Arne

IIRC, that style of marker goes on the LEFT side of the engine. The marker for the right side (used on some years) is a single pointer. Does the pulley have only one mark? Or several?

My local Nissan dealer gives me a Z car club discount. Pricing that way is similar to those at nissanparts.cc or courtesyparts.com

I've never seen one of those for a 240/260/280Z that had a center support mount. No place for a center support to bolt to an an S30. If they truly are for a Z car, might be for a ZX...

Agreed. Or maybe even the glovebox lock. Because if they can't read or find the key code, you want them to cut the key from the least worn lock.

Assuming you are talking about the '73 240Z listed in your profile, that will cover it. When I painted my car last year, I did some of this. #1 came as part of the weatherstripping kit. #2 & 3 I did not replace, as I did not have the fenders off. #4 I got from Nissan, part #63223-E4102, club price $1.56 each. #5 I reused the originals. I believe they were still available from Nissan, though. #6 I got from Nissan, part #65157-N4400, club price $2.13 each. #7 & 10 I reused also. Again, I'm pretty certain Nissan still had them, and cheaper than from Black Dragon or MSA.

They will work just fine. They don't look the same as the seals for the earlier 240Zs though. Definitely true for '70-71, don't know about later as I've never owned one later than a '71.

I've had the Precision one-piece door seals on my '71 since the paint job last Spring, about 10 months now. The seals have definitely compressed some over that time, but still require a pretty firm push to close. They are useable now, but I do have plans to go back to the original style with separate welting at some point, for appearance sake, more than anything else.

Back on task here, you should NEVER attempt to replace only one single needle. There's no reliable way to figure out what needle you are matching. Who knows what needles some previous owner may have installed? Always replace them in pairs to ensure that you do in fact have a matched pair.

I suspect that many people don't even know that there is anything under the sticker. I felt it looked cheap with the sticker on it, and ripped it off immediately.

From the 9th post in this thread. And now: Looks like yours and mine are mostly the same issue after all.

Mike, I bought one of those caps for my yellow car in August '06 from Nissan for $10.83 (after discount). Part #21430-89990. First thing I did was to peel that sticker off. I suspect the sticker carries the lawyer-required warnings, and they can't be sold in the USA without it.

The 194 bulb shown is similar in output to the tail lights. That socket and location is not suitable for a higher wattage bulb for brake light or rear fog light use. It is too close to the lens, and you run the risk of melting the red lens with a hot bulb there. It's worth noting that - unlike on modern European cars where a rear socket that is unused in the US version is almost always a rear fog socket - these sockets on the 240Z lights were designed for the true parking lights, the ones lit by the missing switch next to the defroster switch in the '70-71 240Zs. In fact, if memory serves me, the rubber plug that needs to be removed has a big "P" on it.

I might have the flywheel bolts, but no drain plug. I'll look for the bolts this evening when I get home.

I'm not so sure, Will. I think the angle of the photo from the top is bad and we can't see the other two dome screws. I don't see any sign of the coolant passages in the bottom. So I think they are 4-screws, from a late '70 or a '71.

All sounds good. You did your research, found your stuff and are getting it handled. I hope it turns out as good as you hope.

Chet, you might want to search the archives for some of the repair pictures by a7dz. He's already done everything on his car that you might need to do. Here's an example. http://www.classiczcars.com/forums/showthread.php?t=28644

They do bolt to the side, but farther forward than that. On a 240Z the hole is not threaded, and is about 10 1/2" from the rear. On the right side it is about even with the rear edge of the fuel door. The 240Z bumper has a threaded mounting tab on it, the bolt goes through from the inside of the fender into the bumper mount.

Problem is that the spacers for the 4 screw carbs seldom go bad, and so replacements are not generally necessary. The later 3 screw carbs are far more likely to need them, and the brit-parts won't work for them.

The HS6 sizes would work in a pinch for 4 screw carbs, bit wouldn't look original.

Interesting. My '71 does not have that restrictor either. I wonder what years it normally came on? Edit: Looks like it was available as a dealer installed option or fix of some kind. Perhaps part of the '73 "fixes" for hot running. The parts list shows it as 14100-E8850, and calls it a "ASSY - THERMO MANIF WATER CONTROL".

Thanks, Steve. The one I had was a CSF.

I put a three row in my yellow car a couple of years back. It had no fan guard, but was otherwise a pretty close match. Can't remember the maker, but I bought it locally from a radiator shop. Cheaper than MSA and no shipping.

I believe so, because I think he makes them. Shoot him an email, he lives near Tumalo.

And before any of us here in the USA tell him to ditch the flat tops, note that he's in New Zealand, and the flat tops in the rest of the world were not the big problem that ours here were. But because of that, I don't know how much experience there is on this site with the non-emission flat tops carbs, so knowledgeable advice may be in short supply.

Not only paying attention, I've got a memory...