Arne

That ain't right, Steve. First, the little rubber envelopes that slip over the end mounting tabs are quite thin. They don't space it out a significant amount. Your pictures remind me of the bumper off my blue parts car that had been bumped gently in the center. The overall arc of the bumper was flattened out and the ends looked just like your pictures. I took a couple of shots of mine, trying to get close to the same angles as your pictures. (Not exactly the same, my sidemarkers hide the bumper ends if I match your camera angles exactly.) I also took a picture of the center to show how the bumper arc there exactly matches the front of the hood. That would be the first thing I would look at on yours.

All three of my 240Zs showed this. I have the original support strut on the red car now, still the same. I haven't found a way to adjust this out yet. Seems to be a 240Z calling card.

Go to your local Nissan Parts department, and ask them to order you a pair of part number B6370-E4100.

Yes, 195/70s should fit the ZX wheels and your car just fine. But a 195/70 should the same height as a 225/60. Are you certain that's the size you have on the wheels now?

First, no, there was not a matching right side mirror. Yes, you can mount a left mirror on the right side, but the angle of the stalk is then quite different. The left mirror is not symmetrical that way.

What fun! Now I'd like to see video of Carl's BRE car like that. Sliding sideways and slinging gravel, AWESOME!

No.http://www2.pictures.gi.zimbio.com/Children+Defense+Fund+17th+Annual+Beat+Odds+yu5CZ1Na69Yl.jpg

Unlike the later cars with 17 digit VIN, the earlier VINs don't contain much info on the car. An 'H' is for the L24 (240Zs) or L28 (280Zs) motor, or an 'R' for the L26 in a 260Z. The 'L' is for Left hand drive, and 'S30' is the chassis type. (S30 is the Z body up through '78 models.) A 'G' at the beginning indicates a 2+2. The rest is just a sequential serial number.

I doubt it. I never have...

Possibly, but finding a pre-assembled kit where ALL of the contents are identified and are known brands of high quality might be tough. I personally wouldn't bother to try. Try calling up one of these suppliers and ask them who is the manufacturer of the main bearings in their kit. Or maybe who makes the valve seals. See if they can even give you an answer. Far simpler to just buy the parts individually, that way I KNOW what I have in there.

The problem with pre-assembled kits is that you don't know the quality of the parts that the seller has gathered. Who made the rings? What material, chrome, moly, or cast iron? Are the bearings top quality? Are the timing gears hardened and top quality? These are the kinds of questions you can't answer with a kit. When rebuilding an engine, I always select and purchase my parts individually. That way I know I'm getting what I want/need.

I'm only aware of three places in the rear that it could leak, Stephen. One is the output seal, one is the shift selector shaft o-ring, and the last is the speedo cable drive o-rings. You've already done the rear seal, and generally the speedo drive is pretty obvious, so the selector shaft is probably it. Sorry...

IMO, yes. Assuming it was a true rebuild with a valve job. In fact, on a rebuild I might do my first check at 500 miles, and then again at 1000.

Yeah, IF I were in the market for a low-VIN car, I'd send him a message that said I won't bid until I've seen more of the car, know the VIN, and see the VIN stamp on the firewall. Without that, no bid.

It's easier for the server to compose and send a page if all the page elements are loaded from the server's disk and database, as opposed to having to send the page directly and then refer an image to a remote server. The CZCC server currently has more than 50 GB available for forum storage. No issues there.

That's what I thought. That's not the correct way to measure a rim. Yours are 14x6s. The measuring point for both width and diameter is inside the lip where the base of the tire's bead seats. But as a rough guide you can measure as you did from the lips and then subtract 1" from each dimension.

FYI - flickr can be blocked by webfilters just as easily as photobucket. In fact, since one of the reasons that organizations block sites like that is to preserve bandwidth, the more people start using flickr, the sooner it will be blocked as well. So don't count on flickr as being the final answer. All the more reason to actually upload and attach your photos directly into the CZCC site itself, rather than leech the images from a third-party hosting service. If they truly live here, they won't be blocked unless the entire forum is blocked.

Yeah, but you can drop the sway bar at the front two brackets very easily. Or raise the motor a bit. Either way works.

Any chance that you changed to a '70-71 mustache bar? That would also move the diff forward.

It gets slightly bigger if you click it, but not a lot. It's and old pic from before digital, and my scanner sucks.Yeah, the car turned out great. I drove it daily year-round for several years after I finished it. But unlike the Z, an old MG is rather crude, even by the standards of its era. A fine Sunday picnic car, but not as enjoyable to drive as the Z is.

Wing, those look like 14x6 to me, plus I don't think AR ever made 15" four lug in that style. In fact, in four lug all I recall was 14x6, not even 14x7. How did you measure them? If you measured from the outer lips in both width and diameter to get 15x7, then they really are 14x6. The correct place to measure from is the bead seat area.

The stock size for a 240Z was 175-14. Any of the following sizes are close enough in rolling radius to that size as to have no noticeable affect on the speedometer (less than 2% difference, typically). Note that some of these sizes may not be available any longer, and some have never been available in performance models. 185/75-14 197/70-14 (stock on 280Zs) 205/65-14 225/60-14 195/65-15 205/60-15 225/55-15 205/55-16 225/50-16 245/45-16 205/50-17 225/45-17 235/40-17 245/40-17 225/40-18 The key to speedo calibration is revs per mile, which is most accurately determined from the loaded rolling radius of the tire. To maintain your speedo accuracy, you want a tire with 825-840 revs per mile.

Me too. This is a prior garage occupant. I too did it all on this one, except the body/paint.

Sorry, I mis-read and thought you were talking about something on the outside under the hood. My bad.

Bonzi, the hand throttle linkage and mechanism was totally inside the car, I believe.