Arne

Dave, I'm fairly certain that with ZG flares and cutting, you should be able to get a 17x8 or 8.5 under the rear. I'd normally recommend a 245/40 rather than a 245/45 due to the 45 being taller. I don't know off-hand what effective offset (true offset + possibly spacers) would be needed to clear the strut tube, but with the flares it shouldn't be too tough to do. If I had your car in my garage I could take a few measurements and we could figure it out. Send me an email when you get the rear suspension put back together. On the front, I think the 17x8 with 245s might be pushing it a bit. I'd normally recommend 17x7 or 7.5 in front with 225/45s. With the proper effective offset we can definitely fill flares up front nicely too.

GIMP is free, and powerful. But it's not always easy to install (I've heard), and the learning curve is said to be similar to full-bore Photoshop, as the program itself has similar capabilities. For your average home user, PS Elements is a very good affordable option.

I tend to agree with Dan. The later Series 1 cars had underhood stickers that certified they met 1971 emissions requirements. As a guess, I'd say that from 8/70 or 9/70 they started using the so-called 'flapper' airbox.

The filename of Chris' image includes '72', so that's my guess. I's a bit different than my '71, but not much.

Arne doesn't have much experience going that wide on a Z. But after sketching it out a bit I feel fairly safe in saying that wheels of that width with that offset would require spacers, coil-overs and possibly flares to fit on a Z. You're dealing with two separate issues here - one is that there isn't that much clearance to the inside, deep positive offset wheels will hit the strut tube. Coil-overs give more clearance, but I think you might still need spacers to boot with that much offset. (The +13's will have 5.5" backside, the +25's will have 6.0". Too much for a Z.) But even with coil-overs and appropriate spacers to tuck them in as far as they can go, 9" wide is probably going to have fitment issues at the fenders too. In short, they could probably be made to work, but it will be very expensive (past the expense of the wheels themselves), and require a lot of modification and work.

You have to have a decent image editing program, MS Paint or iPhoto won't do it. Full Photoshop is the obvious example, but there are others. I used Photoshop Elements, which is a slightly slimmed down version for home users, costs about $80.

Same here with my dealer, except they no longer make me pay in advance for a special order. I pay when it arrives.

No sleeve. There was originally some sort of thread sealer there.

Sheer conjecture on my part, for both the Port of Entry and the selling dealer. Remember that it isn't really a scan of my car's sticker, it was for a different car entirely. As I recall, the original scan that I Photoshopped said the POE was Houston.

The one I posted is correct for a late '71. The one Zulaytr posted looks to be for a '72.

I'm on board with this too. There are plenty of nice performance mods that are totally reversible later. Everything I've done to mine is strictly bolt-on and easily restored to stock - with the exception of the holes I had to drill to mount the front spoiler.

Don't mind at all. It prints pretty well to a normal 8 1/2 x 11 sheet of paper. Trim the margins and it looks about right. Don't know the original size for certain since I haven't seen one in person recently.

Can't remember where I got the original from, this copy for 1971 has been Photoshopped with my car's data.

Waiting patiently... :tapemouth

I had my glass professionally installed, and the glass guy said the same thing - "Those tools don't work." He did it as Nigel suggested - installed the trim in the rubber before mounting it to the car.

Cut it out with a razor blade. Simple and quick.

But none of those are the early rounded knob style, even for the choke knob itself, let alone the throttle knob.

We still don't know - was the dash you installed also from the same year? And preferably of a similar month's production? There are many, many wiring differences between the different years, and often even between different build dates of the same year. You could well have a dash harness and switches that aren't compatible.

Didn't know Danny had any cars left. He's been slowly liquidating his stock over the past couple years. I've bought several parts from him since I got my first Z in '05. Glad to hear he still had what you needed.

I really like this option. This is the way I'd go.

The offset IS marked on the wheel, if you know the code. In the picture Carl attached, there is a pad at 3:00 with "ET 15" stamped on it. I can't recall what exactly "ET" stands for, but it really means "offset" in millimeters. So these are +15 mm offset, which will keep them nicely tucked into the fenders.

I'm with DeMoore. Every time I or someone I know has tried to help a guy out by not doing the insurance thing, I/they have gotten burned to some degree or another. Don't know about shops in your area, sorry.

Has a nice stance. Good presence as it shows its taillights to the cars it passes!

This could be tough to pull off while we are in the economic doldrums now. It takes a pretty hefty quantity to get the spring winders to justify running a batch. And it's very tough to get that many people to commit ahead of time. Last time, Courtesy Nissan pulled it off - they bought the whole run, then sold sets to the original group that pre-ordered them and kept the rest to sell to the general public. The state of the auto industry being what it is now, I think it'll be hard for a company like Courtesy to devote that kind of cash to an off-the-wall project like this. Money is simply too tight right now. Which means you'd need to get enough people signed up ahead of time to cover the entire run, and they'd most likely have to pay in advance. And someone will have to coordinate the whole deal, which will take considerable time and effort. I don't know how large a run must be to get the spring winders to do a batch, perhaps Carl knows?

The club CD is a Nissan authorized PDF copy of the Nissan 240/260/280Z parts microfiche. Here is a sample screenshot: