Arne

When you say "early 4 speed" I'm assuming you mean the Type A with external shift linkage as used in the US in '70 and '71 only. If that is correct, I'd say probably not, as the bearing and front mounting are different between those two types. You might be able to use one from a later 4 speed though.

http://seattle.craigslist.org/sno/cto/1146506836.html Anyone familiar with it? Is it licensed by BRE? Or an unlicensed knock-off? How well executed is it? Text of ad and link to pics - contact info removed.

An 8" wheel with +10 has too much backside (~4 7/8") and the tire will not clear the spring. Hence the requirement for spacers, to add some clearance there The stock 240Z wheel studs (front and rear) are relatively short, and the addition of most any spacers will often require longer studs to be truly "correct". As a rule of thumb, you should have a minimum thread engagement that is the same as the stud diameter. So for a 240Z with 12mm studs, you should have at least 12mm of stud available past the lug seat on the wheel. Call it 1/2" minimum in theory, and in real life figure on needing 15mm (~5/8").

Both pinned.

Courtesy's prices are generally already discounted off of normal Nissan list price.

I'll bet that there's not more than a few hundred truly active posters, and maybe a couple thousand who visit regularly but never post. So 0.7% might be a mite misleading. And you need to have a Google login of some sort to post on the map. I can certainly understand if people really don't want to share any info with Google. After all, that what Google exists to do - data mine. I'm pretty fussy about what info I let Google have knowingly. If others are even more fussy, that's OK. You've been pinned...

I've merged the threads.Please don't start more than one thread on the same topic, Broken74, it tends to confuse things.

Ignition module on the '83 should be the E12-93 with three terminals, a pair at the top and a single on one side. The single side terminal is the one that gets a signal from the ECU. Two options for that - either replace with an E12-80 module, or I've heard that if you simply provide the side terminal with 12v (switched with the ignition) you should be OK. You'll want a relay and fuse/breaker protected circuit for the pump, ideally switched with both ignition and oil pressure for safety. Should be fairly simple to wire that up, no different than adding an electric pump to an early 240Z.

Which is one reason so much of what I buy comes from my local Nissan dealer. No shipping charges, they give me a club discount (about equal to Courtesy or Nissanparts online pricing), and since there's no sales tax in Oregon, they are frequently the best price. Plus I get factory parts, never aftermarket.

Up to 105 pins now. No activity for a while. Is this all?

Randy, late to the thread here, but I thought I'd add that my red car also runs a bit hotter than I'd prefer, assuming we can trust the gauge. (Big assumption). Like yours, it typically runs a bit on the hot side of the middle. That is with a new (factory Nissan) 180 degree thermostat, and a new temperature sender. I still have the original two-row radiator, but have changed to a slightly larger (and lighter) 260Z plastic fan. My climate is cooler than yours, I typically use some antifreeze, but not 50/50. I'm due to change the coolant this Spring anyway, so I plan to use Water Wetter and a coolant mix of 33/67 or so to try to get the temps down a bit.

See post #6 in this very thread.

In addition to those mentioned here, I get a large majority of my parts at my local Nissan Dealer. Some dealers don't seem to be able to look up early Z parts anymore (mine has no problems with that), but if you have the club parts list CD and give them the part numbers, there's a surprising amount of stuff still available from the factory.

And to find your member number, click on your screen name and open your own profile. Them look at the URL of your profile in the address bar. The number at the end is your member number. The "u=xxxxx" part.

The discount isn't always a full 10%, and doesn't normally apply to sale items. But hey, a discount is a discount.

If you ever decide you can live without that second set of 15" LeMans, you know who to call....

I had a pair of front inserts rebuilt by Bilstein a few years back. They were long NLA, Alpina-valved units for a gray market BMW 323i. No warranty for me, as I wasn't the original purchaser. But they had no problems rebuilding them, as long as I was willing to pay for the work. They came back working like new, turn-around was about a week. I don't remember the exact cost, but it was comparable to the cost of a new pair of Konis, which was the only choice left that was truly correct for that car at that point. And by rebuilding I got to keep the tuner-valving. No secondary bump stops are possible or even needed with those Bilsteins. They have an internal bumpstop built in. If they came with accordion boots (gaiters) to protect the tube, I'd use them.

I'd rather have the Bilsteins...

I didn't do it on my 240Z, but replaced all the vent hoses instead. But my car is a low mileage, mostly original survivor and I felt I wanted to maintain as much originality as possible. For a less original car, I'd have by-passed this in a heartbeat. Done correctly, the only possible downside is that it's not original.

When the damper rises, it pulls the needle farther into the small end of the taper, thereby richening the mixture, not leaning it. So weak damper springs won't do this.

Most people think so, but there is occasionally some disagreement on this topic.

Nothing wrong with a Pertronix for a daily driver - IF the dizzy you put it in is in good shape and not worn out. But these days that's hard to find. So the Unilite becomes a great alternative. Thanks for the guide, Dave. BTW, I converted your diagrams to GIFs, smaller file size, and browsers will display them so they don't need to be downloaded. We really need to get Dave some decent image-editing software!

This year Canby is June 13-14. Sunday is the day of the show. Datsun Drivin' Fun 2009 Forum announcement Some pictures from 2008 More pics from 2008

Welcome, Chris. Since we're in the same part of the country, I look forward to meeting you (and your car) in person some day. Think you'll have it road-worthy in time for the Datsun show in Canby in early June?

Press. I had the machine shop do it at the same time they re-surfaced the flywheel. They normally charge $10, but did it for free since I was doing the flywheel at the same time.