Arne

Yes, but I think my 240Z is different stampings than your 280Z, Christian.

Pulled the buckets this past weekend, no gaskets, and no indication that the buckets had ever been removed before.

OK, so maybe only the early cars came with gaskets?

Day and a half, actually. After parting both the yellow car and the prior blue parts car, I'm getting darned good at taking these cars apart.Ron, there were no gaskets between the buckets and the fenders. And there is no evidence that the buckets had ever been removed since new, and several clues that make me believe that to be the case. Perhaps the gaskets were used on later cars that had metal buckets?

Can't stop now...

If it were me, I'd pull the pump and do it right. It's not that big of a job, I've done it on my yellow car for this very reason. Half hour job, no more.

Anyone need a sunroof?

OK, I'll keep that in mind.

That was (obviously) the idea. And yes, he did did the job I was hoping for. They aren't a matched set, the rears are a deeper offset than the front. Unless I can find something scrap to throw on it, they will go to the crusher with the remains of the shell later this Spring. The work was done at Evolution Auto Body, a one-man (Scott Daniels) shop in Salem, OR, basically next door to ZTherapy. I don't know how many S30 roofs he has re-skinned, but I do know that mine was not his first, probably more like his fifth or sixth. I could tell the first time we talked that he knew exactly what he was doing. And he is incredibly affordable. I supplied the donor roof, and the total was all of $450! He invoiced me 14 hours at $30/hr. That included a couple hours to do a touch of rust repair under the windshield seal on the donor roof. I dropped the car off Monday afternoon, and picked it up late Friday, so four days. I can't recommend him enough for this type of work. It's more than an itch. Now that the car is back home, I'm going to strip it the rest of the way down and deliver it to my local paint shop week after next. I would have let Scott do the whole re-paint, but he said he is so busy that he's not taking in any full repaints right now. But he said squeezing in a roof skin job was no problem. So I'll have the rest of the paint done locally. No problems, other than the above-mentioned rust repair on the donor roof prior to welding it together. The job is fairly straightforward. Drill out all the spot welds on the donor panel to remove it intact, cut the bad roof off the car and grind down (not drill) the spot welds on the car, and re-weld the new panel into place. I'm certain that any competent sheet metal guy could do it, but I'm glad I picked one who has done it on these cars before. Done. Scott cleaned and applied a nice glossy epoxy to the underside before he welded it on as part of the job. Perhaps it's not a stiffener, but it sure seems like it might be. On the trip back home (60 miles) the car seemed much quieter, even without any headliner.

Yeah, guidecoat. The real surface is near perfect.

I brought my red 240Z back home this afternoon, following the successful re-skinning of the roof to eliminate the sunroof. Here are some before and after pictures. I don't have pictures of the process itself just yet, we couldn't get his camera to download to my laptop (bad USB cable, I think), so I'll have to wait for him to e-mail them to me before I can post them. Soon, I hope.

Then I'd use the same type you have now. I still think that yours has been replaced at some time in the past, and the lines re-routed or replaced, but no matter now.

Gus, don't pay attention to the reservoirs alone, as those can be changed. Look on the side of the cylinder near where the lines connect and look for a cast marking of 'F' and 'R' to correctly identify which port does what on the cylinder that you have. Your replacement needs to have the same port config as the lines on the car.Your car certainly should have come with the early style, as mine (7/71) did. I believe that the style changed in 8/71 or 9/71 production.

Did you connect the two ballast resistor wires to each other? That is required.

The restored one you saw is at the very upper end of the price scale. But good working AM radios with un-cracked intact faceplates and the correct antenna switch often go for $200-300 on eBay. I packed mine up for safekeeping. You never know when I might want to go back to stock.

Prior to the 10% ethanol change, I was getting 20-22 in town, and 30 on the highway. In-town seems to have dropped since the gas change, haven't done any road trips to check since then.

The diaphragm is for the pumping action. The pump attaches to the head and is sealed there by a pair of gaskets on either side of the insulator. Might simply need new gaskets. Gary, thanks for posting about the diaphragm. I didn't know it was still available. I will have to get me one just to have, since I still have the original pump.

Randy, both of my (at the time) functional '71s had/have issues with that. I suspect that adjusting the cable/wire that works when you go full left might help. If you get yours fixed, let us know what you did.

You've got uneven pressure to the front calipers, or a sticky caliper. Both the pull to the left, and the blued left rotor indicate that the left is working much harder than the right. If the flexible lines are stainless braid-covered teflon (and both are the same manufacturer), I strongly suspect the right caliper has a stuck piston.

Welcome, Jason! Ahh! You've obviously been reading a bit prior to this first post. You rock!

Could be unevenly adjusted rear brakes, or a partially restricted right front brake hose. How old are the hoses?

Since the pulley is not coated, that would seem to eliminate the fan clutch as a possibility.

Be warned, Tim. Real 240Z bumpers are hard to find these days, and can be quite expensive for nice ones - Several hundred per end easily. If you like the look, but don't need chrome, you might look into the fiberglass or CF 240Z-style bumpers that MSA sells.

I've found that removing the nuts from the long bolts at the nose of the diff can often be very hard with the diff in place. For me, it seems much simpler to drop the whole diff instead. Support the car as noted above. Then unbolt the half-shafts from the diff flanges, as well as the driveshaft at the pinion. Don't remove the driveshaft from the rear of the tranny, the gear oil will all drain out through the rear. Just support the driveshaft in place but out of the way. Then remove the two diff to mustache bar nuts, support the diff with a floor jack from the rear of the car and unbolt the cross-member from the body. Slowly let the jack down and forward. Doing it this way allows everything to be torqued properly, and also is necessary if you plan to replace the upper strap.

I've had three different '71s, two 4 speeds and one automatic. They all had the type in your second picture as well. I probably have one or two used ones available if you need one.