Arne

Can I just have the carbs?

OK, I can't quite fathom why you could get reverse, but the clutch is not working. The next step will require a second body. With the engine off, have someone press the pedal in and out while you watch to see if the slave cylinder on the transmission is moving the end of the clutch fork. If the clutch fork moves, something is wrong inside the clutch. But more than likely, you have a stuck piston in the master cylinder, or one or both of the cylinders are bad.

Also, remember that if the car lurches forward when you start it in gear that pressing the clutch WON'T STOP IT. If it starts moving forward, turn off the ignition and stand on the brake!

I'm having a bit of difficulty pinning this on the clutch if you can shift into reverse. The process for forward and reverse is the same. If the area in front of the car is clear, you could try putting it in first or second with the engine off, then try to start it with the clutch pedal depressed. Be vary cautious with this, as if there is a clutch problem the car could lurch forward even with the pedal depressed. If the car starts normally (no lurching forward), then carefully try to move forward. Please try this and report back what happened. Also, remember that if the car lurches forward when you start it in gear that pressing the clutch WON'T STOP IT. If it starts moving forward, turn off the ignition and stand on the brake!

If the starter won't turn it over, that's not gas, or anything to do with fuel or spark. That sounds like a bad starter to me. They can sometimes work when they are cool, but bind up when they are warm or hot.

But with the engine running and the car stationary, you can shift into reverse, but not into any of the other gears?

It's been a long, cold, wet winter here in Western Oregon as well. Nothing like what you folks up north are dealing with, but worse than recent years here. But they're claiming it should start to break later today, mid-60s tomorrow and mid-70s on Saturday. I can't wait. Of course, the rain will probably return next week...

Remember that loop is not correct for all Series 2 cars. Mine (37705, 7/71) is pretty much cut pile, not loop.

I'll be interested in seeing the pictures, and also in finding out who made them. Are they loop or cut pile?

Brian called it, the big thing appears to be exemption from inspections. http://www.state.nj.us/mvc/Inspections/VehiclesExempt.htm Since there are no inspections at all in my part of Oregon, I didn't even consider inspections.

Not familiar with NJ requirements, but there may be insurance ramifications as well. I've heard stories of claims being denied because an insured vehicle with 'Historic' registration was damaged while being used outside the 'Historic' approved uses. So you need to weigh the benefits against the restrictions and possible issues. I don't know what benefits the QQ gives you. Here in Oregon the restrictions for 'Special Interest' or 'Antique' registration are similar to what you outlined. The possible downsides are possible citations if used outside the allowed uses, and the possible insurance issues I mentioned above. The benefits are a one-time cost (never expires), and being able to use period plates. I wanted the period plates, but was not willing to accept the other downsides. Here in Oregon I had another option - I can (and do) have period plates registered as vanity plates instead. It costs me a lot more (especially over time) than the 'Special Interest' registration, but I have no restrictions.

Glad we could help, Mike.

On the fender emblem, sometimes you can reach one of the studs from the inside of the fender through the wheel opening, and carefully push it out to get the removal started.

Yes, Dave. But some other docs on the web tell you to connect the original wire for the points dizzy to the 'B' terminal, not to run a new wire. On a manual tranny car, the effect is the same, in fact that's what I did on my red car. But on an automatic, the two wires to the dual-point dizzy don't both work all the time. So on an auto car, you need a separate wire, using either of of the originals leads to problems.

Wups! Is the car now - or was it originally - an automatic? If so, only one of those two wires will work to fire it. You may need to re-group and run a separate new wire from the + on the coil to the B terminal on the module. This will by-pass the dual-point shenanigans the automatics used.

Good point. Experienced 240Z buyers will assume hidden rust unless proved otherwise. So the more areas you can document as solid will allow higher asking prices.

Jag E-Type. Only the Series 1 with covered headlights will do. Either 3.8 or 4.2 Litre, I don't car. I still lust after those, but will never happen. Those cars have just gotten too far out of reach for my income.

I ran out of poll choices, Dave. We're limited to 15 choices. But edge binding is a given, as far as I'm concerned.

I want 1 set, but all my car funds for the next couple of months are dedicated to the upcoming roof re-skin and following re-paint. So I might not be ready to get mine until late Summer.

I posted a 30 day poll on what carpet features people are most interested in. Please find it at http://classiczcars.com/forums/showthread.php?t=30096

This is a follow up poll to the on-going 240Z carpet thread. What features in a 240Z carpet kit are important to you? Please check as many choices as are applicable. Also, please assume that there will be at least two basic kits, one for most Series 1 cars, and one for the later cars. Very early low-VIN cars are a special case, and should be considered separately. Here are some pictures that illustrate the things we are talking about here, more photos are in the thread linked above.

No, it is not. The rotor should still point the same as with the points dizzy.

That will take a long time, if ever. Many, many years. As Carl noted above, coil springs aren't very prone to sag. In fact, both beandip and I noticed that our cars actually got TALLER after some break-in miles, presumably because the KYBs had less "stiction" as the seals broke in. Both our cars went up about 1/4-3/8" (7-10mm). Since I've never used them, I'll have to let some one else answer this one. Still not good enough. I had non-gas Mulhollands in with my springs for a while. While the car will sit lower than it does now with your Tokicos, it will still be 3/4-1" (20-25mm) too tall, because of the springs alone.My advice would be to cut the springs. I'm happy with the results on my cut springs.

I think (from past experience with Bilsteins on other cars) that if Bilsteins were still available that they would increase the ride height over non-gas shocks. But since Carl's blue Z still has 35 year old springs, it is quite possible that they have sagged some. My guess after looking at the pictures of your white 260Z is that you'll need to cut your springs about the same as I did, as noted in my first reply to this thread: http://classiczcars.com/forums/showpost.php?p=247187&postcount=16

To me, "european tone" for exhaust always brings to mind the mellow note of an early Jag E-Type. Beautiful sound. Actually, my 240Z with a single 24" glass-pack in the middle and small diameter pipe to the rear (no rear muffler) sounds pretty nice in this way. Not quite the smooth Jag sound, but in the neighborhood. For Zs, I see that comment most often in ads for Monza exhausts. Since I've never heard a Monza on a Z in person, I can't say for certain what they mean by that though.