Arne

Sweet setup, Rosco!

3.0Ω coil should not have the ballast resistor connected, and if you have a condenser connected to the coil, remove it. I had that problem due to having a condenser connected to the coil.

Rob, there is an online spreadsheet for VINs at http://www.editgrid.com/user/mlwilliams/Z_Car_Registry and there are numerous "retired" cars listed there. FWIW, the vented hatches (and all the rest of the Series 1 stuff) ran through VIN ~20000 or so. Some of the cars right around that point had a mixture of Series 1 & 2 parts. The vertical defroster grid ran part-way through the '72 model year.

We'll need to wait for Mike on this one, folks. I'm not sure if the "New Posts" parameters are stored in a cookie, or in the DB. Whichever, it sounds like something is not refreshing properly.

Mike, I'm a subscriber to this mag, you're welcome to swing by and borrow it. I will want it back, however. Give me a call when you're in town.BTW, the article also profiles Datsun Roadsters and Hakosuka Skyline GTR in addition to the 240Z.

No, there are significant dimensional differences between the early and late strut inserts. I wouldn't mess with them. The correct KYBs aren't all that expensive.

I'd guess those are quite rare here in the US. I've never seen a set in person before, and after almost 25 years in tires/wheels here on the West coast, I've seen a lot of unusual wheels. I've never been a fan of most of the true JDM wheels, but those aren't half bad. Nice find!

I'm not certain how bad yours is, but my switches were very comparable to other import cars of that era. Very similar to my MGB, for example. Certainly didn't bother me.

At this point, we can rule out hacking, and I'm pretty confident that it wasn't aliens. Still digging for the root cause.

What he said. Strip it naked. I removed everything external. Made for a very nice job.

Replied via email.

Yes, please. Email address coming to you in PM. Please include headers, if possible.

Sorry, Mike, but I don't buy it. I can not envision anything in the limited cookies that vBulletin puts on a client computer that could cause this. I'm wondering about two things - recurrance settings for donations, and odd permissions for the custom "Supporting members" group.

I have no idea what's happened here, but it sure does't seem normal to me. I've moved this thread into the Website Bugs forum, as Mike (site owner) is more likely to see it here than in the original location. I will do some digging as well, but the donation mechanism is pretty much Mike's baby.

OK, that being the case, I think the ground to the left blinker is bad. With the lights off, the blinker is grounding by feeding back through the parking light circuit. Turn on the lights, and there is suddenly no place to complete the circuit. Check the ground at that light closely.

What E said. You can get away with the marker housing grounding out to the fender with stock wiring, but to do the blinker trick the metal housing must not have a ground path. the housing needs to be correctly mounted in the groove in the rubber base gasket, and the mounting screws must not touch the side of the hole where they pass through the housings. If you remove the marker from the car with the wires connected and it works properly, you definitely have a grounding issue.

I suspect the Koni's have a firmer ride than either stock or KYB, even on the softest setting. So they may not be the ideal choice for a stock car, regardless of price.As an aside, $500 seems like a lot to do 4 strut inserts on a 240Z. I can do a set of 4 in my garage in about 2-1/2 hours. Granted, not everyone is equipped to do this at home, but I can't imagine it taking a shop any longer than that.

Koni Classic are still non-gas, I believe. Part numbers 86-1811 & 86-1812.

In my experience, the original vinyl is generally too old and brittle to re-sew successfully. YMMV, however.

I agree. Beandip is running a P79 w/liners on an L28 in his 240Z, runs strong.

I can't imagine getting consistent and good RTs w/o power braking.

Jon, I seem to recall that early (small-shaft) ball joints were available again. Search around a bit before you buy later knuckles.

The "coupe" is/was really a targa-type with a removable roof panel. No room to stow the roof panel in the car though, so you had to plan ahead. The targa was only available in the Pontiac version. I personally prefer the styling of the Saturn or Opel versions over the Pontiac, but even so none of them are something I would actually buy.

If everything in there is stock, nothing will be a big improvement. Not cutting down the guides, nor removing the liners. For stock intake, exhaust and cam, I'd leave it stock and put it together.

To add to Blue's comment, I've never seen an attempt to remove those that didn't look bad. (Read as ruined the head.) The ports that have the liners are not the same size/shape as the real square ports, and trying to make them match the manifold is a major PITA.