Arne

Close, Chris. The proper name is the "Monroney sticker", named after the Senator who sponsored the bill that required them on all new cars. Snipped from Wikipedia:

Yeah, I'd guess that the lining came loose on one shoe. Easy enough to find out, jack it up and pull the drum and look.

#12746 still had metal emblems, 10/70. #37705 (7/71) has plastic, except for the pillars.

As a native Oregonian, I figured maybe I should respond here, add some comments, clear up some questions, etc. First things first - I don't support the House bill that started this thread. Totally stupid and unenforceable. I also am fairly comfortable that it will die in committee. But keep those cards and letters coming, folks! The gas-mileage/GPS thing was a concept test only. The concept wasn't totally stupid, but it is pretty much dead as the officials seem to agree that retro-fitting everyone's car with a GPS isn't going to fly - financially, or politically. The lack of self-serve gas is true, and is nothing new. There has never been self-serve gas in Oregon. The primary argument against self-serve historically was fire danger. Even commercial card-lock users have/had to read and sign an instruction and safety regs sheet from the state fire marshal's office. The state gas dealers' association has tried to get that overturned several times, it has always been voted down when it gets on the ballot. Jobs are now used as an argument to keep the ban in effect, but the big argument is still fire safety. Dave, the only times they are supposed to let you pump your own is on motorcycles, and even then they are supposed to hand you the nozzle and watch you pump it. (These days they seldom stand there and watch.) While I may just sit there while they pump fuel in my normal cars, I always get out and supervise on the Z. Going to a station with slightly higher than average prices helps too, they often have better pump jockeys. State road maintenance is supposed to come from gas tax. The tax here is 24¢ per gallon. That has been unchanged for 15 years or more. Worse, road repair (like everything else) costs a lot more now than it did 15 years ago. So repair funds were already pretty tight. And then when fuel use dropped when gas exceeded $4, the funds effectively dried up. A fixed percentage may not be the answer either, but some sort of sliding scale should be considered. Also, Oregon has had a weight/mile tax on commercial vehicles for a long time. Works well if the rate is kept up to date. Not workable for private vehicles, though. Oregon has been slow to raise the speed limits back up. State highways are all still at 55. Interstates outside metro areas are 65, and recently back up to 60 in metro areas.

I contacted Terry a while back about working on some of the old Appliance wheels I have. Didn't end up doing that, but emailed back and forth a few times and all seemed normal. I know the MikeB had his LeMans wheels refinished by Terry last fall. Took a while, but no other issues that I heard of.

Try Massey's Accessories in Oklahoma, (405) 239-2010. They still had four-ear caps a few months ago.

Try it now. That's not as far out of my zone as I figured. Last few trips to LA have been about a day and a half. Leave Eugene in the morning, spend the night in Santa Nella, then an easy cruise the rest of the way and lunch in LA. Of course, those trips have been in the 328i, which is a bit different way to travel. I normally cruise at 75 or so in the BMW, but that speed is a bit frenetic in the 240Z.Note to self - keep eyes open for a cheap Type A 5 speed...

Figures, Dave can't make it, but I just might be able to swing it this year. That's probably OK, I don't know that I'd want to cruise as fast in my 4 speed car as Dave would in his anyway! If I do go, I'm pretty sure you all know what I'd drive...

A 195/60-14 is over an inch shorter in height than the stock 195/70-14. You want a tire that is closer to the stock diameter to reduce the fender gap.

Dave, I'm fairly certain that with ZG flares and cutting, you should be able to get a 17x8 or 8.5 under the rear. I'd normally recommend a 245/40 rather than a 245/45 due to the 45 being taller. I don't know off-hand what effective offset (true offset + possibly spacers) would be needed to clear the strut tube, but with the flares it shouldn't be too tough to do. If I had your car in my garage I could take a few measurements and we could figure it out. Send me an email when you get the rear suspension put back together. On the front, I think the 17x8 with 245s might be pushing it a bit. I'd normally recommend 17x7 or 7.5 in front with 225/45s. With the proper effective offset we can definitely fill flares up front nicely too.

GIMP is free, and powerful. But it's not always easy to install (I've heard), and the learning curve is said to be similar to full-bore Photoshop, as the program itself has similar capabilities. For your average home user, PS Elements is a very good affordable option.

I tend to agree with Dan. The later Series 1 cars had underhood stickers that certified they met 1971 emissions requirements. As a guess, I'd say that from 8/70 or 9/70 they started using the so-called 'flapper' airbox.

The filename of Chris' image includes '72', so that's my guess. I's a bit different than my '71, but not much.

Arne doesn't have much experience going that wide on a Z. But after sketching it out a bit I feel fairly safe in saying that wheels of that width with that offset would require spacers, coil-overs and possibly flares to fit on a Z. You're dealing with two separate issues here - one is that there isn't that much clearance to the inside, deep positive offset wheels will hit the strut tube. Coil-overs give more clearance, but I think you might still need spacers to boot with that much offset. (The +13's will have 5.5" backside, the +25's will have 6.0". Too much for a Z.) But even with coil-overs and appropriate spacers to tuck them in as far as they can go, 9" wide is probably going to have fitment issues at the fenders too. In short, they could probably be made to work, but it will be very expensive (past the expense of the wheels themselves), and require a lot of modification and work.

You have to have a decent image editing program, MS Paint or iPhoto won't do it. Full Photoshop is the obvious example, but there are others. I used Photoshop Elements, which is a slightly slimmed down version for home users, costs about $80.

Same here with my dealer, except they no longer make me pay in advance for a special order. I pay when it arrives.

No sleeve. There was originally some sort of thread sealer there.

Sheer conjecture on my part, for both the Port of Entry and the selling dealer. Remember that it isn't really a scan of my car's sticker, it was for a different car entirely. As I recall, the original scan that I Photoshopped said the POE was Houston.

The one I posted is correct for a late '71. The one Zulaytr posted looks to be for a '72.

I'm on board with this too. There are plenty of nice performance mods that are totally reversible later. Everything I've done to mine is strictly bolt-on and easily restored to stock - with the exception of the holes I had to drill to mount the front spoiler.

Don't mind at all. It prints pretty well to a normal 8 1/2 x 11 sheet of paper. Trim the margins and it looks about right. Don't know the original size for certain since I haven't seen one in person recently.

Can't remember where I got the original from, this copy for 1971 has been Photoshopped with my car's data.

Waiting patiently... :tapemouth

I had my glass professionally installed, and the glass guy said the same thing - "Those tools don't work." He did it as Nigel suggested - installed the trim in the rubber before mounting it to the car.

Cut it out with a razor blade. Simple and quick.