Arne

The Z will do it just fine. It's Deanna and I that aren't as good at long road trips as we once were!

I'm just bummed that it is so far away...

Yeah, it can all go. All you need is the PCV (like Gary mentioned), and the big vacuum hose for the brake booster. You'll also need a vacuum hose for the advance unit on the distributor, but that should come off the front carb, not the manifold. These pictures are not a totally fair comparison, the de-smogged car was my ratty yellow car (since parted), and the smog-equipped is my much nicer red car. With smog -- Without smog. Note that this picture was with automatic transmission and so it has an additional hose at the rear that you won't need for a manual transmission.

On the rear, you'll need to remove the hub to install longer studs. Not enough room between the hub flange and the backing plate to maneuver longer studs in. As for widening the rims (if I understand what you are asking), that may not be possible at all, as many of those three piece wheels were welded in addition to being bolted. Even if they were bolted only, replacing the outer rim with a wider one will be difficult to get done, other than at a specialty rim shop that caters to racing, most likely. It will also probably cost you more than the rims did. What offset are those? They look like a positive offset (FWD) to me.

I don't think that it matters whether you're East or West. You and your glass man need to be open to other brands than Nissan or PPG. Mine is neither, but is fine. He got mine out of Spokane, but found non-shaded ones in Philly and other warehouses too.

When I had my car painted late last spring, the glass guy had no problems locating several non-shaded windshields. I'm sure that it was no more than $150, and there was no shipping cost.

Welcome! This is a good site for S30s, lots of good info here. No, this site has never really used stickies, don't know why but we don't. Searching is your best bet for that kind of stuff. Also, while this forum welcomes all Z enthusiasts, it is heavily biased towards those who stick with the original L-series motors - not a lot of engine swappers here. For that, you may want to join HybridZ as well. Lots of us are members both places.

Ooohhh! I didn't even know Brian had these available! About time someone did this! http://www.zccjdm.com/catalog.php/azcarbum/ct/pd1859600/S30__FG_UNDERPAN_

First I think I'd wait until you talk with MSA, if you can. I'd hate to have something done to the new exhaust only to have to have it un-done once a replacement header arrives.This is one reason why I prefer to stick with stock manifolds for street use, as much as I love the sound of an inline six with headers.

I've been reviewing my notes on this for another person with the Euro springs, and I apparently cut 1.75 coils up front, and 2 full coils in the rear on mine. With your stock springs being a touch softer than my Euros, I'd cut 1.5-1.75 coils off the rear.

I've been to Steve and Toni's place. It doesn't look like a redneck neighborhood, but it is.

Later cars may not have had the recess on the quarter where the bumper sits. I'm not sure I see that on this panel. Compare to the attached picture of my car after paint.

I'm still not convinced that it truly is necessary for a normal street-tuned motor. Not that it would be bad, but I don't know that you'd notice much difference over what you now have. Are you suffering from symptoms of not having a enough spark now?

Use a degree wheel. You could probably make it more accurate than the factory did, if you are careful and precise.

The location and style of the timing indicator varied from year to year. I had a spare '73 L24 for a while, and it had the indicator on the left like yours with a single notch on the damper. But both my '71 L24s have/had a simple pointer on the right side with multiple timing marks on the damper. Which you use is no big deal as long as the damper and indicator match.

Not much need for an aftermarket pan back there. Remove the bumper, weld up the bumper holes and smooth it. You're done.

Are you talking about the outer grills, or the actual vent stuff inside the hatch?

As I understand it, the E12-80 is the trigger mechanism, it really has little or nothing to do with how hot the spark is, other than perhaps the duration and things like that. The coil (and whether you are using the ballast resistor) is the part that determines the "hotness" of the spark. I'd guess that a Blaster 2 should be plenty hot enough for most any streetable L-series. Just make sure you are making the most of that spark - use top notch wires, cap and rotor, and wide gap plugs. I'm running NGK BPR6EY-11 with the black Pertronix Flame Thrower coil in my L24. Works well.

Here's a few links to photos of some of this year's bigger events. If you show up at any of these events you're likely to run into a number of us here. Canby Driving Fun - Normally in early June Datsuns at Blue Lake Park - mid-August Mary's Peak Fun Run & BBQ - early Oct?

Joshua, there are several organized clubs serving the PDX region. Northwest Z is one, or there are a couple that cater to any older Datsun. There are also occasionally impromptu gatherings of non-affiliated Z owners, too.

It needs to be dealt with, yes. I think you'll find that it is much worse under the window rubber.

DOT 5 is not all that it is cracked up to be. Absorbing moisture (as DOT 3/4 does) is a good thing. With DOT 5, if any moisture does get into the system it simply migrates to the lowest points in the system (calipers and wheel cylinders) and sits until it gets flushed out. Generally, it causes rust and corrosion there before that happens. DOT 3/4 holds the moisture in suspension instead. I have used DOT 5 in special cases - notably on off-road bikes and ATVs where I'd change it very frequently. But I won't use it in a street car.

I still have it cached. Should have done this the first time.

I don't even know where to start on this one. Really, $68k??? :stupid: http://portland.craigslist.org/mlt/cto/987750868.html

Do some checking first to see if there are any mods you'd need to do to it to get it licensed and insured there. It may be subject to TUV inspection, which (I understand) are very comprehensive.