Arne

http://cgi.ebay.com/ebaymotors/240Z-280Z-Datsun-Rear-Spindle-Pin-Strut-Pin-Puller_W0QQcmdZViewItemQQ_trkparmsZ72Q3a1205Q7c66Q3a2Q7c65Q3a12Q7c39Q3a1Q7c240Q3a1318Q7c301Q3a1Q7c293Q3a1Q7c294Q3a50QQ_trksidZp3286Q2ec0Q2em14QQhashZitem120394103277QQitemZ120394103277QQptZMotorsQ5fAutomotiveQ5fTools#ht_500wt_1218 Built by a club member here. I've used one, it does the job.

Not with stock gearing and stick diameter tires, no. Mine turns less than 3000 RPM at 60 MPH. Road & Track reported revs/mile (60 MPH) as 2850 in 1970.

The few remaining that haven't rusted away by then, yes.

I've been there on this one. A '73 harness is considerably different than any of the '70 harnesses. Of which there were several variations, I should add. After all my research, I'd say that if you need to replace the wiring in a '70 and want to use as many of the original electrical components as possible, you want to use no later than a '71, say 8/71 build date. And you'll want the entire harness, all three of the main pieces. If you use one later than 1/71 build date, you'll need the matching short pigtail fusebox to go with it.

Unless you can get some of those people who may have stocked up while they were still available to part with a set, you may have to build an alternative from some other car or source. I don't know of anywhere to get them new now.

Sorry, Michael, that came across much harsher than I intended. I understood the sentiment you were posting, Stephen's knowledge is great and his help here is well appreciated.My point was that every time someone posts about their desire/need to sell their Z(s), everyone posts about how wrong that is, try to keep it, you'll regret it later, etc. But we need to acknowledge that for some people, selling is the correct thing to do, and help and support them in this every bit the same as when we attempt to help them with a problem. Saying, "No! Don't sell!" isn't helping.

Rubber bushings are still available, or were in the summer of '07 when I last bought a pair. Part #32853-22000, were less than $2 each.

I see them every now and again on evilBay. I don't think I have a spare lever to go with my spare early transmission, but will check.

No, really he doesn't have to. This is life. Things change. No one else can judge what is appropriate for others. If Stephen, I or others decide the time has come to move on, then the time has come. End of story.While I have no thoughts right now about selling my 240Z, the reality is that my motor vehicle obsessions tend to last 5-8 years, and then I sell and move on to something else. FWIW - I'm well into year my fourth year of Z ownership now...

Sorry for not posting this sooner. June 13-14th. You've got two months, Brian...

Joe, living here in Oregon as I do, I think I've seen your car at a show or two in person. And while the build quality looks impressive, getting that kind of money for it - especially in today's market - will be very difficult. The problem is that when selling a heavily modified car like yours, finding the right buyer is very hard. You have to find someone who shares your vision for the car, but can't (or doesn't want to) build it him/herself. For someone to be willing to pay that much for the car, EVERYTHING will need to be acceptible to the buyer. Any small thing that the buyer doesn't care for – color, stripes, flares, anything – will be enough to either squash the deal, or force a significant price reduction. All this is despite the obvious fact that there is no possible way that one could build a similar car for the money that you are asking. As I said, to sell this car for anywhere close to your price, you are going to have to find a buyer for whom the car is their dream. My advice is to not limit yourself when advertising it. You need to hit the very widest audience to have a reasonable chance of finding your buyer. I'd use eBay (fixed price or high reserve) and any other nationwide venue you can think of. You can't overlook any possibilities to find your buyer. Good luck!

That's what it sounds like to me, too. It's been a LOOOONG time since I've had a car that dieseled. Seems to me that a timing change might fix it as well. Can't seem to recall this morning which way to go though... :stupid:

How long did it run after switching the key off before it stumbled and died? 5 seconds? 15? More?

Hard to say just yet, I haven't even confirmed that I can make it. Still working on it. We out here feel badly for you. Here's photos of a typical Fall drive here in Oregon.Mary's Peak Fun Run Most of the activities are based farther North' date=' that's for sure. Brian (azcarbum) tried to get a Eugene-based club started a couple years ago. No real success. He moved to Central Oregon, and not much has happened down here since then. I tried to put together a drive up the McKenzie in the Fall of '07, got one other local Z, and 4 from Portland to show up.[img']http://1971.240z.home.comcast.net/~1971.240z/images/zs-in-lava.jpg

Can't do both days. Might be able to drive up on Saturday, maybe meeting the group at Maryhill Museum for lunch and the return back on 14.

No, the four wire tach was the early style. Your '73 should have a three wire.

Not by today's standards, no. Actually, I think the highest compression for any of the L-series engines here in North America was 9.0:1. There were at least 4 major versions of heads which carried the E88 casting number. Late '71 were very similar to the E31 combustion chamber, but slightly lower compression, had a CR of 8.7:1 or so. '72 had a different combustion chamber shape, and a CR a bit lower yet, about 8.3:1. (Sometimes called "small-chamber" E88.) '73 changed the chamber shape yet again, CR about the same as the '72, maybe a touch lower. (Sometimes called "larger-chamber" E88.) '74 was much the same chamber as the '73, but had larger exhaust valves.

No, I'm anal and a more than a bit fussy. My carbs' screws are all still pretty pristine and yellow cad plated. I do it VERY carefully.

Removing the domes is pretty darned easy, about 2 minutes per carb. I don't see what the big deal with that is.

Mine is currently much like yours, Gary, except that the original out pipe was cut off at the exit of the "Y" and a new, shorter one welded on. My entire exhaust from that point back is rusty mild steel, crush-bent 1 3/4" pipe. The glasspack is 24" long, and was welded in like yours, only a much cleaner welding job. As for what I replace it with, I keep waffling. I like the exhaust note now, but it could stand to be a touch louder, even in my wife's opinion. I don't care for the look of the small rusty tailpipe with cheap bolt-on chrome tip, and it might be nice if the pipe was a bit larger diameter (both better flow and louder). Aluminized pipe would stay better looking for a much longer time. I also want something that looks period correct. So I haven't firmed up my decision yet. I've considered that NOS Ansa that Clive has for sale, but by the time you factor in shipping to Oregon, that's $500. More than I really want to spend on an exhaust, plus the few Ansas I owned back in the day were not very durable, rather rust-prone in fact. It would be period-correct, though, not just period-looking. Another option would be a Monza system. That would look period, but with the modern aluminized pipe and mandrel bends that the Ansa lacks. But I'd need to re-work the out pipe on the downpipe to match the front of the new mid-pipe (have to do that for the Ansa, also), and the yellow paint in the tips would have to go for my red car. Cost would be about $300 delivered, or $200 less than the Ansa. Or I could have the existing system recreated using larger, aluminized tube. Say 2" or 2 1/4" pipe. Mandrel bends would be nice, but not necessary if the extra cost is too much. Still use a glasspack in the middle, but use a nice resonated angle cut tip on the end. Probably have it built with flanged joints so that it could be dropped in sections for servicing the transmission or rear suspension. This is probably the most likely option. Price would be similar the Monza, I suspect.

Have you already test fitted it all to the car? You'll want to have the spook mounting holes drilled before paint. You don't want to drill through the fresh paint.

My info came from my Nissan FSM. Calls for 0.8-0.9mm (.031-.035"). I'll trust Nissan before I trust the plug manufacturer.

I don't know about a '72, but the recommended gap for a '71 is only .032", not .040". In my experience, wider gap is not better, at least not for a 240Z. Many NGK plugs have the gap that they preset as a suffix to the part number, in tenth of a millimeter. (1/10th mm = .004") So a BP6ES-8 has a .032" gap. a BPR6ES-11 is .044". If a plug doesn't have the suffix, assume it to be -8.

It's not cheap, and generally includes bigger brakes so that you need bigger than 14" wheels. Or that's what I've seen. Others may have more experience with this and should chime in.

Take a peek under the rear to see how much room you have between the tire sidewall and the springs. To go from 215 to 245 you'll need at least 3/4" clearance to the side, and probably a 1/2" upwards. Konigs have -9 offset, that will help on the side clearance. You could have adapters custom built to take those Cragers, but they'll be expensive and custom. Cheaper to find a set with the more normal 5-4 1/2 bolt pattern. Adapters for that could be purchased off the shelf. But adapters will add 25 mm negative offset, which is a lot. You could also convert your hubs to 5 lug so you could run similar Cragers. That would be the best option.