Arne

Several reasons. The first is obvious - not that many sold in that single year offered here in the USA, not compared to 240Zs and 280Zs. Also, some 240Z owners look down on them because they came with crappy carbs and bigger bumpers. But in reality, there were enough improvements in the rest of the car that once you deal with the carbs, a 260Z makes a great daily driver.

Have you opened the kit from BD yet? The complete kit I got from MSA last year had all of that in it, except the first two.

Don't breathe it in - I suspect the white stuff could be lead buildup.

I'm 52 now, and the 240Zs I've had these past 3.5 years (2 parted, 1 keeper) are "my" first Datsuns. But lots of Datsuns that weren't mine in my past. My wife had a '74 B210 when we got married in '77. While we planned to take my car on our honeymoon, my car broke a few days before the wedding, so the B210 was taken instead. Would that small sedans these days routinely got 40+ MPG like that car did. Plenty of other Datsuns with family and friends in those days. Several pickups (520, 620 and a couple 720s), a 280Z, later 210 and a 610 come to mind. I test drove a new 280Z w/5 speed in '78, but at 21 with plenty of speeding tickets under my belt, I couldn't afford to insure it.

OK, I see what you were looking at. The retainers (welded to the floor pan) were added very early - even 12746 had those. But the clips "apparently" weren't supplied until #77533.

My car has the carpet retainers, always has, apparently. Nice red paint and covered in the factory's spray adhesive just like everything else in that area. HLS30-37702, 7/71...

That picture sure seems to confirm it to me, for factory bushings the sleeves must come out.

Good price, but that doesn't look like a "euro" bumper to me. Just looks like a normal US-spec (Deluxe) bumper with the rubber removed.

Gary, I believe that you keep the sleeve for poly bushings, but that new Nissan bushings have the sleeve bonded to the new bushing. So for factory bushings, the sleeve must come out. Do you have the new bushings yet? If not, simply leave the sleeve in place until you get them and you can see for yourself. Can't get hurt that way.

As promised...

Lights aren't on, the camera flash on the reflectors did that.

I'm with Mike on this one. My car is a late '71 - but I would really like to have a hand throttle. Not even remotely close to correct for my car's build date, but I'd like one anyway. Should I be allowed to buy and install one?

I'm not much into the "judging" scene, but IMO if the rules say they can't deduct points for an obviously later but factory replacement part, you shouldn't get a deduction for a truly accurate repro of a rare and/or NLA (from Nissan) part. Take the wood shift knobs as a not-so-rare example. Buy a new one from Nissan today and it is obviously not the same part as was used when the cars were new. Probably even made by a different company than who made the originals. But if I understand the rules correctly, you won't get a deduction for having one, as they are the "correct" "factory" replacement, no matter how obviously wrong they look. But if there was a truly accurate repro, one that was the same size as original, had the same font on the plastic shift pattern disk and suchlike so that it truly looked like an original, why should that be a deduction? Because it was made by an enthusiast who thought that original looks was more important than whether Nissan has blessed it? My 2$. Since I don't ever intend on putting my car under that kind of scrutiny, it is all moot to me. But for me personally, I prefer cars that look correct, even if some of the parts are repro.

Part #110 for 240Zs is the same way - one size fits all, both auto and stick. Pretty normal for aftermarket radiators these days.

My resistor is bypassed, but still mounted in place. And I'm using a Pertronix coil, but it is mounted in the factory coil bracket. As Gary noted, the resistor is mounted horizontally, just under the coil. It mounts using the same bolt as the lower ear of the coil bracket - it just bolts in place, doesn't 'clip' to it in any way. I can't find a picture of that part of the car right now - I'll try to remember to grab the camera and post one after I get home this evening.

Greg, were the rotors turned while in place on the car? Have you measured the rotor runout on the car with everything installed? In all my years of brake work, this has ALWAYS been a rotor issue. I can't quite see how a geometry problem could cause a violent shake.

Single stage means not base coat/clear coat - all in one.As for the difference in buying a quart and putting it in a reusable can or having it loaded in an aerosol can, not much. The aerosol can might have less moisture and such in the propellant, but it's still the same paint.

Either way should look good. Since I like the curves in the duct area, black just didn't do it for me. Didn't set off those curves at all, not like it does now that it's painted.On the other hand, non-ducted spooks that are color-matched almost look a bit plain to me (unless they are equipped with sponsor decals in a track car). So for the non-ducted I might lean toward satin (not flat) black.

In the past I've had Dupont Centari custom mixed, then loaded into rattlecans locally. So getting 903 blue should be no problem as long as you can get the right formula for a quart can.

I considered going ductless on mine, but I actually prefer the more complex shape of the ducted version. The ducted version is said to be better than the non-ducted if used w/o a rear spoiler, too. In either case, I like them both. To me, a spook is much better looking on a 240Z than a more modern air dam.

Still uncommitted. I need a vacation and would enjoy meeting some people from outside this area, but am reluctant to spend two days each way on I-5 (boring!) to get to and from a two day Datsun event.

You're right. Started in '77, I believe. Must be a later hood, if the car is really a '75.

You might PM Diseazd, I know he has installed the non-ducted MSA version on at least one or two of his cars.

The bulb socket is behind the white button. It's pretty much self-contained.

At this point, I think we can agree that the timing on this motor is all forked up, and I don't think we should assume that anything is correct. Here is what I think I'd do at this point if it were mine, and in exactly this order: 1.) Pull the plugs and cam cover. Find true TDC on #1 compression stroke via piston movement. 2.) While at true TDC, verify cam timing (both #1 lobes pointed up in ears) and check for correct cam chain tension. Correct problems as needed. (I have concerns that the head may have been excessively milled w/o having the cam towers shimmed. This could seriously affect the cam timing.) 3.) Still at true TDC, compare timing mark on pulley to marker on timing cover. If wrong, correct by moving marker or creating new mark on pulley. If a new mark is made, always use it forevermore. 4.) Still at true TDC, remove distributor cap and see where the rotor is pointing. If it doesn't point to the front of the car (approx. 8:30 assuming 12 o'clock is straight up towards the engine), the distributor drive gear is incorrectly installed. Remove the distributor, drop the oil pump, re-index the drive gear and re-install pump and dizzy. 5.) Set static timing by hand to approx. 0 degrees (true TDC). Start the car, warm it, set timing to 5-10 BTDC and test.