Arne

Don't know how long mine is, but the curve of yours looks right to me, or maybe even a touch flatter than mine. Here's a picture from prior to paint of mine that shows the curve. Note the joint between the center and the corner piece. Edit: Oh, I see what you are saying now. I'll have to wait until I get home tonight to measure mine. Since yours has the holes in it, I figured it was a euro-valance, but I wouldn't have thought that it would be any wider than the US valance.

The actual ignition switch (the small white electrical part) is still available new, and is relatively affordable. Not worth the time and shipping costs both ways for Dave to tear into. Seems like you can get them brand new for $25-30 or so. Fit '70-83 all.

Same is true coming from the South. Go past the first Canby exit, get off at the first exit after the Northbound rest area and flip around to the Southbound rest area.Sure, other Datsuns are welcome, but they have to get at the end of the line!!

Here's the screen shot from the parts book. Doesn't say where the third line goes, but it IS factory, and correct for '74 260Zs.

I think the top line in geezer's pics was for something else. Note how the end near the fuel pump appears to go somewhere else, not to the pump. Some sort of vent tube, perhaps? Certainly appears to be factory built to me.

Looks like a Clifford. Search for Clifford headers and you'll find a few other pictures.

Same here. It fits fine.

5 weeks, guys. Four full weekends. Your cars need you...

Factory alloy wheels from an '82 200SX, part of the "Sport Group" option package (wheels and sunroof, some "Sport Group"!). May have been available on other models in other parts of the world. But it is unlikely that this style was in production early enough to be offered on 240Zs in France, as the caption of that one gallery picture notes the French owner claimed.

The NW Datsuns' show in Canby is approaching, just over 5 weeks away. Are you and your Z ready? Who's planning on coming, and which car will you drive (if you have more than one)? In past years, many of us local and semi-local CZCC members and friends have gathered at 9:30ish on Sunday at the Southbound rest area on I-5 and caravanned the rest of the way in together. Last year I think we had eight 240Zs and two 280Zs (and one 350Z) for the last 10 miles or so. How many can we get this year? For any coming from points South, as in past years I plan to leave the Eugene/Springfield area at around 7:30 Sunday morning. Can probably arrange stops in Albany and Salem to link up with others on the way to the rest area. Sound off!

I'm not an A/C expert, but I'm having a hard time seeing how the shroud could be the problem. The opening in the shroud is larger than the pusher fan's diameter, so the pushed air shouldn't be restricted. Besides, the heat of the day is when you WANT the shroud to help keep the engine temp down. The fact that your engine doesn't run hot in the heat of the day tells me the shroud is doing what it is supposed to do. I'm thinking something else must still be wrong. Are you certain they got the correct amount of R12 in there?

The rail on my 7/71 car appears to be the same as the third one in your pictures.

I think the one with the loop at the back is the short rail for flat-top cabs - '73 and '74. I'll take a look at what is on my 7/71 car later tonight.

I would be interested to know if anyone with a '70-71 240Z still might have their original slave cylinder to check the bore size. After all these years its not likely that it might still be on the car and in functioning order, but perhaps someone may have kept one when the original was replaced? I'm still wondering about a running production change. On the other hand, even if there was a change from 5/8" to 11/16" at some point, you would think that the parts fiche/CD would at the very least list a 5/8" rebuild kit for the earliest cylinders, assuming that there were any such beasts. So maybe they were always 11/16" bore, and the '71 FSM (as well as the third party SM I have) was simply wrong. Although the 5/8" bore is mentioned in more than one place, I think.

My take after 25 years in tires and wheels. Not inferior, just different. Applied correctly to a properly cleaned surface by a technician who knows what he/she is doing, they will do a fine job. Many alloy wheels do not have a lip design that allows the use of clip weights. So you may not have a choice of what type is used. Turn it 180 degrees, not just 90. Chances are that if the assembly needs that much weight you were unlucky and matched the heaviest spots of both tire and wheel together. If so, turning the tire 180 will often make a significant difference. I don't know that I'd call it a problem, but yes, if the tire is the cause it will most generally get worse as it wears. Actually, if you marked the spot that wanted the weight prior to turning the tire, you can get a pretty accurate idea by comparing where the weight is needed after turning, especially if you did the 180 rather than 90. If the weight is still needed in the same general area as before, it is probably the wheel that has a heavy spot. If the need for weight follows the tire, it's the tire.

Is it just me? Does anyone else have a Factory Service Manual that claims the slave should be 5/8"? If so, what year was the manual published?

Which means you'd need a '77 or later round port head to use them with.

Looks like a round-port Pacesetter to me.

If you do, stop by in the Eugene-area on the way, I've got a bottle homebrew stout with your name on it. But you must pick it up in person...

If you keep it with stock suspension (not lowered), I'd think you should be OK with either 225/45-17 or 215/50-17. I don't think I'd go any wider than that. The only place I'd be too concerned is at the front valance (below the front bumper ends) when turning. Probably no issue at all if you use an air dam rather than the stock valance parts.

I didn't, I paid Scott to do it! On the red car he didn't drill at all, he used a grinder to grind through the spot welds without going all the way through the layer below. But he drilled all the way through the welds on the donor roof. (Note the holes in the picture below.) That way he said he could weld the holes in the new skin to solid metal underneath.

Ahh. That may be the last one in the States, which would explain the BIN price. I called my dealer, none left in any US warehouses.

Never thought about a new skin. Part number 73102-E4100, still shows as a good number from Courtesy and NissanParts.cc, albeit at $550 or more. Luckily the donor I had was totally straight.

That's why my car lost the cloth-covered coolant hoses that it still had when I bought it, as well as most of the suspension bushings. (The remaining bushings are still on my to-do list.)

That should work OK, except that Z stock lug studs aren't long enough to use a 10mm spacer (you won't find 9mm, but 10mm would work) and still have enough thread to bolt up the rim. You'd need to replace all the studs with longer ones. That's not too hard in the front, but requires you to pull apart the stub axles and wheel bearings in the rear. If you don't already need to replace the wheel bearings in back, you'll probably be better off using the +35 offset with 25mm bolt-on spacers instead. Those spacers will bolt onto your studs, and have their own studs to bolt the wheel onto. These spacers will be more money, but way less hassle than changing out the studs.