Arne

Google is your friend. http://www.buywheelstoday.com/products/Rewind+%28Graphite+w%2F+Machined+Lip%29.bwt

Not interested. I don't eat or drink in my cars.

May I suggest that you do as I do? I'm not a club member either, don't have the time to dedicate to that. So I pay no attention to the politics and such.I'll happily spend the $5 to attend and park inside at Canby, and spend the time visiting with friends, meeting new people, and looking at cars. I've had a great time there both years I've gone, and all the politics has affected me not at all.

Warren, I might have a decent used pair. Send me a PM if you're interested.

I received my new copy of MSA's catalog on CD yesterday. The main part is a 130MB searchable PDF. It appears to be exactly the same content as the latest printed version, but the prices and availability codes have been updated. I think that you have to request a copy on their web site, I don't think they'll be mailing them to everyone automatically. It is free, however. Here's a link to the request part: http://www.thezstore.com/page/TZS/PROD/ZCAT2C

I saw that one on TV the other day. The car appeared to be a stripped and gutted 2+2. My wife even commented that at least they didn't trash a coupe... :tapemouth

Nope, wood screws don't always have threads all the way to the head, but sheet metal screws do. Very different.

I agree that black would be better, less distracting while driving. So if that's what others have as well, I'll repaint this set. Thanks!

As I continue cleaning and reassembling my car, I've come across a question. The black metal filler panel (in front of the dash pad at the base of the windshield) is retained by five sheet metal screws. The finish on the screw heads of mine have me wondering what is correct. Mine appear to be chrome screws that have had their heads painted black. The black paint is chipping off all of them, leaving a mottled finish. I could see them being either black or chrome, and if they were all five the same and in good condition (with either finish) I would never have given it a second thought. But as they are, I need to figure out which finish is correct. Right now I'm leaning toward chrome, and that the original owner painted them black at some point in the past. Any confirmations for either finish from 240Z owners?

My Z will be driven to Canby, showers or not. After all, with all new rubber (and no sunroof :classic: ) it shouldn't leak!

Space is somewhat limited, so logistics of where they put different cars/group/tables/etc. is a bit time consuming. The early cut-off gives them concrete data as to how many cars of what type they have to group together in the 'judged' area. This has consistently been one of the largest complaints leveled at the organizers of this event. But in reality, given that it is put on by a relatively small group of volunteers, it is an amazingly well put together and attended event.

I went the other way. I ditched the modern Oregon plates for a set of vintage plates. A mild inconvenience and expense, but they look 'correct' on the car to this old Oregon native. I did have a bit of luck, in finding August plates to put on my July production car.

You added that one for me, didn't you, Will? Thanks!!

An interesting concept. How will you judge Z content?

Ditto.

Adjustable struts (such as Tokico Illuminas) won't change the ride height at all. But you could firm up the damping so that it doesn't bounce down as quickly. That would - of course - cause a significant increase in ride harshness.

Yes, that might work well. But I'm very pleased with my cut-down Euro springs. Nice ride, stock height (even with the gas struts). Cutting the Euros down seems simpler to me than fine-tuning the 280Z insulators.

Hmm. My '71 pings noticeably on 89, even with the timing set to 5° BTDC. Might have to look into it a bit.

I run 92 in my '71. Later cars have lower compression ratios and might be able to use less octane, but the '70-71s typically will ping on lesser grades (in my experience). The original intake valve seats in a 240Z were bronze, so if the head has not been re-done with steel intake seats, there is the possibility of valve seat recession. I'd be concerned if you were going to drive it really hard, or a lot. But for a typical stock weekend driver, I wouldn't be too worried about it. Some day (if you keep it long enough and drive it enough miles) when it needs a valve job, have the seats replaced. Until then, just drive it.

Yeah, I'm actually surprised at how quick it all went down myself. I'll finish reassembling the interior this weekend, which means from the first trim removal for the roof job to totally complete will be exactly 6 weeks to the day. Rather amazing. The guy that did the paint has done other 240Zs in the past (part of the reason I selected him), and he said he was amazed that he couldn't find any rust anywhere. Said he'd never encountered a truly rust-free 240Z before. Made me feel pretty good.

New factory springs have been unavailable for quite some time. Courtesy Nissan -- with assistance from Carl Beck and others -- did have a batch of reproduction stock replacement springs made up, as well as reproductions of the European Stage 1 springs. I believe that they have sold out of the stock replacements, however. Possibly sold out of the ES1 springs by mow, too. I seem to recall that Arizona Z Car's 240Z springs are designed to not lower a 240Z, but they are considerably higher spring rate, and so the ride will be significantly firmer. I have the Courtesy ES1 springs in mine with KYB gas struts. The springs are cut down to give the stock ride height. Works quite well, I think. My factory stock springs are in great shape, but are not for sale.

I'll have to look at mine again, but I think mine are also in a sealed plastic bag, like Stephen's.

In addition, I think most Zs also had a small bag with four spare lug nuts. At least my late '71 did, and I've seen others with them too. Like Ed, I have no clue on the green strap.

That might be OK with Gary, but probably not so much with "She who must be obeyed".

Garden variety Z hubcaps for 240-260-280Z, from '72 through '76.