Arne

Not Appliance, even worse - they're Tru-Spokes. Since the spokes go clear into the air chamber, there will be a thick green plastic sealer inside the rim. Because the sealer molds into the spoke nipple, these rims can not be trued, even if the need it. They are also heavy, and as Stephen mentioned, are not a direct bolt wheel. If you just love the look, go for it. But there are a whole lot of compromises you need to accept to get that look.

I tend to prefer more "vintage" cars for my play-toys. But if it came down to it, I'd far rather have a nice Z32 than a new 350Z.

Ross, what's your budget, and do you have a preference for a particular year or model of S30? There's been a few really nice 280Zs offered down here in Oregon....

DynoMax's documentation claims it is not a simple turbo muffler. If they claim one end should be the inlet, I figure there must be some reason, even if it is fairly trivial. Otherwise why not allow the greater fitment options that reversing it would allow?

No, not overkill, just bad. On a 240Z with it's lower ride height, doubling bump stops will eat all your suspension travel. Pick one or the other.

I figured as much, but couldn't figure out why so many people would all install it wrong. But now I see. If 'center in, offset out' is the way it fits properly, then when it fits correctly the muffler itself is technically backwards. Because the Dynomax documentation shows that the inlet is supposed to be the offset.

Welcome. Ross! You'll find that there are quite a few knowledgeable S30 people up here in the Pacific NW. As you continue your search, you may want to visit a few local or regional club gatherings to meet a few of these folks, who can help advise you.

Interestingly, I've seen this conflict before. I know that there are lots of people who have complained about the MSA oval muffler hanging very low. But I also have heard of (and seen) numerous cars where the muffler was able to be tucked up neatly as pictured above. I don't know what the difference is...

Darn it, I've only got one spare, I'll need to start watching for another. One more item to make certain gets pulled from any Z being parted out.

You don't mention whether the axle flange itself moves with the halfshaft or or not. But from your description, it sounds to me as if you either have worn splines on that side, or possibly a worn u-joint on that side. If the axle flange is moving and the wheel is not, that would normally indicate bad splines. Edit: Here's a question - did you have the wheels bolted on the car when you tested this? If not, the drum could have been locked up, but the outer axle stub can still move a bit in the lug holes of the drum.

No. You need to start your resistance tests at the other end. You have a wiring problem, not a device problem. Start at the fusebox and work towards the devices.I'd unbolt the fusebox from the body and turn it over so that you can visually begin tracing the entire circuit. Don't trust wiring diagrams. Just a thought - when you have the fusebox turned over, trace the wire to the cigar lighter. That is also hot all the time, regardless of ignition.

Stephen, the 5 mA draw is probably correct, as the short will not be evident when the fuse is blown or removed. Since the circuits that fuse protects are all hot all the time, the ignition being on or off is immaterial. Here's the fact. You do have a short, and it is somewhere in the wiring that the blown fuse protects. Since you can't keep a fuse in it without blowing, continuing to look for a draw is pointless. If disconnecting the easily identified items it powers has no effect, you're going to have to look deeper. Time to switch to the ohmmeter. With the fuse removed, measure the continuity between a good ground and the protected side of the fuse (the part that goes to the devices, not the part that has 12v at all times). Since the fuse blows instantly, you should see very little resistance. From there, follow the wire(s) out of the fusebox and toward the devices, checking resistance as you go. This will take time and some contortions to get under the dash and trace the wiring. My guess at this point is that you either have some wire connected wrong somewhere, or a wire has rubbed through the insulation and is shorting directly to ground.

Keywords.

Yeah, I figured that MapQuest was the problem, as soon as I saw it. No matter, all turned out great anyway.

Darrell, what is the part number of the DynoMax that comes with the MSA kit?

I've been looking forward to this event, ever since I missed it last year. (I was rebuilding my transmission at this time last year.) Datsuns NW once again held a cruise and BBQ outside Corvallis. They meet at a rural park, drive from there to another park at the top of Mary's Peak (highest point in the Oregon Coast Range), and then back to the first park for a BBQ. Last year's event sounded fun, so I wanted to try to go this year. On Saturday morning a7dz and I headed up the back roads to Corvallis, and then on to Fort Hoskins Park. That in and of itself was a pleasant drive. There we met up with a group of Datsuns from Salem and farther North. It was a well attended event, with a good mix of vintage Datsuns. Unlike many events from the two NW Oregon Datsun clubs, this one was a bit lighter on 510s and pickups than most, with a higher than normal percentage of Zs and Roadsters. After a while, people started breaking into small groups and leaving for the 25 mile run to Mary's Peak. The first miscue was when one of our fellow CZCC members hit a deer on his way out of the first park. No real damage (a bent license plate) thanks to low speed and 280Z bumpers! Then there was a small problem with the maps provided, they directed everyone on to a gravel road that was gated at the far end. Oops! Luckily, most of us figured that out in short order and took the paved roads instead. Said roads were all reasonably well-paved, pleasantly curvy, and had relatively light traffic this weekend. A good time, even for those of us not willing to drive as hard as some of the group does. After photos and chit-chat at the top, we all drove back to Fort Hoskins, where the club barbequed ribs and burgers for all of us. Finally around mid-afternoon, the group began to break up and trickle back home. The drive home (back roads again) was also quite pleasant. A very good day. I posted some pictures here: http://www.classiczcars.com/photopost/showgallery.php?cat=3524 More pictures are welcome. Mike, Gary, Kyle? One of you must have taken some pics?

It finally occurred to me today what my true answer to this poll is. The kind of shows that I really enjoy are the ones that involve driving my Z. Driving to and from the show, and even better if driving is part of the activity. Which really means I prefer club cruises, group picnics, and such-like over park-your-car-and-sit shows. I can only look at cars for so long, then I want to drive....

The factory emblem is plastic all the way through. Good idea, though. I'd considered trying to find something to clear-coat mine to hide the crack.

I probably would if the garage were tall enough. Then again, our climate is mild enough that I can (and do) drive my car regularly throughout the winter. So storage would not be my goal.

Actually, I do know of a guy who is custom fabbing a supercharger setup for the L-series engines, with an eye towards marketing a kit when he's done. He's not ready to share details yet, so that's all I'll say right now.

As far as I could find after a bit of searching, no replacements are available. The emblem discs from the current production knobs are visually different (different font, mostly), but even those are not available separately. I decided to live with a single small crack in mine, rather than go with the larger current knob with the incorrect type-face. It may not be perfect, but it is original and correct.

The 'tool' shown in the 1971 FSM is similar to what Stephen does. I didn't have to go to that extreme, mine came loose with the weight of the car on the ground, my son with his foot on the brakes, and me using a home-made 4 foot breaker bar (18" bar with a floor jack handle slipped on the end).

Side note - do you still have the car, Asta? Did you decide not to sell it?

You might be surprised either way. My car is truly at 66,000 miles, the odometer hasn't turned over. As Stephen mentioned, I have some documentation from prior owners to back that up. Not as complete as I'd like, perhaps, but better than most. On the other hand, the drivetrain of these cars is very durable. There are more of these cars than you might think with over 200,000 or even 300,000 miles on them, especially here out West.

Left is the original. Details on that discussion are in the thread linked below, starting mostly with post #42.http://classiczcars.com/forums/showthread.php?t=22039