Arne

I've got the 60 amp ZX in mine, works just fine. I've got H4 headlights, Pertronix ingition and coil, no amp on the stereo - similar to your plans. Even here in the Winter with the lights, heater fan, rear defroster, wipers and radio on, the turn signals do not slow down massively anymore when sitting at a stop light at idle.

Single point. Dual point were automatics only, starting in 8/70. Don't have part numbers handy right now.

True, my bad, and I offer my apologies. I recalled that I have seen a nice looking 240Z from Reno several times over the past few months, and assumed this was the same car. I was wrong. Went back and looked, and the car I was thinking of is yellow. So ignore my comments on reserves and such - they don't apply to this car.BTW, I probably mis-remembered due to my advancing age, not because I'm 16. But some of us older guys do keep up a bit. Yes, picking eBay cars apart always seems to be a favored past-time here. But as I said above, your car appears to be a solid, honest car. I don't want show cars, I want cars I can drive. So if I was in the market, and was close enough to see it in person, I'd be looking hard at this car. All this fuss about the undersides - sheesh! I don't think mine looks all that different, probably because I don't try to keep it detailed underneath, I'm too busy driving it.Tim, I can certainly understand wanting to respond to the criticism posted here. Might have been better to be more up front early on, but no big deal. But a better way to approach this might have been to post your pictures here for critique and assistance in presenting the car on eBay in its best light. Then when these questions came up, you could have addressed them prior to the auction. Just a thought.

OWNED!!

Nope, air injection. Smog gear that's been removed.

ATF is wrong, it averages about SAE 5, whereas specs call for SAE 20. I (and many others) use motorcycle fork oil. That's about the easiest way to find true 20 wt.

This is at least the 4th or 5th time I have seen that car on eBay recently. I seem to recall seeing a pretty ridiculous Buy-It-Now price on it at least once, so I suspect the seller has the reserve set pretty high. Pick it apart all you want, people. But the pictures still appear to show a remarkably solid car. I think it would be a good car if the price weren't too nutso. I'd want to inspect it in person, of course, but if it checks out as non-rusty it's worth a fair amount.

A second thought - have you looked at the back side of the switch? I'm wondering if the switch is already disassembling itself back there.

Steve, many of the switches used on these older cars can be disassembled, cleaned and contacts repaired. However, the fact that it won't click into the On position sounds more like broken pieces inside. I don't know of any sources for new or repro hazard switches, but I may have a spare, if a used one will do. Send me a PM.

Ken, you and the Bullet should come out here to Oregon some time. The Datsuns NW show in Canby is in early June, we'd love to see you!

Mine are from Motorsport. Seems like the set was only about $6 or so.

Far from it. I've parted out an entire car in these classifieds... As a moderator, if you post it as an ad there, I'll delete this thread.

Don't know how these attach, but this outfit has a pair of NOS. http://www.centralhp.com/viewitem.php?productID=HAM-1001

Did you also post this in the Parts Wanted ads in the Classifieds? That's where it really belongs.

Here in Oregon and Washington, they turn up on craigslist regularly. Often $40-60. But as noted above, shipping them might be expensive due to size and how easy they'd be to damage.

260/280Z euro/JDM with amber turn signals. Should fit all 260/280Zs.

You can get the larger 1.75" stickers that have the red/blue Datsun logo, but -- so far -- not the "Z" logo. I went with the 1.5" "Z" logo even though it is a bit too small, still looks pretty good unless you get really close to it.

Works for me, although I get an auto-redirect to http://www2.zhome.com:81/

The Eagle caps sold by Massey or Summit fit Appliance wheels perfectly. To me, they are a better option than painting the originals. Easy for me to say though, as I didn't have any caps at all for mine. But the Eagle caps are the correct size, and even very similar in shape to the original Appliance caps. I applied a set of the 1.5" "Z" emblems to mine, as shown in post 28. Summit Racing sells the Eagle caps cheaper than Massey does. The link to Summit is in post 27 in this thread.

The hatch support cylinder mounts with two bolts to the hatch itself. On the body end, there should have been a mount tab welded to the body that has a single hole in it. The cylinder has a pivoting bracket that bolts into the mounting tab. I attached the only picture I could find of the body tab.

Autozone has them for $48 ($44 after core exchange), or Schucks sells them for $39 ($31 after exchange).

1.) Yes. 2.) Right 41000-N7600, left 41010-N7600. About $95 each from Courtesy Nissan. My dealer gives me about the same price. Should be able to get reman from most any parts house for half or less. 3.) If they are still original, I'd recommend replacing them, either with steel or even new rubber. Steel should give slightly firmer pedal feel, but for street use rubber is generally fine. 4.) Calipers should ALWAYS be replaced or rebuilt in matched pairs. 5.) I've used Axxis/PBR (formerly Repco) deluxe on my street cars for years. Quiet, easy on rotors, reasonably durable. Not suitable for track use, but should be fine for spirited road use.

Alternator Condenser - 27984-B0701, $2.11 Courtesyparts.com

The bracket is part of the condenser.

Steve, I drive my '71 at least a couple of times per week. Mine has about 100k fewer miles than yours, and therefore probably more original. But my end goal is and has been to keep the car mostly stock looking, and definitely looking period correct. Most of my mods are easily reversible, if I should ever so desire. Here's the list so far, with notes. Front spook - Or some other type of air dam, adds needed stability at highway speeds. H4 headlights - Gotta be able to see after dark. Wiring relays and upgrades - No use having better lights if the stock wiring and fusebox can't keep up. Electronic ignition - Either Pertronix in the OE dizzy (if it's not worn out) or a good ZX ignition is a big plus. Consider at least a higher output coil, if not a CDI like a MSD. Stereo - Totally a personal thing. I'm using a period Pioneer AM/FM/Cassette in mine, some people will want something more modern. Higher output alternator - Stock is marginal after you've added all of the above. I've got a 60 amp ZX unit in mine. Exhaust - I am more into sound and appearance than added performance, but a nice exhaust does add to the driving experience. Suspension - Mild mods can give good results without too much compromise. I've got KYBs with Euro springs cut to give a very slightly lower than stock ride height. Many like Eibachs with KYBs or Tokicos for a lower than stock stance. Wheels and tires - If you already have a set of period 14" mags that you are happy with, that's no problem for a driver, as long as you are aware that your selection of tires will be limited. If you don't have wheels that you like, I'd consider 15" or 16" for best future tire availability.