Arne

Good question, Jim. The new forum software now hides the member number quite thoroughly. As Admin, I can look it up in the database, and yours is 21452. But I don't think I can do that as a routine thing for all users. It might get time-consuming!

108mm, or 4.25".

I always used the blue factory filters. Much nicer looking than any of the aftermarket filters. Especially Fram orange...

No other stem works and still doesn't stick way out, trust me, I tried. But the rubber seal where the Appliance stem clamps to the rim is very standard. Any tire shop should have them available. They use the same rubber grommets as most common chrome bolt-in stems.

Depends. Those slot mags were available back in the day in widths from 5.5" to 7".

It's a nice option. Several of the Porsche guys have home-built something similar. My Alternative to a Rotisserie - Pelican Parts Technical BBS

Carl is correct, the Euros need cut down for any insert type in US strut housings. As noted above for non-gas, and about another 1/2 coil each to gas charged. I used them with both, and posted in bits and spurts, and so picking info from my comments can be hard to follow at times, depending on when I posted and how far along the trail to the final config I was at the time. Here's the summary of the various ways I tried mine: Euro springs with US-spec strut housings. • Un-cut with non-gas inserts - Raised car about 3/4" to maybe 1" over factory stock spec • Cut 1.5 coils F, 1.25 R with non-gas (NOS Mulholland) - Raised car 1/8" F, 1/4" R over factory stock spec • Cut 1.5 F, 1.25 R with gas (KYB GR-2) - Raised car 3/4" F, 7/8" R over factory stock spec • Cut 2 F, 1.75 R with gas (KYB GR-2) - Car sat at factory spec both ends (± 1/4" or so) For reference, un-cut, un-sagged stock US springs: • With non-gas (NOS Mulholland) - stock height • With gas (KYB GR-2) - Raised car about 5/8" both front and rear Recommendation: If you plan to cut springs, go conservative, and take good notes. It's better to need to cut another 1/4 coil than to have gone too far. I had mine out and trimmed them several times before I got what I wanted (or could live with). Hack saw works, but I used carbide cutoff wheels on a small hand-held Dremel. Much quicker, but still minimal heat build-up.

You're pretty much correct on the oil issue. It is not necessary for the new cartridges. But it doesn't harm anything either. You don't need much if you use it, maybe a couple of teaspoons or so.

No. Originals were not sealed cartridges. They were damper rods in tubes, and the entire strut tube was filled with oil. FWIW, rear struts can easily be changed w/o removing the spindle pins. I always did mine that way. You'll need to find someone who has a set they aren't using. I know that several people bought more than one set when they were available. Linear. Yes. True. Yes. Yes. They raised my car approx 15mm (5/8").

Brad Penn is from the former Kendall Oil plant. Story goes that when Kendall was purchased by Exxon-Mobil, they sold this one refinery and the original Kendall GT-1 formula to one of their long-time engineers. The Kendall name went to Exxon-Mobil, but in general, Brad Penn is the old Kendall GT-1 formula, well-fortified with ZDDP. It is by far the favored oil in the USA by owners of air-cooled Porsches. (At $5-10k or more for a full rebuild of a 911 motor, you don't take too many chances with sub-standard oil.) Valvoline VR-1 is considered acceptable too. For full synthetics, some people run Mobil 1 V-twin (designed for Harleys) as it also contains good amounts of ZDDP. Some of the high-ZDDP oils are only available in thicker viscosities, which may be fine for my 911, but not as good in an L-series Z engine. I used to use 10W-30 year-round in the 240Z. Check the formulas carefully, as that is not always the case anymore. Many modern diesels now have catalytic converters and so ZDDP is now being phased out of diesel oil as well. There are now (I've been told) two different formulas for Shell Rotella, for example. As time goes on, I suspect the only oils that will contain reasonable amounts of ZDDP will be categorized as racing oils.

Libres or a period clone. Definitely vintage, worth keeping if they can be picked up cheaply enough.

Beautiful, ollie. A car to be very proud of.

But do remember that even if everything is new and good, it won't be all that powerful. It's worth noting that the correct name for it is not "emergency" or "hand" brake, but "parking brake". It was designed for use when parked. Just that, nothing more.

A common perception. They may have been dealer-installed, but every dealer used different choices, and none are truly "original". Better to call them "period-correct". I like period-correct wheels on these cars, but if you are looking to install tires with any performance capability, the 14" stock or dealer-installed wheels won't allow that. There aren't any performance street 14" tires left, no one makes them anymore.

Mesh wheels are not original. You could have the wheels you have powder-coated if you like, and if you can live with the tire size limitations they may impose. If you powder-coat them, you will want to remove all the coating from the rear mounting surface and lug nut seats before putting them on the car. Failing to do so could cause the lug nuts to come loose while driving.

I suspect that one of the two bolt patterns drilled into those wheels is probably correct for a Z, bit the offset is WAY wrong. You'd need 40-45mm spacers to make those fit at all.

Devin, it's also worth noting that if you should get a set of tail lights with the amber blinker, you would also have to do some wiring changes, as the US cars with red lower sections used those sections as additional brake lights as well, and I doubt they'd like to sign off on amber brake lights. I'd definitely try hard to get them to approve the red lights like Terje did with my former car.

I first met E in person in June '05 at Canby. I had bought my first (yellow) Z the previous Fall, and that was my first Datsun gathering. By that time, he had already given me some great advice here on CZCC that probably saved me a ton of money and time. E was easy to talk to, even if you didn't know him. Obviously, lots of Datsun knowledge, both Zs and Roadsters. Not all that much of a mechanic, he was a whiz at body, paint and interior work. And more than happy to share and help. He and I (mostly he) installed my headliner after I had replaced the roof skin on my car, for example. I believe he also painted Gary's yellow car in Gary's garage. Since E and the Portland area people were 100+ miles away, we didn't get together in person all that often, maybe 2-3 times a year. But we would correspond by email or phone a fair amount. E was 56 (6 months older than me), and had been ill for some time. He never seemed to let it get him down, always had a good attitude, which we all know is damned hard when you don't feel good. I actually thought he sounded pretty good the last time we talked on the phone, so this was a bit of a shock. Godspeed, Enriqué! You will be missed.

Jack and wheel chocks were original, but not the fire extinguisher.

try now, Steve.

I've said it before, but if I'm rebuilding an engine, I don't want to buy some kit where the parts were selected by someone else. You don't know what you are getting. Who made the gaskets? The bearing shells or rings? No, when I rebuild I want to select all my own parts. The convenience of buying a single kit does not out-weigh my need to select the best parts for my needs.

So I'm supposed to pay a for-profit company to have my car "certified" as a survivor? I see no benefit to this process to anyone beyond the guy who got paid. I can't imagine that the resale value of my car would be any greater with this certification. I see it as an answer to a question that no one is asking. Those who are most concerned with the "survivor-ness" of a 240Z—hard-core Datsun enthusiast/collectors—are already able to determine whether a car is restored, refreshed or is a survivor.

Yes, the Fondmetals are rare. And... let's just say that they are an acquired taste.

Matching numbers can either add value, make for an easier sale, or both—provided the car is essentially stock and in very good condition. They don't add much for a modified car. They may make for a quicker sale on a restoration project.

The Pontiac color is close, but not exact. If you want to get fussy, the paints from CDM or Banzai are the right stuff.