Arne

Anyone have any idea how many different suppliers made 240Z mechanical fuel pumps? I ask as I have been preparing to rebuild or possibly replace my original pump, and I'm finding that there appear to have been several OE manufacturers. These days, the new OE-style pumps seem to be made by 'Kyosan Denki'. But my original says 'Nikki', while a spare top cover I received says 'Ampco'. Any others I've missed?

Seems odd to me that someone would go to the trouble of cutting that center mount off the core support. Dang, that's going to complicate the job.

I have no idea when I'd make it to the Houston area, unless USENIX holds a conference like LISA there some day. But if they do, I'll make sure to look you up. :classic:

I've had three different '71s, one Series one and two later cars. I believe that all 6 original door panels had the courtesy lamp holes pre-cut but not removed. Could be wrong about them all having them, but I know for certain that I have seen those personally on at least one of my car's panels.

The Kenwoods I have coming are KFC-1351S.

The original was 5 1/4" round. If you are building your own bracket(s), other sizes may fit. But they can't be too deep nor have too much protrusion to the front (tweeters and such).

Time to take a good look at the parking light fuse. As mentioned above, I believe it is the middle fuse on the right.

After consulting with Dave recently, I ordered a pair of the Kenwoods that he recommended. I expect to get them next week some time. They were all of $21/pair from Amazon.

No, the gauge illumination should work any time the lights are on. But as I recall, the radio light is fixed brightness, while the gauge lights go through the dimmer rheostat. Is the dimmer turned all the way dim (off)?

Changing the points changes the timing. You need to readjust the timing. Do you have a timing light?

My MG is long gone, bought it, restored it, drove it daily for several years, sold it. Your diff will work just fine. Many people prefer to use a lower ratio (higher numerically) with a 5 speed. The factory 4 speed axle ratio is 3.36:1, other common ratios would be 3.54, 3.70, 3.90 and even 4.11. Some of the 5 speeds do have a bit taller lower gears, which is why people change ratios. My advice would be to install the 5 speed and drive it first, see what you like. If the low gears feel too tall, then consider a different ratio. But drive it first.

A good air dam should reduce drag, as they get the tires out of the air stream. But a spook still looks better on a 240Z to me...

I'm going to assume that you don't have a service manual. I'd strongly recommend that you get one soon. But in the meantime, you can use the online manual from AutoZone. Not perfect, but it will do what you need as a stopgap. http://www.autozone.com/addVehicleId,1449501/initialAction,repairGuide/shopping/repairGuide.htm?pageId=0900c152800717a1

I hear ya. I put overdrive in my B too. But since mine was a '67 with a good three-synchro 'box, I didn't have to much trouble finding a home for it.You wanna talk about giveaways - the same problem exists with good used L24 engines. No one wants them.

The addition of my ducted spook made a profound improvement in the car's stability at even low highway speeds - even 50-60 MPH. The improvement at 70+ is simply amazing. Crosswinds and passing trucks no longer bother the car. Probably the best single thing I did for the car.

The Club Parts CD: https://www.classiczcars.com/store/product_info.php?products_id=33&osCsid=2f6obvhrakn3sps7bf0otes3b3

You need to by a clutch that matches the year of the release bearing collar that you end up using. Since the used transmission may or may not come with the collar, the simplest way to ensure that it all works is for you to use the release bearing collar from the bad transmission and then buy the clutch for the year of the car.

As pictured here. Are you certain that they removed this on your car?

MSA offers the two corner pieces, but they're not cheap. Obviously, I too prefer the Spook on the early cars.

Remove the domes and pistons from the SUs for the duration of the test.

'70 an '71 240Zs had a different boot originally. If you're interested, this thread will give you all you need to know about the early boots -- and then some.Early shift boots

14056-E3001 - Coolant hose, engine side 14054-E3001 - Coolant hose, reducer 21501-E3000 - Radiator hose, upper Haven't found the three heater hoses yet. Heater hose, inlet Heater hose, outlet Heater hose, transfer

First batch. 21503-N3000 - Lower Radiator hose 14052-E4101 - Manifold hose, front 14055-E3000 - Manifold hose, rear More to come, don't have all my notes handy.

Bear in mind that the exact same shifter issues apply with most 4 speeds as well. You'd need to find one from a '70 or '71 to go in without mods. A '72 or later 4 speed still requires the same shifter mods as a five speed.As it happens, I do have a spare known good early 4 speed here in Oregon.

Can't say from personal experience. I've never owned one.