Arne

Please Tim! Not into the parking lights! Totally illegal and annoying to oncoming traffic! Don't give Zs a bad reputation around here! Use a relay and hook them into the high beams instead.

I got my calendar way back before the first of the year, came with the January issue, I think. It's hanging on the wall in my office at work. I guess I'd have to send it to Carl for an autograph.

I know where you are coming from, Mike. I also have restored a B in the past. For the most part, repro parts were easily available, and relatively affordable. (Except for the pre-'68 overdrive vacuum switch, which took years to find!)But consider - they built more than a half-million MGBs over an 18 year run. Far more than there were S30s.

Brad, it's time you were introduced to the Search function here. Virtually every new thread you have started with a question has been answered before - not just once, but many times. Please make an effort to look for previous answers before starting a brand new thread. A quick search for "ignition switch screws" turned up this thread, among others. http://www.classiczcars.com/forums/showthread.php?t=25965

Some day I'll want to see you car in person, Tim. I'm interested in seeing how this all turns out. Canby in June, perhaps?

FWIW - I cured my similar problem this morning. This may or may not apply to your car, but might be worth a try. With the electronic ignition on my car I had been using wider gap NGKs as specified for 280ZX - BPR6EY-11 V-Power, to be precise. This morning, after reading in an old generic troubleshooting guide from the '70s that a miss under acceleration is often plug gap too wide, I installed a set of stock BP6ES-8 instead. Both sets of plugs were nearly new, and the wide gap plugs looked beautiful coming out. But with the narrow gap plugs, the car runs perfectly. Pulls smoothly and strongly past 6000 RPM. No issues at all. I know that conventional wisdom is that wider gap is good if you have electronic ignition, and especially with a bit hotter coil (I've got a Pertronics Flamethrower in mine). But the wider gap does not work well in my car, for whatever reason. May have to do with the combustion chamber shape, or who knows what. Anyway, it may be worth looking into on your car, Sean.

Whatever the Datsun dealer applied back in the late Summer of '71...

I agree with Roger on the long tail pipe and the sound. Much more of a mellow, almost musical tone that way. My car is seriously undersized in the exhaust department by today's standards, with a single, stock-size 1 3/4" pipe. But it sounds quite nice with a single 24" glass pack in the center and the long tail pipe. As Roger noted, the exhaust note makes me think of Jags from the '60s.

Part of the issue is that this forum has a significant number of members for whom English is not their native tongue. They can't help or get help from posts which contain slang, txt, poor spelling or lack of punctuation. It really helps these non-English speakers when we try hard to use complete sentences, good spelling and proper grammar. Just courtesy, IMO.

I've got the 60 amp ZX in mine, works just fine. I've got H4 headlights, Pertronix ingition and coil, no amp on the stereo - similar to your plans. Even here in the Winter with the lights, heater fan, rear defroster, wipers and radio on, the turn signals do not slow down massively anymore when sitting at a stop light at idle.

Single point. Dual point were automatics only, starting in 8/70. Don't have part numbers handy right now.

True, my bad, and I offer my apologies. I recalled that I have seen a nice looking 240Z from Reno several times over the past few months, and assumed this was the same car. I was wrong. Went back and looked, and the car I was thinking of is yellow. So ignore my comments on reserves and such - they don't apply to this car.BTW, I probably mis-remembered due to my advancing age, not because I'm 16. But some of us older guys do keep up a bit. Yes, picking eBay cars apart always seems to be a favored past-time here. But as I said above, your car appears to be a solid, honest car. I don't want show cars, I want cars I can drive. So if I was in the market, and was close enough to see it in person, I'd be looking hard at this car. All this fuss about the undersides - sheesh! I don't think mine looks all that different, probably because I don't try to keep it detailed underneath, I'm too busy driving it.Tim, I can certainly understand wanting to respond to the criticism posted here. Might have been better to be more up front early on, but no big deal. But a better way to approach this might have been to post your pictures here for critique and assistance in presenting the car on eBay in its best light. Then when these questions came up, you could have addressed them prior to the auction. Just a thought.

OWNED!!

Nope, air injection. Smog gear that's been removed.

ATF is wrong, it averages about SAE 5, whereas specs call for SAE 20. I (and many others) use motorcycle fork oil. That's about the easiest way to find true 20 wt.

This is at least the 4th or 5th time I have seen that car on eBay recently. I seem to recall seeing a pretty ridiculous Buy-It-Now price on it at least once, so I suspect the seller has the reserve set pretty high. Pick it apart all you want, people. But the pictures still appear to show a remarkably solid car. I think it would be a good car if the price weren't too nutso. I'd want to inspect it in person, of course, but if it checks out as non-rusty it's worth a fair amount.

A second thought - have you looked at the back side of the switch? I'm wondering if the switch is already disassembling itself back there.

Steve, many of the switches used on these older cars can be disassembled, cleaned and contacts repaired. However, the fact that it won't click into the On position sounds more like broken pieces inside. I don't know of any sources for new or repro hazard switches, but I may have a spare, if a used one will do. Send me a PM.

Ken, you and the Bullet should come out here to Oregon some time. The Datsuns NW show in Canby is in early June, we'd love to see you!

Mine are from Motorsport. Seems like the set was only about $6 or so.

Far from it. I've parted out an entire car in these classifieds... As a moderator, if you post it as an ad there, I'll delete this thread.

Don't know how these attach, but this outfit has a pair of NOS. http://www.centralhp.com/viewitem.php?productID=HAM-1001

Did you also post this in the Parts Wanted ads in the Classifieds? That's where it really belongs.

Here in Oregon and Washington, they turn up on craigslist regularly. Often $40-60. But as noted above, shipping them might be expensive due to size and how easy they'd be to damage.

260/280Z euro/JDM with amber turn signals. Should fit all 260/280Zs.