Arne

Be warned, I've talked to him about this. He has what it takes to restore an existing harness, but his work is VERY expensive. And if the existing harness needs extensive repair, the price for each sub-harness (dash, engine and body) is far more than a parts 240Z with a decent wiring harness normally goes for.

That's been discussed before. Problem is that there are too many different variations to build. Probably impossible to make money on it.

They don't. No, you are right. a '73 harness is much different than your '71. In fact, it is much worse than you know. There were several different harnesses for '71s alone, depending on when the car was built, and whether it had an automatic. I documented 6 different dash harnesses for '71s, and I think 4 different engine compartment harnesses. You'll need to determine what harnesses will work for you before you start hunting.

I'd bet on a bad fuel pump...

True. But if this is true... ...it should be fine. Assuming that it truly WAS rebuilt at that point, not just refreshed.

Come on guys, he asked a serious question. You might find mine a bit boring, it's just the factory stock knob. But I like it.

I can't say for certain about a '78, but the style and construction looks very much the same as the original cable on my '71.

This too is normal, Chris. The stock 240Z has less-than-stellar aerodynamic qualities. A front air dam or spoiler will bring a very noticeable improvement.

In my experience, yes. It can be virtually impossible to get those out if they are badly rusty. On one of my stock manifolds, they had become one with the manifold casting. If you are thinking about swapping to headers later, I'd let it be. Because if you break one off and can't plug it, you'll have a nasty exhaust leak.

Brake squeal is high-frequency vibration. The pads are moving in the new caliper. My luck with the goop you put on the back of the pad has been terrible over the years. All it seems to do is quiet it for a short time, and make a mess of the back side of the pad. First, make certain you correctly re-installed all of the shims and tension springs. Instead of the thick goo, I use a good synthetic brake grease on the pad backing plate. A very thin smear on the back side where the piston touches, and on the edges of the pad backing plate where ever there is evidence of metal-to-metal contact (i.e. polished spots).

WRONG! It turns out that even 'Super Moderators' can't change a username. We'll need to wait for Mike.

Welcome to ownership! Now the real fun begins. Like the others, I'm waiting to see the pictures. You have to ask a moderator to do it for you. Send me a PM with your preferred new username and I'll give it a try.

Plus the intermittant wipers, and retractable seatbelts. I'm with Doug on this one, a '73 is the best car to start with for a driver.But again, even more important is to find the most rust-free example, regardless of year. I'd have taken a '73 in a heartbeat, but a '71 is what I found.

Was a lot more car than a Pinto, too. A guy I went to High School with had a 610 coupe. Darned nice car, for the day.

I merged the two threads, guys.

Jim, I moved this to a separate thread, where it can be more easily found by others later. I assume you have the Toyota 4X4 calipers on your car? If so, slightly grinding the caliper is one option, the other solution would be a thin (3 mm or 1/8") spacer on the front.

Most certainly.

If parts are sold new on eBay, that always means I can buy them from my local dealer for far less (often half), and pay no shipping.

My wife bought a '74 B210 hatch (4 speed) in late '75 or so, shortly out of high school. We drove that car on our honeymoon on '77, sweltering in the August SoCal heat (no A/C) but getting in excess of 35 MPG. Sold it in '79 to raise a down payment on our first house. It was a fine car really, did exactly what it was designed to do, no more, no less.

I believe Stephen is correct. The return spring was only used on the early cars with the adjustable slave pushrod.

Not long. I took it to the painter about a week after getting it back. The details of that are in this thread:http://classiczcars.com/forums/showthread.php?t=30588 Yeah, all S30 coupes (not 2+2s) have the same roof skin.

I split this out into a separate thread, since it wasn't tire related. Here's what I did, others are welcome to chime in if they did something different. I ended up with 9 stainless bolts across the front. Each bolt has a large fender washer both above and below, to distribute the stress. The first picture shows where I drilled the holes.

I downloaded it, converted it to a jpg, and tried to reduce the glare on one copy. I've attached both jpg versions here to save the download for others.

I think the fuel tank on the '77-78s is larger.

Edit: Will types faster than I do... Welcome, Kris. This forum is much broader than HybridZ. There are members here who have Zs with engine swaps and other wild things, pure race Zs, bone-stock trailer queens, and everything in between. The typical 240Z here is going to have at least a few mods, so don't be afraid of researching things like that here. The archives are PACKED with info on most anything that can be done to a Z, so play with the Search function a bit to get a feel for what you can find. A couple of tips for your search. It is going to be difficult to find a rust-free example in your neck of the woods. They can still be found here in the West with a little effort, so you may want to consider a visit to the left coast for your search. Also, while it has been said in various places that the '72 240Z is the 'preferred' year, I'd strongly recommend that you don't limit yourself to that single model year. It is true that the '72s have several improvements over the '70 and '71s, and don't have the government-required slightly larger bumpers and despised emissions-carbs of the '73s. But most of the improvements can be installed on the earlier cars, and the '73s are even better yet once you swap for the earlier carbs. The same is true of the early (small-bumper) 260Zs, swap the carbs and they are great cars. Since rust is such an important issue, if you find a rust-free car, don't worry about what year it is - just buy it!