Arne

Not to my personal tastes, but nicely done, it appears.

Can't embed HTML on these forums, Stephen. It needs to be BBcode.

I'm with Stephen on this one. You play the cards you're dealt. It's much less stressful and easier to conform to the local rules than it is to attempt to weasel around them.

No, the one posted on Zcar.com (and also here, and hybridz.org) is an early Type A as used in '70-71 S30s in other parts of the world. That one is correct for '70-71, and will fit later S30s as well. completely different than the one pictured here.

Dunno about that. $21k for a really clean, possibly rust-free 240Z like that red one sounds like a decent deal to me, even if it does have ugly wire basket wheels. I know that I probably wouldn't sell mine for much less than that.

No. Even a certified engine swap must meet the requirements of the car itself, or the swapped engine - whichever is newer. Swapping an older (smog-exempt) engine into a car that still requires smog tests is not allowed.

They probably wouldn't be able to see the difference between different carbs, no. But California does require a visual inspection under the hood as well. And if the emissions sticker says the car was certified as injected but it has carbs, that's an automatic failure, regardless of what comes out of the tail pipe. I've actually profited from this in the past. My previous graymarket BMW came from California. It failed the visual because their "books" said that a BMW of that year needs an air injection system. This car didn't have one. A catalyst was added long ago, and the sniffer test was well below the limits for its year. But they couldn't get it past the referee, so they had to sell the car to someone in a state (like Oregon) with saner regulations.

No, you'll need to either keep the original EFI or convert to a CARB-approved aftermarket system (assuming there is such a thing). Retro-fitting carbs from an older model won't pass.

Mostly true. In my professional opinion, the recent Mac OS's are a bit more secure than Windows. They are also more difficult to write malware for. It's not impossible, and Macs aren't invulnerable, but it does take a bit more effort. And your typical malware hack doesn't want to invest the time it would take to craft something that would only affect a small percentage of the installed base. As simple as that.That said, while I hold valid support certifications on all three major platforms (Apple, Microsoft and Redhat Linux), I use Macs by choice. They are simply easier to maintain for home use.

If you haven't already, it'd be worth rechecking all the adjustments again just to be certain, but it sounds like you've already done that. On a later car ('72 and newer) the only adjustments are the pedal height and the free play (pushrod length).

Isn't the free play on a 280Z adjusted on the master cylinder pushrod? If so, he already stated that it is on the last thread there.

Actually, the transmission doesn't matter. Different years of cars used different height pressure plates and had throwout bearing collars to suit whichever pressure plate was used. The drive plate and T-O bearing itself were all the same regardless of the other parts. Unfortunately, I can't think of any way to verify whether this might be your problem without dropping the transmission and measuring parts. But your description of the problem certainly sounds like this is a likely possibility. Especially how the PO used every possible thread on the pushrod and such to try to get enough travel. Sounds like you have both a short collar and a short pressure plate. Here's a page that helps describe the issue with pictures: http://zparts.com/zptech/articles/trans_swap%20parts/4tobear_specs1.html

It is quite possible that when the swap occurred, they have a mis-matched throwout bearing collar and pressure plate. You may have to pull the transmission to figure out what they put in there so you can correct it.

Things like this are a big nuisance for me, but just a nuisance. I support Linux servers at work and use Macs both to admin my Linux boxes and also at home. So all I worry about is collateral damage via Internet congestion. As I said, a big nuisance.

Moving it to a different place is an excellent idea, Alan, and I have done so. (Yes, I'm still technically a moderator, but I really do try to let this place self-moderate when possible.)After all, it's only "garbage" when it's not in the proper place. The previous thread was NOT the proper place. Manure in the barn is a smelly mess, but tilled into the field it is desirable. But I do ask that as this thread continues (if it does so), that all parties be respectful and not stoop to name-calling and attacks. There's already been a little of that in here.

I agree, on my screen the pictures posted by jerz are very accurate.

Can anyone explain to me how all this bickering is of any value at all to the original question? Especially in that I strongly suspect that the original poster may not be a native English speaker? All this history garbage is totally off-topic in this thread. To Alan and Carl - if you two feel you must argue in this manner, take it to a more appropriate venue.

The Z lives in Camas with his wife (FunZ1Z).No idea who moved Jonny's pin.

I guess some of us West Coasters are too laid back to pin to the map. I know for a fact that the number of pins for Oregon and Washington is only about half or less of the people around here that I normally correspond with. Don't know why some haven't pinned. Steve lives in Camas, WA, but works for weeks (months?) at a time way up there in Alaska. I think his pin is correct.

Here's a screenshot of North America so far. There are 5 pins outside N. America, 3 in Europe, 1 in the Middle East, and 1 in New Zealand.

Those are the only ZX rims that I really like even a little. They'll fit and work fine on a 240Z, although as bigoak notes, they are not period correct. But note that they take special lug nuts, that only fit factory Nissan mag wheels. Those lug nuts can be expensive if the seller doesn't have them.

Yes, but matte black is too dark. The original gray was much lighter than that.

Only '70 and '71 had the webbing, '72 and later had springs. I imagine you could add some webbing to reinforce the springs.

I've got them on my motorcycle. They are a bit large, but work fine. The hose does not need to be submerged with them.

You know, after I posted that I went outside to mow the lawn. While mowing I thought to myself, "I think I said that wrong, I think he's in Norway." You'd think that someone of Swedish ancestry could keep his Scandinavian countries straight, but I guess not. The original was totally dull/flat - no gloss at all. I tried using a satin clear coat to flatten it and it wasn't nearly flat enough. The original was not metallic at all. But if you spray it dry enough, the metallic tends to add some depth and make it look flatter and rougher than it really is. So while not perfect, the metallic doesn't seem to hurt. And finding an off the shelf alternative will be easier for metallics. That's why I gave the Nissan paint code as well. If Motip can match Nissan #463, that should be the same as the Plasti-kote.