked. If they want my car that bad, it's up to them to come up with an offer that will convince me to sell. Not the other way around.

I'm not da man until we can get the 100 minimum spoken for....

Too big. Not even certain about the "DATSUN" choice, as we can't remember if he ever did a plain DATSUN for S30s. Trucks, yes, but can't remember about S30s.

Who would be interested in a Bolder Tint? If you are older than 40, you remember them. Mirrored mylar with block-letter logos that stuck to the inside of your windshield, like so: After several years of looking, I have made a breakthrough. I have located and contacted the original manufacturer of the Bolder Tint brand. While the company no longer does automotive products, he does still have the original dies for the S30 windshield, and is willing to do a batch for us. These would be the real thing - true Bolder Tints by the original maker, not replicas. Here's the ground rules, and where we stand on this: 1.) This would be an exclusive to CZCC. The manufacturer wants it to be a club-related project. No direct offers would be posted on other Z sites. 2.) Minimum order is 100 units. 3.) The 100 units do not all have to be the same logo, but there would be a minimum of 20 units per logo. Logos available would probably include "240-Z" (as pictured above) and "280-Z". If we can get 20 or more commitments on either of "260-Z" and/or "DATSUN" those may be possible as well. 4.) Estimated price per unit would be $30-35 each, including shipping within the USA. Perhaps a small break for multiples to the same address, although any break may not be much, as each unit will come pre-packaged with instructions in its own mailing tube. So multiple shipping savings may be small. 5.) At prices in that range, I should be able to break even, or perhaps there may be a buck or two "profit" over my costs. If so, any amount over and above true cost and shipping will be donated to CZCC. There will not be any personal profit for the facilitator (me). The plan is this - We'll start with this poll, to try to determine demand. Don't send money yet. If the demand is such that we feel comfortable with the possibility of selling at least 100, the next step would be to accept pre-paid pre-orders. Once enough pre-orders come in that I am certain that costs would be covered, I will order the units, and then shortly begin shipping them out. If it breaks down before the parts are ordered, refunds for pre-paid orders will be given. So here's step 1 - the poll. I've set this up to allow people to vote for more than one choice, so vote for as many as apply. This poll is not a firm committment to buy. But please don't vote if you aren't fairly certain, as we need a pretty accurate count to proceed to the next step.

I've had a couple of offers in the upper teens in the past year already. Got a couple of business cards on file now. So high teens at least should be no problem.

Here you go. Logo in all the rims, and also at the bottom of the ad.

Trust me, it's an A, not a D. I can't find any pictures of the boxes right now, but they would show the A logo.

Not the Datsun logo you are looking for, but here's a few choices: http://www.thezstore.com/page/TZS/PROD/LPF/50-1199 Note that they do offer one with the Datsun script off the rear decklid, as well as the model logos and just the classic 'Z' logo.

I saw one of the old "Do It In A Datsun" plate frames a while back, went for $60...

Try to build a car even close to that nice for the high teens. Damn hard to do. Mine isn't that original anymore, and has 3 times the mileage. No way I'd sell mine for less than very high teens, if that low.

That's always been the trouble, no one has (to my knowledge) done any documented testing. It's all just hearsay. Some day someone needs to buck up and do this. Same car, same carbs, same everything except the manifolds. Dyno runs for each would be the best way to prove or disprove.

I have some second-hand impressions, but have never ridden in one so equipped, so anything I'd say would be sheer conjecture.

The Monza #88-1226 for 75-78 280Z is still listed as current on the Pacesetter website. So I suspect that BD is just out of stock at present. http://www.pacesetterexhaust.com/monza.php

Datsuns and other imports are welcomed at the Portland Roadster Show. Lots of big dollar hot rods and muscle cars, but the Datsuns still do oK. http://www.classiczcars.com/forums/showthread.php?t=25170

Guys, posts like these really belong in the Product Reviews section.http://www.classiczcars.com/reviews/showproduct.php?product=12&cat=7

I moved this thread into the ZX area, and corrected the title.

No. Fusible link is all or nothing. Won't repair itself temporarily after charging the battery. Sounds like a short somewhere in the wiring is draining the battery overnight.

17 digit VINs with a standardized format were required in the USA starting in 1981. Before that, it was manufacturer's choice.

24012-E4602 is listed as correct for 1-71 through 12-71 manual transmission cars. Offhand, I can't think of any significant wiring changes under the hood at that point, so if the connectors match I suspect it will work.

My old research says that those two harness sub-numbers were used for manual transmission cars from 2-70 through 9-70 (bundled under 24013-E4601), and also for 10-70 through 12-70 (bundled under 24013-E4602), so I would call them correct for your car. Here's the thread where I went through all this with a previous car: http://www.classiczcars.com/forums/showthread.php?t=19793

In most cases, the screws should be able to pass through the holes in the marker plate without contacting the metal. But that can be tricky on some cars. Some users have slightly enlarged the holes in the backing plate to make certain the screws miss the metal. One user even slipped a bit of shrink-tube over the screw to prevent this. 12746 was a yellow automatic, and originally sold in Montana, not that far from you.

The new sidemarker adapter will affect both park and blinkers on that side.

I'd guess that the left front side marker has a ground problem. No metal parts of the sidemarker can contact the fender. Try removing the sidemarker from the fender and just let it hang by the wires, and see if that works. If it does, when you put it back make certain to keep the metal isolated.

Euro springs don't lower the car, they actually raise it unless you cut them down significantly. Both Koni and the adjustable Tokico Illuminas are good shocks, but neither one is particularly known for giving a good ride. My GR2s are fine, matched with the cutdown Euro springs. But you are right in one way, KYBs are not designed to use on cars that have been lowered significantly.Unless they've changed radically in the past few years, Gabriel would be the equal of the KYBs, if even that good.