Arne

Update - Take a good look at the description Shelby uses for offset in the diagram on page 6. Their definition is backwards!! So their -1/2" offset for the Vipers is more shallow, not deeper. This makes more sense to me, as most Libres and clones (there's a word we never heard in the early '70s) have what we today all call a positive offset. This also means that the +9/16" offset on the 6.5" Sidewinders would make them very deep, a bit deeper than a 7" with zero offset. So I guess I only want the 5.5" set. :classic:

Really great stuff, Mike, thanks! Very interesting, especially to someone like myself who sold Shelby wheels in the early '80s. I find it interesting to note that the Viper is listed as having an offset of -1/2", rather than the zero offset of the AR Libres. I think I'd really like to find a matched set of Sidewinders for my car. I'd probably prefer the 5.5", but with the positive offset they list even the 6.5" should be OK. Good stuff.

Yeah, I love the fact that Jim's car has always - since brand new - been registered with that same plate. Incredibly cool.I had really hoped - since my best research indicated that my car was always from new an Oregon car - the the original owner might have still had the original plates stashed in the garage somewhere. Unfortunately, that was not the case. He changed to vanity plates when they first became available in the late '70s, and the original plates were either surrendered to the DMV, or discarded. So the best I could do was to find a pair of appropriate vintage plates. Close, but not quite as cool as the originals would have been.

If I'm understanding the problem correctly, the housing is not fine, the housing is the lower part that the t-stat sits in, and it is also the part where the stripped threads reside. (#38 in the attached picture.) Considering the dire consequences of failure in this area, and the low cost of the proper replacement part, I'd replace it rather than attempt to drill it out to a larger size.

Brand new thermostat housings for '70-72 240Zs (part #11061-P0300) are $22.47 from nissanparts.cc, and list for $29.48 from your local dealer before club discounts (if any).

Mike, I'd love to see this car in person, please tell me you've decided to bring it to Canby...

Here's my thoughts, for what they are worth. 1.) I believe that global warming appears to be real, but am not yet convinced that greenhouse gases are to blame, they could be enhancing a normal cyclical change. Even if greenhouses gases are not the root cause, that's no reason for us to refuse to attempt to mitigate the human effects. Ethanol DOES reduce greenhouse gases. 2.) All the fuel here in Oregon is now mandated to be E10 (10% ethanol). I have not noticed a significant problem in any of my vehicles, including the 240Z. I suspect that a lot of the bad effects that people complain about are from vehicles that are poorly maintained in some way or another. Did a short road trip in the BMW today, got a full 31 MPG, which is the same as I normally get on this trip over the past few years. No noticeable ethanol mileage reduction. 3.) All that said, I don't support the current ethanol programs. It's been pointed out by numerous biologists and agricultural engineers that corn is a lousy source of ethanol. Not because it doesn't make good ethanol, or any problem with the conversion, but because corn - as a crop - is heavily petrochemical dependent. If we truly want to help reduce our dependence on foreign oil (a VERY good idea, IMO), we should be making our ethanol out of something that grows and is harvested with as little petrochemical involvement as possible. Corn is not it. There are numerous other crops that would be better suited. But - like it or not, ethanol in our fuel is probably here to stay - so clean your fuel system, replace your fuel lines and filters, and make the best of it.

I agree with the above. Here on the West coast, people have problems GIVING away a Z in that condition. No way I'd pay much at all for a car like that unless it had something in particular I wanted - like a nice clean set of vintage wheels, or something.

Worse, the 14x7s are -9. Too deep IMO, just begging for clearance problems.

Google is your friend. http://www.buywheelstoday.com/products/Rewind+%28Graphite+w%2F+Machined+Lip%29.bwt

Not interested. I don't eat or drink in my cars.

May I suggest that you do as I do? I'm not a club member either, don't have the time to dedicate to that. So I pay no attention to the politics and such.I'll happily spend the $5 to attend and park inside at Canby, and spend the time visiting with friends, meeting new people, and looking at cars. I've had a great time there both years I've gone, and all the politics has affected me not at all.

Warren, I might have a decent used pair. Send me a PM if you're interested.

I received my new copy of MSA's catalog on CD yesterday. The main part is a 130MB searchable PDF. It appears to be exactly the same content as the latest printed version, but the prices and availability codes have been updated. I think that you have to request a copy on their web site, I don't think they'll be mailing them to everyone automatically. It is free, however. Here's a link to the request part: http://www.thezstore.com/page/TZS/PROD/ZCAT2C

I saw that one on TV the other day. The car appeared to be a stripped and gutted 2+2. My wife even commented that at least they didn't trash a coupe... :tapemouth

Nope, wood screws don't always have threads all the way to the head, but sheet metal screws do. Very different.

I agree that black would be better, less distracting while driving. So if that's what others have as well, I'll repaint this set. Thanks!

As I continue cleaning and reassembling my car, I've come across a question. The black metal filler panel (in front of the dash pad at the base of the windshield) is retained by five sheet metal screws. The finish on the screw heads of mine have me wondering what is correct. Mine appear to be chrome screws that have had their heads painted black. The black paint is chipping off all of them, leaving a mottled finish. I could see them being either black or chrome, and if they were all five the same and in good condition (with either finish) I would never have given it a second thought. But as they are, I need to figure out which finish is correct. Right now I'm leaning toward chrome, and that the original owner painted them black at some point in the past. Any confirmations for either finish from 240Z owners?

My Z will be driven to Canby, showers or not. After all, with all new rubber (and no sunroof :classic: ) it shouldn't leak!

Space is somewhat limited, so logistics of where they put different cars/group/tables/etc. is a bit time consuming. The early cut-off gives them concrete data as to how many cars of what type they have to group together in the 'judged' area. This has consistently been one of the largest complaints leveled at the organizers of this event. But in reality, given that it is put on by a relatively small group of volunteers, it is an amazingly well put together and attended event.

I went the other way. I ditched the modern Oregon plates for a set of vintage plates. A mild inconvenience and expense, but they look 'correct' on the car to this old Oregon native. I did have a bit of luck, in finding August plates to put on my July production car.

You added that one for me, didn't you, Will? Thanks!!

OK, I didn't watch the video, but once Will described it, I realize that I have already seen this some time back. Pretty sad...

An interesting concept. How will you judge Z content?

Ditto.