Arne

Ahh, I was thinking cars, not engines. My bad. My engine is over 46,000 - 48336 to be exact.And the car is already in your directory.

I'll add a clarification - the E88 (earliest version) was used earlier than Carl makes it sound. My '71 (#37705, 7/71) has the first version E88. (The head has never been off the engine. Definitely original.) The 4/71 car I parted out (#27602) had an E31. So production changed somewhere between those two. Which would seem to indicate that there weren't 46,000 E31 equipped 240Zs. Probably more like 30-35,000.

Not only are they dated, but the date code is the most obvious code on the entire car, after the door jamb plate. Right on the face of the rim.

I believe the dash itself will fit, but the wiring is very different.

As I recall it, the '70 and '71 240Zs all used the 4.5" rim. They went to 5.0" in '72, and used that through the end of the 280Z in '78. ZXs with steel rims came with 5.5" wide. The steel rims are all interchangeable. And since they are all have obvious date-codes, if you are looking for the "correct" rims you need some from a car of similar build date. If all you are concerned with is matching the factory spec, any '72-78 stock rim will be suitable. If you just want stock look but the ability to use a bit wider tire, use the ZX rims with your hubcaps. Painted properly, they will look essentially the same.

I agree, it depends on your goals. If you want to restore a Z to stock or near-stock condition, go with the 240Z. If you plan to modify one, consider the 260Z. Especially in lightly modified condition, the 260Z will be a better daily driver, should that be your goal.

Welcome, Jillian! If your car has the ZX fuel injection installed, you will want some sort of injection manual or resource. But not much else in the ZX manual will apply to your car. So you'd still need a 240Z manual as well. But if you just have the ZX engine (or engine and transmission) with carbs on it, all you need is the 240Z manual - the ZX book won't be much use to you in that case.

I've parted two recently, and I easily see more than $750 worth in those pictures alone, plus who knows how much in the parts we haven't seen. But you've got the right idea - if you've got somewhere to keep it for a while, see what else you can find before you sell something you'll kick yourself for later.

But it is also a bit lower than the earliest 280X listed there, so I think it's quite possible that it could be correct for a '78.

Late 280Zs did not have the engine number on the engine compartment plate, so there's no way to check there. I think they stopped putting it on the plate after '76.

Tommy, I used a 2 part epoxy to repair mine, not the normal conductive paint. It claims to be able to bridge 10" gaps. Details are in the last post in this thread: http://classiczcars.com/forums/showthread.php?p=235144&highlight=repair+rear+defroster#post235144

Please! No swastikas! They never looked good even on the ZXTs they came on, and certainly don't compliment the lines of an S30. Even iron crosses are better than swastikas, and iron crosses are ugly. All IMO, of course.

I tend to agree with Carl. While I've only had my spook on for a couple of years and about 6000 miles, almost all of those miles have been at highway speeds. I had mine off recently to clean and wax, and the sheet metal is just fine.

Very nice. IMO, the six-spoke wheels were by far the best-looking of all the 280ZX alloys. They seem to accent the big-bumper 280Zs quite well. I don't care for them nearly as much on 240Zs.

Can't say for certain today, but Mike B is correct, last year Nissan-branded windshields were available, but only with the dark-tint sun shade at the top. I went aftermarket instead, since my car is a bit more of a driver and won't ever make it hast high #3 condition. Most reputable glass shops include that in their warranties. I had a windshield on my Corrado replaced twice due to disortion to get one I was happy with.FWIW - the one in the Z is made by ASI and has no visible distortion.

I am very eager to see the dyno results. This is a very interesting project.

That's "OEM Quality", not OEM. I got a very similar aftermarket windshield for my car from a local glass installer last Spring for $160, no freight.

OK, here's what I think you have. The first pair (E46) appear to me to be a pair of 3-screw carbs from a '72. Not certain on the manifolds, but I think the E46s were also for the '72s. The second pair (N33) are also 3-screws from a '72, but are on manifolds that I think are from a '73 with EGR. The third pair (N36) are a pair of later 4-screws (w/float drains) from a later '70 or a '71. The N36 manifolds are (I think) from a '74 260Z with an earlier balance tube. All of the carbs are pretty much interchangeable in pairs. The heat shield on the N36 manifolds is the early type, for cars that have no heat riser. You could use any of the manifold pairs, but should use the balance tube from either the E46 or N36, not the one with the ERG stuff. Some people think the N36 manifolds flow better than the others, but I've never seen hard numbers to confirm that. So all in all, it looks like the last picture has the best-looking carbs, has the heat shield, and are on (arguably) the better manifolds with an easily desmogged balance tube. Probably the package to use, IMO.

I know what pair you are looking at, Mike, and the price is right. Sell the auto to that outfit down in CA and you're golden. If they were down here I'd already have them. I believe the truck tranny will bolt to any L-series motor, but that the truck ratios may be a bit wider than most Z owners want.

I think Z Specialties might also offer the floor pieces separately. http://www.datsunstore.com/

If the squeak you hear is a u-joint, you may not be able to feel it. Squeaks are often tight spots, not looseness. If you don't think they've been replaced in the last few year, it's probably not a bad idea. The early cars (through 8/71) are quite hard on halfshaft u-joints due to the differential location. No need to order u-joints from far away. Any normal parts house should be able to get u-joints for a 240Z. I got Spicers (with grease fittings) for mine locally. The local driveline shop had them in stock.

Yup, that's how I se it too. A third option would be a round port header, and still some exhaust work. As I said, not a deal-breaker, but you need to allow for that in your offer.

There is no significant difference between 3-screw and 4-screw performance-wise, assuming you have the same needles and nozzles in both. The 3-screws have the ability to channel coolant through the base of the carb if you use manifolds from a '72-74, but other than that there's no preference, from what I've seen.

Your 240Z exhaust manifold will not fit (properly) if it is a round-port head.