Arne

To clarify, the correct driveshaft to use is the one already in the 2+2. You need the extra length. The 2+2 driveshaft will fit the five speed just fine.

I'm far enough South that the sand is gone, and no salt was dumped down here. So the roads are as safe as they'll get, just got to watch for the crazies in their SUVs on their cell phones.

Atsugi? Oh my! A fourth brand! Can you get us a picture?

Ahh! More Appliance Wire Mags, in your case the 14x7 version. I have two sets of the 14x6 size, am getting close to finished on my refurb of one of the two sets. Very much period-correct, a relatively common wheel for Zs back in the day. Due to some previous owner-inflicted damage, I'm experimenting with painting the area around the lug nuts with various grays - similar to the tail trim color. The attached picture was taken a few weeks ago, the project is farther along now.

I've been driving mine to work all week. Cool in the mornings, but windows down and listening to that sweet six exhaust on the way home!

I just got another Nikki cover from Brian at ZCCJDM.com today. Don't know the build date of the donor car (I just asked today), but this one is also stamped 2501. Might not be date codes, maybe some other manufacturing code. Edit: Brian tells me it came from a '72. Month not known, and the car is history.

If I'm reading the A/F ratio correctly, you were running very fat (rich) once you got off idle. Which is typical for SUs with worn throttle shaft bushings. They leak in piles of un-metered air. If you set the mixture correctly at idle (with all the extra air leaking in), you'll be way rich once the throttles open and the leaks become far less significant. On the other hand, if you set the mixture correctly for open throttle, you'll be way lean at idle. The way you had it was way safer. Probably more power to be had even with just fresh SUs. Of course the current triples took care of that nicely....

Much the same in the Eugene-area. No organized clubs here. Tried to gather a group a couple of years ago, but it didn't take.

For L24 and L26 11826-E4600 through 6/72 11826-N3300 from 7/72 through the end of 260Zs Listed as: HOSE - ROCKER COVER TO AIR CLEANER

Hey, but free shipping...

Dunno, Dave. I've seen the tires on the back of Steve's Buick, and I don't think your Z could do them justice, even with a puddle!

My thoughts exactly....

1201? on a 2/71 car? Hmmm. Mine is 1701 on a 7/71 car. That sounds like a bit of a coincidence, doesn't it. Mike B, can you peek at the stamped numbers (if any) on your Nikki covers? Also, that is one more apparent confirmation that Nikki was the original supplier. Although Dave's K. Denki might indicate otherwise. But so far, all the known-unmolested cars through 5/72 have had Nikkis, and the Ampcos have been on '73s and 260Zs. Mostly consistent so far.

Like to? Sure! Able to do it on Friday? Not likely...

Side note - I wonder if the number stamped on my Nikki cover (1701) is a date code of some kind?

Thanks Mike. That appears to broaden the date range for the Nikki considerably. I've edited the earlier post to keep the date ranges current.

Thanks, Stephen. That tends to confirm that the Nikki was OE for late '71s.

I've got the stock height tires on my car. Like you, I prefer the vintage look of the small diameter wheel and tall sidewall. But I'm OK with period mags as long as I can keep the tall tires.

When Gary mentioned 'early Z' in this context, he meant all S30s - '70-78. As he noted, there is no rear alignment adjustments on any 240/260/280Z. But I'm thinking the other way. The 3" gap on the left rear sounds huge to me, even for a 280Z. I'm wondering if the LR strut might be totally or partially seized and holding that corner high. Have you tried bouncing each rear corner by hand?

Yeah, I ended up passing on the NOS wheels I was looking at, I think they're gone now. Decided that I didn't want to go to a shorter tire, which it looked like I would have had to do. Instead I'm refurbing yet another set of 14x6 Appliance Wire mags - this set will have fewer flaws in the polished lip, and will have the center area around the lug nuts painted the same gray color as the tail trim. Getting close on these now.

Good deal! I wouldn't think that someone would cut that off after removing the stock valance parts. That should ease the conversion immensely.

For tune-up specs and procedures, a '71 is the same as a '70, in case that's available online. Or you could use the online manual at Autozone. It's about the same as a Haynes or Clymer. http://www.autozone.com/shopping/repairGuide.htm?pageId=0900c1528007176d

Basic settings for tune-up and adjustments will be the same as for the original. The electronic ignition does not change how you adjust the timing, nor the spec. Same for the increased displacement of the L28. The actual adjustment of things like the carbs and such may be different, but the method is not.

No Jim, if I wanted a Denki I'd have simply bought a new pump rather than rebuilding the one I have. Like the '73 you have, the history on my car is pretty complete, and I'm comfortable that the Nikki pump on mine is original also. So at this point, we believe that: Edit: I will update these ranges as new data comes in. Nikki is OE for 10/69 - 5/72 Atsugi for 9/72? Ampco is OE for ?/73, possibly also a later replacement Kyosan Denki is a current replacement Anyone else?

You need one. Yes. Yes.