Arne

I think Mr. Blakeney is correct, Mr. Duff. Looks like you have the ZX fan to me. Here is a picture of the clearance i have on mine. i replaced my original metal fan and clutch with one from a 260Z. I have an inch, at least.

For any coming up I-5 from the South, I'll be leaving the Eugene area at 7:30. Meeting a couple in a 280Z in the Safeway parking lot on Q Street in Springfield at 7:20 or so. We should pass through the Albany area around 8:15 or so. We will probably stop for coffee there, then back onto the freeway. This should get us into the rest area no later than 9:30.For Northbound people to meet at the Southbound rest area, you want to go past the first Canby exit, and then past the rest area on the Northbound side, take the very next exit and swing around and back on to the freeway heading South. The rest area is only a mile or two from there.

Zeddsaver did the taillight trim for Jim (a7dz). I haven't seen the results in person yet, but Jim told me he is happy with the result. I'm looking forward to seeing the trim on Jim's car on Sunday. (Along with the rest of his car, too.)Mike, did you decide if you are bringing one of your cars this weekend?

From things mentioned in other posts, I think Bill is converting from auto to manual. So I gathered that he wanted to know where he could expect this spacer to live on his current project, not where to buy one. Could be wrong, thou, so Stephen's post is good info too.

On an automatic, there are spacers (as pictured above) on both sides of the flex plate. Typically, the spacer between the flex plate and the crankshaft stays well stuck to the end of the crankshaft, and actually appears to be a part of the crank. It must be removed before bolting on the flywheel.

Absolutely amazing! The weather is forecast to be GREAT for Canby! Sunny and mid-70s both days! Some of the nicest weather so far this year!

The 240Z cable works fine with a ZX transmission. No difference on the transmission end.

Hope you can see what you need here, and also sort out your parking light harness wires from the normal stuff. I found it's hard to frame the picture from the floor using an SLR. Can't get my head down there. Build date - 7/71 From the top: From the bottom: From the side:

Seatbelt manufacturers generally say to never attempt to dye or recolor the webbing, due to the possibility that whatever you use might cause deterioration of the material. Same reason you aren't supposed to paint a polycarbonate helmet.

You should be able to get generic metric hard lines from most any auto parts house. No need to mail order it and pay shipping costs. Not off hand, especially for a 280Z. Not too long, though. Yes. No, no effect at all.

That'd be me. I'm going to be in the garage tonight cleaning a bit more prior to Canby, will try to remember to pull the cover and take a couple pics. If I forget, you can prod me in person on Sunday.

Mike, I don't know what your ultimate plans for those two cars are, but despite how good they look, if you intend to drive the cars much you may want to have the belts restored anyway. I don't quite trust 38 year old nylon webbing. I will probably be sending mine off to Ssnake-oyl this coming winter.

Did Massey have the proper four ear center caps?

Mine was a two-door in BRG. Always loved that wood dash. My mom bought it new in '64. Drove the wheels off that little guy...

BTDT. Take my advice, go for the least rust you can find and afford, and don't worry about the engine or transmission. Dropping on a different L28, or converting an automatic car to a stick is nothing compared to dealing properly with rust. Paying a couple hundres more up front to get a better body will pay off many times over, even if it has no engine and transmission in it at all.

Mike, I'm another 10 years older yet, my first car was a '63 MG 1100. Basically the same as an Austin America, but a manual transmission and factory dual SUs. Think of it as the original Mini Cooper's slightly larger brother. Front drive cars were not common in those days, things have changed...

Update - Take a good look at the description Shelby uses for offset in the diagram on page 6. Their definition is backwards!! So their -1/2" offset for the Vipers is more shallow, not deeper. This makes more sense to me, as most Libres and clones (there's a word we never heard in the early '70s) have what we today all call a positive offset. This also means that the +9/16" offset on the 6.5" Sidewinders would make them very deep, a bit deeper than a 7" with zero offset. So I guess I only want the 5.5" set. :classic:

Really great stuff, Mike, thanks! Very interesting, especially to someone like myself who sold Shelby wheels in the early '80s. I find it interesting to note that the Viper is listed as having an offset of -1/2", rather than the zero offset of the AR Libres. I think I'd really like to find a matched set of Sidewinders for my car. I'd probably prefer the 5.5", but with the positive offset they list even the 6.5" should be OK. Good stuff.

Yeah, I love the fact that Jim's car has always - since brand new - been registered with that same plate. Incredibly cool.I had really hoped - since my best research indicated that my car was always from new an Oregon car - the the original owner might have still had the original plates stashed in the garage somewhere. Unfortunately, that was not the case. He changed to vanity plates when they first became available in the late '70s, and the original plates were either surrendered to the DMV, or discarded. So the best I could do was to find a pair of appropriate vintage plates. Close, but not quite as cool as the originals would have been.

If I'm understanding the problem correctly, the housing is not fine, the housing is the lower part that the t-stat sits in, and it is also the part where the stripped threads reside. (#38 in the attached picture.) Considering the dire consequences of failure in this area, and the low cost of the proper replacement part, I'd replace it rather than attempt to drill it out to a larger size.

Brand new thermostat housings for '70-72 240Zs (part #11061-P0300) are $22.47 from nissanparts.cc, and list for $29.48 from your local dealer before club discounts (if any).

Mike, I'd love to see this car in person, please tell me you've decided to bring it to Canby...

Here's my thoughts, for what they are worth. 1.) I believe that global warming appears to be real, but am not yet convinced that greenhouse gases are to blame, they could be enhancing a normal cyclical change. Even if greenhouses gases are not the root cause, that's no reason for us to refuse to attempt to mitigate the human effects. Ethanol DOES reduce greenhouse gases. 2.) All the fuel here in Oregon is now mandated to be E10 (10% ethanol). I have not noticed a significant problem in any of my vehicles, including the 240Z. I suspect that a lot of the bad effects that people complain about are from vehicles that are poorly maintained in some way or another. Did a short road trip in the BMW today, got a full 31 MPG, which is the same as I normally get on this trip over the past few years. No noticeable ethanol mileage reduction. 3.) All that said, I don't support the current ethanol programs. It's been pointed out by numerous biologists and agricultural engineers that corn is a lousy source of ethanol. Not because it doesn't make good ethanol, or any problem with the conversion, but because corn - as a crop - is heavily petrochemical dependent. If we truly want to help reduce our dependence on foreign oil (a VERY good idea, IMO), we should be making our ethanol out of something that grows and is harvested with as little petrochemical involvement as possible. Corn is not it. There are numerous other crops that would be better suited. But - like it or not, ethanol in our fuel is probably here to stay - so clean your fuel system, replace your fuel lines and filters, and make the best of it.

I agree with the above. Here on the West coast, people have problems GIVING away a Z in that condition. No way I'd pay much at all for a car like that unless it had something in particular I wanted - like a nice clean set of vintage wheels, or something.

Worse, the 14x7s are -9. Too deep IMO, just begging for clearance problems.