Arne

As of 2:00 PM today. Gray primer, red guidecoat. Looking good so far...

That's not a difference with the transmission, but with the car. Early 240Zs have a smaller opening in the transmission tunnel than do later Zs.

Looking at it through the eyes of someone (me) who has done it both ways (bought the wrong car first, and the right car later), Carl is right. That green car will be a great buy for someone.

I'll confirm this too. Don't be in a hurry, wait for the right car. I bought my first 240Z after 4 months of research and looking. And I still bought the wrong car. 12 months later, the right car found me, when I wasn't actively looking. So patience is the key, the good cars ARE out there.

In my experience, a worn clutch (either plate or disc) slips when disengaged, not the reverse that is described in the original post. This one won't engage fully, and so it the gears continue to spin. Doesn't sound worn to me.Could be bad fingers on the pressure plate, though.

Definitely sounds like a clutch problem of some sort, since the pedal doesn't feel right. If the pedal felt OK another possibility might be excessive drag in the pilot bearing. Rare, but possible. Cracked or damaged clutch fork maybe?

Contact Panasport and ask for assistance?

Gotta wait until the car gets back from the paint shop, Dave. You know I won't let you down...

I understood that the differential relocation in '72 and later was primarily to reduce halfshaft u-joint wear. I've had two '71s with the diff in the original location that were drivable, neither has experienced this problem. I'd be looking for something else. Did you have the driveshaft balance checked?

Ron, my current one is an aftermarket part that was replaced when the original owner broke the original one many years ago. It is pitted and has some signs of lamination failure around the edges. The replacement is also an aftermarket windshield, as the only Nissan glass still available has the dark shaded band at the top, which I don't want. I do not know the brand I'm getting, I just told my glass man what I wanted and he found it and had it shipped into town.

I have a new non-shaded windshield sitting at the glass shop waiting for the paint work to be complete. My advice is that if your glass guy says he can't find a non-shaded, tell him to try harder, or try a different glass shop. My installer said that while they take a little legwork to find, they do still exist. He found several scattered throughout the country, mine came from Spokane. He said there were also some in Phoenix, Baltimore and other cities as well.

Windshield comes out of mine today or tomorrow, prior to primer. In fact, I have a new windshield going in when it's done.

Looks like color will be shot on Friday, should be able to pick it up by the end of the month.

That's one of the reasons I bought a Nikon D40 over the D40x/D60. The D40x/D60 have a flash sync speed of 1/200, but the D40 is 1/500.

You should post this in the forum classifieds, not in the Technical Forums.

Carl, the BD harness is generic, not custom fit for Zs. They offer the same harness in their RX7 and other catalogs as fitting those cars. (See attachment.) From what I've been told, the connectors are in fact designed to plug into the headlight connector. I've also heard numerous other complaints with it when attempting to use it in a Z.

If you have a '71 (or a '70), using a '72 or later 4 speed requires the same type of shift lever changes as installing a 5 speed in an early 240Z requires. The only ones that fit with no monkeying around (tunnel and console mods, or custom shift lever) are the early Type A transmissions. Or so I have been told. I do have a known good Type A, but it is tentatively spoken for. Just have to figure out how to ship it cross-country.

What year? There are two different types of 4 speeds for 240Zs.

Ummm, isn't that what I said? :stupid:

All true. At least with my DSLR I again have the option to pre-focus. Can't do that with your average digi-cam.But I don't get your battery comment. My 35mm SLRs all had batteries, and they were always dead at an inconvenient time. Battery life on my D40 is outstanding, and the start-up delay is non-existent.

That's the breather hose. I can't say for certain about the 280Zs as I've never owned one, but the factory breather hose for a 240Z also has the brush inside. I assume it's there to keep oil sludge out of the intake.

Here's a tip I got from a professional photographer - never just delete the photos off the card using your computer or camera in playback mode. Always FORMAT the card in the camera instead. Cleans up the directories and such. Letting Windows or iPhoto do it after download is convenient, but eventually you WILL have data corruption.

Maybe. I recently sold my 7 MP Sony point-n-shoot and bought one of those entry-level Nikon DSLRs. (Only 6 MP, BTW.) I did it strictly for action shots. A good point-n-shoot is fine for pictures of things that are still, or moving slowly. But for things that move, a DSLR is MUCH better. Instant on, instant manual zoom control, and lightning auto-focus. I'm much happier with my DSLR, and get candid shots with it that I could never count on getting with my Sony.But in general, I agree. It's not the camera, or the megapixels or whatever that makes a good picture. It's the subject and composition. If you're taking pictures of cars at a show, any camera will do as long as you know what you are doing.

Very true. When I sold suspension upgrades I was told that by the Energy Suspension factory rep. I would only consider black for my own car.

That's why I said they look similar, they could be very different in both size and detail. Best guess at this point.