Arne

Les is easier to catch on the phone. His number is on the website.

I don't think Leah would approve of the latter... :paranoid:

It's definitely a great performing car, and the performance is even more impressive for the price. An outstanding performance value. But a good looking car, it ain't, not to my eyes. But that's just me. I fully support their purchase by bucket-loads of other people, keep Nissan solvent.

Seems fairly common, these days. The used hatch I bought for my first 240Z (Series 1) had had both tabs re-welded before I bought it. And the left side was flexing and breaking on the red car when I got it as well, and it was a low mileage, never abused car. I had a local body/paint shop re-weld the one on the red car. He removed the hatch from the car and ran a bead all the way around the tab, then coated the repair with POR. When I had him paint the whole car 18 months later (after the roof re-skin to remove the sunroof), he painted the underside of the hatch while he had it off.

Glad you like it. My wife and I saw one today while we were in the 240Z. I shook my head, and my wife actually laughed when she saw it, and asked me how long it has been since Nissan built a truly good looking car? Of course, she still hasn't forgiven them for building the F-10...

I think that's correct. None of my '71s (including the Series 1) had that part.

I think I'd paint the grill a darker color. Dark graphite, or maybe even satin black.

My turn today. Drove up the McKenzie River, stopped for lunch, went a bit farther and had a great hike along the river, then drove back home. The Z killed many bugs!

All indications point to the rear carb. Sounds like it's not delivering much fuel at all. You are aware that both carbs should not necessarily be adjusted the same number of turns, aren't you? I'd try leaving the front as is, and richening the rear carb only, pehaps as mus as a full turn richer to start.

Welcome! P.S. - Love the wheels....

They should. I think the only difference between the years was in the emblem holes on the side. In fact, I believe that the new fenders still available from Nissan are '70-78 all.

I can't imagine that there'd be any performance difference, if all else is equal (same coil, whether or not you have CDI added, timing and advance curves, etc.). Any performance difference would be from one of those other factors, not which distributor and module triggers the spark. But you're both right, parts availability might be a reason to swap.

You'd best talk to a copyright attorney, not a group of car nuts on the Internet. I don't think I trust an online forum for advise if legal action and/or fines might be involved if you do it wrong.

Not sure what happened to the rest of my post last night?? It should have read something like this:Put the strut housing in a big vice and attach a slide hammer to the end of the strut shaft. Don't clamp the tube of the housing as that may pinch tighter on the insert. Clamp at the bottom where the housing bolts to the steering knuckle. Doing it this way gives the same effect as your method, but avoids damage to the housing from the hammer. Carl's method often works as well, as long as the problem is not caused from rust inside the tube.

Put the strut housing in a big vice and attach a slide

I did swap that '71 back to carbs. Wrote a tech article on it. Not all will appy to this situation, but it will give a bit of an idea of what you need. http://www.classiczcars.com/forums/showthread.php?t=21574

My first '71 had an '83 ZX injected motor in it, and it was a mess. Not because the injection is inherently bad (it's not), but because the guy who swapped it in didn't take the time or effort to do it right. As Rob said, there's a whole lot of things to add or change to use the injection in a 240Z. I agree with Rob that it will be far simpler to use the 280Z motor with a set of 240Z carbs.

I don't think that's possible with this type of antenna.

215s or 225s may fit with the 7" on the rear, depending on the brand. (The width part of the size is an approximation, and actual width will vary.) 205s will probably be fine regardless of brand.

My original, unrestored '71 (7/71 b.d.) did/does not have a seal there. That leading edge of the window frame is painted black. There are small glued-on rubber trims at the bottom, as I recall. No pictures handy right now, I'll try to remember to take pictures later tonight. I think I recall that they didn't start using a seal there until much later than '71.

Yeah, once I found it I could see the logic of it, but I kept figuring that since it screws into the cylinder head, that's where it would be listed. Wrong.

I don't think so now, but I can't rule it out. Actually, I refuse to own a car that I only use that sparingly. All of my previous project/hobby cars have been driven daily, used as normal transportation, in addition to being weekend entertainment. My 240Z is no different. I drive it when I want to, to work a few times a week, and if it rains, no big deal.I enjoy restoring and working on my cars, and making them conform to my vision of what they should be. In the past, I sometimes have gotten bored with a car once it was "done". That's a sure sign of it being time to move on. Which actually bodes well for my keeping the Z for a long while, even once it is "done". (It's not there yet, BTW.) Because when this last time came to pick a project, I had a whole list of criteria to try to make certain I'd buy a car that I could live with for a while. The 240Z best met all my criteria, so maybe it is THE car I'll finish with. Hard to say right now. Yeah, that pretty much describes it for me as well. I don't even have to drive it, just going into the garage and dinking around with it, or even just looking at it is pleasurable. But once that magic goes away (if it does), there's no point in hanging on.

They list it as a heater part. Go figure.

Yeah, I had a hell of a time finding that part on the Parts CD. It was shown someplace totally off the wall like in electrical, or something equally stupid. Part number is 27195-E4400.

Got you covered, Bob.