Arne

If the potential buyers are first time Z people, they may not realize that red is rare - just different. Same car with a black interior, may have drawn more bids from more people. Or not, just a guess on my part.

Actually, I suspect that if that car had been almost any other color combo, it would have sold for significantly more. I think white/red probably held the bidding down. First-time 240Z buyers haven't yet learned that you want the best you can find, regardless of color.

Someone has asked about these once before, but I can't find the thread. I can't remember if the consensus was that they were a custom one-off, or if there was a small Japanese company that was making them for show car use. Either way, I doubt you could get them past MoT.

Assuming your 260Z is the same as my '71 240Z, the flap goes under the filler neck flange.

I know this car was briefly discussed in a different thread, but I thought it deserved one of its own. Sold for $19,000, and worth every penny, IMO. Low miles and all original, offered by a seller who knows 240Zs. How could you go wrong? eBay auction link I wonder if the buyer is anyone we know?

Bob, take a trip to your auto paint supplier and look at the chips for the 'fleet' or 'commercial' colors. Some of the most vibrant non-metallic colors available are in that category. Some of the fleet oranges are going to have a lot more 'pop' than the typical auto colors.

I'm told that you take I-84 East out of Portland to Exit 207, which is supposed to have signs for Blue Lake Regional Park.

I know beandip is planning on being there, as well as a few other people. I'm also planning to make the drive North. Anyone else?

I seem to recall some rather strict California noise emission standards back in the day. Seems to me that many motorcycle exhaust makers offered a "CHP approved" version that was quieter. This may be what Ansa was doing also.

Do you have an owner's manual for it?

I checked the specs page from the parts microfiche, it listed everything except the weight. How about the Specs page from a FSM? And here's a thought - will they accept a scanned (non-original) copy? Or will they require you to show an original?

Hard to say at this point. McGinnis at Banzai claims the one piece is correct for '70-72. I'm fairly certain that the one-piece I took off the red car during paint prep was original. Add to that my assumption that the reason the one piece isn't in the parts fiche was because it was totally superseded, much like the early-style shift boot. The microfiche also shows the three-piece for the 280Zs. My copy of the fiche says it was updated in Dec. '79, well after the end of the 280Z run, so if the one piece had been the later replacement it should have been listed. For these reasons, I've assumed that the one piece was the earlier style. I could still be wrong, though...

My Series 1 (the old yellow car), the blue parts car (4/71) and the current red car (7/71) all came to me with the one-piece. I suppose it's possible that one or more of them had been replaced at some point, but all three?

Very true, Carl. The Japanese manufacturers realized that to truly make in-roads into the huge US market, their cars needed to survive under typical American conditions. And that included under-maintenance. The British (and to a lesser extent, the Italians) apparently assumed that the type of people who want a sports car would be willing to (and probably enjoyed) keeping it maintained. In a few cases, that was true. But in many cases that was false, and their reputations here suffered from it.But in my mind, that's no reason to perpetuate that bad reputation. Because even here in the USA many of those cars are now owned by the type of people they were designed for, and the lack of reliability is no longer a big issue.

Alan hit the nail on the head. It's not the British cars that are the problem, but typical American owners. People bought English sports cars who thought that changing the engine oil every 3000 mile is maintenance. Everything else is ignored until it breaks. Worse, the second (and so on) owners were people who bought the cars cheap, and often couldn't afford to maintain them even if they understood what maintenance was. We see the same issues here in the states in the typical worn out 240Z today. Alan, you commented about "extremely lax" inspections. The truth is worse - in many states there are no regular inspections at all! And in most of the rest, the bare minimums were/are checked. Consider this. In the USA, people consider the reliability of old English cars as a joke. But in England, the big issue is rust, same as for any other car of that vintage in a damp climate. Same cars, different results. Must be how they were taken care of here...

I agree with E. If the resistor or other ignition component were causing the problem, the car would run just as erratically as the tach. Sounds very much lice a dying tach to me. BTW, it's normal for the power to taper off a bit at that point, unless the engine is thoroughly modified.

I think Michael hit it on the head. I've got the tap and die set, but no longer have a disassembled car to use them on.

Doesn't much matter which it is, from an installation viewpoint. Either one is pretty much a straightforward swap into a 280Z. If you are using your existing clutch, use the throwout bearing and collar from the four speed, not the new five speed. You will probably want to use the speedo drive gear from the four speed as well. Other than those things, the rest is a straight replacement.

No, neither the location of the differential or that part of the sway bar are significantly affected by ride height.

Most Nissan dealers aren't going to have them in stock, no. My dealer gets such things for me with no shipping charges in a matter of 3-5 days.

Parts to rebuild the factory pump should still be available from Nissan. Exploded diagram and current part numbers attached.

No, but I am planning to be at the NWDOA Show-n-Shine at Blue Lake Park on the Columbia on the 10th.

The aftermarket fusebox is not a bad idea, but in reality it doesn't truly address the root problem, which is the convoluted way that the lighting circuits route the current, leading to excessive heat in the fusebox. This is a terribly common problem with 240Zs, and is best addressed by using relays to get the heavy current out of the factory wiring, fusebox and combo switch. Search this site for 'headlight relays' to see volumes of posts on this subject.

The weatherstripping that MSA sells is made by Precision. Same exact product.

Can't say for certain, but I suspect that is a "Targa Turbo" tip, which is now NLA. The 240Z model had a straight inlet (as pictured). Yours appears to be the 280Z model which had to hang a bit lower, and therefore had the crook in the ilet.