Arne

A quick note - after hearing from another member here that his dealer wasn't able to get the check valves, I have confirmed that those valves are now shown as 'back-order' with no ETA. Not known whether any more will be offered in the future.

In theory, the 260Z bumper is/was heaver, reinforced, and I believe thicker top to bottom. I don't think '70-72 bumper guards will fit a 260Z bumper bar. In addition, the license plate mounts were relocated, I believe.

Oops! Forgot. Now I'm trapped in meetings. Maybe tonight.

You might try these guys, a lot of their stuff is the same as those used on 240Zs. Not sure if the radio connector on a 260Z is similar, but it's worth a look. http://www.vintageconnections.com/

I believe mine is flat, Randy. I drove the car to work today, I'll try to remember to look at it during lunch.

The replacement choke cable grommets that I have seen are not correct for '70-71 cars, Randy. I have not yet seen a source for the correct early grommet. Mine is a bit tatty, but I'm staying with it for now in hopes that the correct grommet may become available someday. The attached picture is the one that's currently available from Nissan, not the correct early grommet.

If you should ever decide you don't care for the sunroof, your car can be "un-hacked". I know this first hand.Successful skin graft (roof skin, that is)

Got my new Kenwoods last week, and installed them today. They are adequate for my simple needs, but certainly not anything special. But for use with a stock radio or something like the vintage Pioneer I am using, they are fine.

Thanks, Chris. The addition of your info now makes me think that Stephen's Nikki (see post #4) is not original, but is a later replacement. Same smooth cap, no raised bosses, no stamped numbers, and white paint on the center screw rather than the yellow of the originals. Very interesting!

Even with the part numbers? If you give them part numbers, I should think they'd order for you.

I suspect the drag on the cam is so little as to be un-noticeable. Try this for the block-off plate: http://www.thezstore.com/page/TZS/PROD/PP1/10-2081

Try it now. I re-uploaded the image.

For those of us with original fuel pumps on our 240 and 260Zs, those pumps are now at least 35 years old. Obviously, if they haven't yet been replaced, the time of need can't be far away. In most cases, the obvious answer is to simply replace the pump, either with a new mechanical pump or convert to a modern electric pump. But the original pumps were designed to be rebuildable. For those of us with restored or original survivor cars, rebuilding the original pump is one way to retain some of the car's originality. It's also surprisingly affordable. Of course, it's not as easy as it used to be. Many of the parts shown below are no longer available from Nissan. But the critical parts are. The diaphragm and the check valves are the parts that wear, and those are still available, as of February 2009. [B]17053-E3010[/B] - Diaphram - need one - #11 in [B][COLOR="Red"]red[/COLOR][/B] below [B]17065-21016[/B] - Check valves - need two - #7 in [B][COLOR="Blue"]blue[/COLOR][/B] below [B]17099-E3012[/B] - Pump to head gaskets - need two - #17 in [B][COLOR="Yellow"]yellow[/COLOR][/B] below In addition to those parts (which cost me $15 with my club discount), you'll want to have a couple of fuel resistant o-rings on hand to replace the seals shown as #8 above. Those seals were NLA, but my little o-ring selection had an appropriate replacement in it. But bear this in mind if you need to depend on getting this done in one operation - the old seals appear to have been cork, and will not be reusable. The new ones I used were square-cut, 3/4" O.D., 5/8" I.D., 1/16" thick. They worked perfectly. As for the process, it's very simple. I didn't take any pictures, but follow along with the diagram above. Remove the pump from the cylinder head. Then separate the upper and lower body halves (6 screws at the diaphragm seal). Once separated, remove the diaphragm from the lower body. You will need to depress the center of the diaphragm down (against the spring pressure) and then out (away from the cylinder head side) to disconnect it from the cam follower in the lower body half. Once disconnected, remove it carefully so as not to damage the shaft seal (under the spring, not shown above). The replacement diaphragm has a pair of flats on the end of the shaft to ease the installation. Insert it with the flats oriented to the front and rear, push down against the spring while holding the cam follower in the extended position, then turn the diaphragm 90 degrees to engage the shaft into the cam follower. The valves are both in the upper body. Note that one is face up, the other face down. Make note of which is which, because if you get them wrong, the pump will not work. Remove the retaining plate (#9) after removing the two small screws that clamp it down. Using a pair of needle-nose pliers, remove the valves. (I did mine one at a time to make certain not to mix them up.) Most likely part of the cork seal will come with the valve and the rest will remain in the seat. Carefully (don't damage the housing) remove all of the cork remains. Try not to let any fall into the upper cavity. If it gets in there, you'll want to get it back out to keep it from either clogging the pump valve or being pumped into one of the carbs, depending on which side it fell into. If necessary, remove the top cap (5 screws) to get into the cavity, being careful not to damage the rubber gasket under the top cap. Install the new o-ring seals, then the valves. Re-install the retainer and screws. Test the correct valve placement by gently blowing into the inlet pipe, and then attempt to suck back on the inlet. If you got the valve correct, you should not be able to suck back on it, but blowing through should be easy. The outlet pipe should be the opposite. To re-combine the two body halves, first make certain that the screw holes in the diaphragm are pretty much lined up with the holes in the lower body. Operate the cam follower arm to pull the diaphragm down flush, then set the upper body in place and secure it with one of the screws. (A third hand can be handy here. Another option would be to re-install the lower body back on the cylinder head and turning the engine by hand until the diaphragm is pulled down.) Continue with the other 5 screws, don't over-tighten them. Once assembled, operate the cam follower arm a few times, you should be able to hear it pumping air. Clean both sides of the pump spacer (#16) before installing the new gaskets (#17). Bolt it back to the cylinder head, attach the fuel lines and you are done. This will work well as long as the diaphragm and valves are still available. Another option for people bent on originality might be to purchase a brand new Kyosan Denki pump and transfer all its new parts into the original body. A bit more expensive, but perhaps worth it for some people. This post has been promoted to an article

Last spring when I painted my car, my dealer said there were several of the tinted-band Nissan windshields available. I had no problems at all finding a new, non-tinted-band aftermarket windshield.

All true. However, if the part in question is a Nissan part, it is probably still available directly from your local Nissan dealer. Generally no shipping charges, and (in my experience) often even cheaper yet than MSA. Don't get me wrong, I do buy parts from MSA. But I always check with my dealer first for OE parts. The classifieds and reviews are separate modules, I don't think they can easily be integrated into the "New posts" listing.But in the case of the Classifieds, you can subscribe to an RSS feed that will let you know whenever there is a new ad posted. To me, that's even better than the "New Posts" listing.

Here in the US, new Nissan windshield (when available) now have a darker tinted band across the top which the original 240Z glass do not have. I also suspect the markings will be different than the original, but can't say for certain. Since good used original glass is hard to find, and easily damaged in shipping, I went with an aftermarket windshield when I replaced mine. I didn't want the tinted band at the top.

The forum actually has a special area for parts reviews. It's listed under "Product Reviews" in the main menu to the left. Here is a direct link. Please repost these there. http://classiczcars.com/reviews/index.php

I bought mine direct from my Nissan dealer. No shipping, and the price was no more than MSA, maybe less.

My favorite is the so-called 'NOS' blue Nissan oil filters that sell on eBay for like $15 or more, plus shipping. My dealer keeps them on the shelf (no shipping) and sells them to me for less than $6 each with my club discount.Back on topic - I called up my dealer and had him order the two numbers visible in Randy's first post. He tells me today that the order was "held" (his words) due to the parts being "out of production". He's worked in Nissan parts since before the 240Z was released, and his comment to me was that status and reasons aren't the final word, and that he was going to leave the order active for a while. He said that sometimes "held" "out of production" items just magically show up after a few weeks. We'll see.

Welcome Daniel. I'm afraid you may not get a solid answer to your question, at least not right away. The 4-bbl Holley conversion is not well thought of, generally, and there's not going to be very many people here with a lot of experience with it. You might want to check with some local hot rod shops - tuning a Holley on a Z can't be all that different from tuning one on any other car.

Yup, the exact same rims, and other than the fact that my spook was built within the last 18 months, the same.Mine has a bit more than double the miles on it (>66k now), and has been repainted once when the sunroof was deleted. All the other mods on it can easily be restored to stock - steel fan, AM radio, Koito headlights, alternator, etc. I still have all the original parts other than the same splash pan and battery cover Randy mentioned, and I don't have either the original exhaust, nor the stock wheels and hubcaps. Here's a similar picture of mine, a larger version of my sig pic. The similarities (once past the color) are striking.

It IS a cluster up here! Seriously, there are still a lot of all sorts of old cars here. Those of you who think of the Pacific NW as a place of rain might be surprised to know that rust is not nearly the problem here that it is in most of the country. A bit more rust than So Cal or Arizona, but much less than most of the rest of the country. Never been any road salt here in Oregon, for example. And more than half of Oregon (geographically speaking) is high desert and fairly dry much of the year. So old cars simply last longer. As an example, I can recall visiting the DC-area about 10 years ago, and I never saw a single car older than about 10 years the entire trip. Out here it's very common to see various cars from the 60's and 70's every day. As an example, I drove my '71 Z to work today. On the way I shared the road with a 620 pickup, a '65 Nova, a early '70s Nova, a '67 Mustang, a early '70s Bug, and numerous '70s Chevy and Ford pickups. That's a typical commute for me, 7 miles through town. Out here a 30 year old car is just that - a 30 year old car, not necessarily a rust-bucket. If you shop carefully rust-free cars aren't hard to find at all.

Well, a replacement wouldn't be any newer, and might then die again in a short time. A proper repair would be more likely to last, assuming you can find a 'proper repair' for one.

The transmissions are all the same length. Use the driveshaft you already have. All '74-78 2+2 driveshafts are the same length, regardless of transmission.

First, your car is a 280Z, not a 260Z. That is shown by both the build date in '75, and also by the 'H' in the VIN. (A 260Z would start with an 'R'.) As for the rust in the fuel lines, I'll have to wait for more experienced people to chime in on what needs to be done. I've not had any rusty tanks in any of my 240Zs here in Oregon, and I have no knowledge of the fuel system on the fuel injected cars.