Arne

With the right workspace and tools, and assuming the other engine was properly prepped and ready to run, should be no more than an easy afternoon. I could easily see myself swapping back and forth for the right reasons.

I hear you. I haven't touched anything under the hood of our '10 Golf TDI. Not even the oil changes. It just doesn't look like any fun. And before the Golf I can count on two fingers how many times in the past 35 years I've let ANYONE besides myself work on one of my cars.

The GM mount changes the angle of the diff to one that is more driveline-friendly to the transmissions used with V8 swaps. If you are staying with the Nissan transmission, you will be better off going the bump stop method.

I don't think RPM is a significant factor - you need to maximize torque converter lockup. On an early, non-electronic automatic, that is difficult to control manually. I suspect the greatest benefit to fuel economy is to just drive it gently, which it sounds like you already do.

I agree with the lack of performance tires in all 14" sizes, actually. But in all honesty, many people don't push these old cars anywhere near hard enough to need a true "performance" tire. The reality is that most of today's mini-van tires are better performing than most of these cars can use. And they are all better than what the cars came with new.

The above two owners with no problems have different situations than the original poster. Big bumper cars (late-260Z and 280Z) that have not been lowered sit higher than a stock 240Z, and aftermarket airdams have much more clearance at the tight spot than stock valances. I STRONGLY recommend checking your clearance closely prior to buying different size tires. For this reason, I do not recommend buying your first set of a new size mail order, but from a local dealer where you can test fit them.

On a lowered 240Z with a stock valance (with or without spook, it matters not), I would expect rubbing when turning at the valance with the 225/60 for sure. Quite possibly with the 205/70 also, due to the taller height. I recall one of the club members bought a Series 1 with 14x6 Appliance slots (same offset as the mesh) that had rubbing problems (catching the edge of the valance) with 215/60-14s, which are shorter height. I know that the clearance on my car (only lowered in front 1/2" or less) was tight with the 195/70s. Side note - when checking clearance on a 240Z, make sure you check the right front for certain. The right side always seems to have less clearance. If you are going to have a problem, expect to see it there.

I grew up reading my dad's R&Ts in the '60s and '70s. Subscribed on my own as soon as I moved out on my own in '76. Was a subscriber for over 30 years, although I waffled on canceling for at least the last 5. Haven't missed it, as CM and S&E suit my interests better.

Steve & Jeff have it pegged. The market for something as narrow-focus as a Z/Datsun/Nissan magazine is too small to support one in the Internet Era. Do I like it? No. But there aren't enough paying subscribers to support the cost to publish, and advertisers won't pay to be in a mag that has low circulation numbers. I cancelled my R&T several years ago, when they stopped doing real-world relevant stuff. I do still get Classic Motorsport, as well as Hemmings Sports and Exotic, as they still scratch my itch better.

VAGCOM (now VCDS) is a great tool for customizing the VW systems. I've made several changes to the controllers on our Golf.

The vents were part of the flow-thru ventilation, not the fuel system. No hazard at all.

As I recall from the days when I was futzing with the repro Nissan Euro springs, the stock spring rates were somewhere around 110 lbs. or so. The rates weren't all that different front and rear, but one end was longer than the other. So at close to 200 lbs, you should be in the same ballpark as many other performance oriented springs. Seems like the Arizona Z springs were around 200, too.

Seems to be OK now.

Have you got a 5 speed behind your 2.7, Julio?

Not at all likely. But as I've said before, never say never. Who knows what strange opportunity might kick in my front door?

I tried the app when I had an Android phone, the version in use then was not especially useful, the mobile-friendly web interface was better. Now that I use an iPhone, I just enter it all on the web.

Rather than let these threads go on forever as they do in some other forums, I thought I'd start new ones for separate generations for the New Year. Use these threads for short, Twitter-like posts, things that may not be worth their own thread. Since only the S30 threads got any use over the past couple of years, I've only created this one thread this year for all Zs. Enjoy, and let's keep each other involved!

I've been doing Fuelly since mid-2010. Here's the page from my former 240z: http://www.fuelly.com/driver/aberglund/240z

This is already an issue on the stock manifolds for SUs. It has always seemed to me that #2 and #5 don't get as much mixture. If you can't improve the manifold distribution, I don't know that it'd be worth the effort.As for the 1 vs. 3 tuning circuits, I'm with John. The "single" circuit of the SU is infinitely variable throughout its range. It does take a bit of study working through the interrelations between needles, nozzles, damper springs and oil choices, but with some effort you should be able to duplicate anything you could get from the DCOE. And if more performance isn't the goal, then the baseline 4-screw SUs from the '70-71 240Z give you a really good base tune anyway. Is "more" tunability really needed? A set of roundtop SUs on the later flattop manifolds look like a really good all-purpose street setup to me.

Brad Penn is one of the most popular oils in the air-cooled Porsche world. I like that it is available in more viscosities than many of the other high ZDDP oils.

I can't imagine living some place where I could not enjoy my hobby all year around. I'm sorry for you. I think I'll go for a long drive this weekend in honor of all of you who have to put your cars away for the winter.

They won't be cheap. but might be worth a call.http://www.akhwheels.com/pages/showMisc.php?pk=273

You don't need much, a couple of tablespoons is fine. Any light oil or ATF will do the job.

Ironically, Pre (as he was known) died on May 30, 1975 when he rolled his MGB roadster on Skyline Blvd in Eugene, Oregon. Looks like his Z faired better.

Chris, when looked at logically and rationally, you are correct. The problem is (at the risk of going Vulcan on you), humans for the most part are neither logical nor rational. They are generally emotional and prejudiced creatures. No amount of logic will eliminate emotion and prejudice. That being the case, why provoke those feelings (even if it is just in a small minority) when it is not necessary to do so? The logo of a car website - IMHO - does not NEED to use an image that some few will find offensive. Seems like common courtesy in that case to avoid it if possible. After all, if you have a friend who you know is terribly arachnophobic, you probably would think twice before inviting him over to see your new pet tarantula. So why use a club logo that some members find offensive? I will admit here that I personally don't have a problem with it. But I am sensitive to those that do, and would probably not use it if I were the one making the decision. That said - It's Mike's ballgame, and his decision is the one that counts.