Arne

I still love the early 919 yellow on a 240Z. A lot. Ranks as one of my favorite colors on these cars.But the red car doesn't need the full meal deal, assuming that I don't change colors. The engine compartment and interior are great. So changing color seems wrong to me in this case. The car is a very original survivor, and as such it should (and will) remain 905 red. The exterior is dinged, chipped and badly faded now. The flaws will be addressed, and the color will be matched to the unfaded paint inside the car. Toolbox lids, probably.

I'd be shipping a lot more parts...

Note to self: After I cut the roof off, remember to cut this piece out of the yellow car's shell prior to hauling the remains to the crusher...

We all have our little ways, now don't we. Should we talk about pin-striping now? or custom painting Hot Wheels?

Mike, I'd try to hold it to 2-3 amps, no more. It will take quite a while to charge it at that rate, but you shouldn't damage it.

9:00 AM or thereabouts.

The switch in a '72 was located in the radio faceplate, just above the tuning knob. They frequently got moved to the console when aftermarket radios got installed.

Got the gas tank out, very clean inside. Planning to bring it, the E31 head, rear bumper parts, taillights, glovebox doors, door panels, inside dogleg panels, tail trim panels, and other miscellaneous stuff. Or as much of it as I can fit in the car...

Banzai's website is seldom updated. Don't hink there has been an update at all in the 2 1/2 years I've been into Zs. Don't trust the prices you see there, or availability of any item you see there. I recall someone some months back saying the Banzai no longer had the part in question available at all, at any price.

If Charlie has no stock, also try Z Specialties in Snohomish. http://www.datsunstore.com/product_info.php/cPath/4/products_id/627

You mean like ones that Norm in BC (zeddsaver.com) sells?http://www.zeddsaver.com/decals.html

My car has all 8 as described. Here's a picture:

Those are aftermarket, not factory parts. The stuff was available in big spools back in the day, cut to fit and stuck on where ever a car owner liked it. Wheel openings and door edges were the most common. Don't think it could be easily restored, if at all. Also not sure if it is still available these days. You might check with local auto-trim places.

My thoughts exactly, Carl. It made so much sense when he explained it to me, compared to what other people were talking about. I plan to call to discuss his schedule tomorrow.

Jerry, I got your e-mail about one of the items I have on the classifieds, but all attempts to reply to you bounce. You ISP doesn't seem to recognize you. Please send me different contact info. All I know is your first name, don't have a good e-mail address or a CZCC username. Thanks!

Latest update - I've been in touch with a bodyman in Salem, OR who has re-skinned several S30 roofs. He knows what to do, where to cut, and how to get it all right at the end. His plan is to cut at the top of the windshield opening, the top of the rear hatch opening, and just inboard of the drip rails. The attached picture shows pretty much what he does. Related question -- Assuming I carefully remove it before hand, any tips on re-gluing the original headliner back into the car after this is done? The headliner now in the yellow car is original, and perfect. I'd love to save it rather than go with a replacement, if possible.

What color are the wires in the connector? I don't know a lot about 280s, but I suspect that the connector could be for the original power antenna, which may have been removed from your car. Just a WAG, though...

Have checked the compression yet? That would be my next move.

If the combustion chamber of the UK P90a is the same shape as the US P90/90a, it is a superior head than the E88. Bigger valves, much better combustion chamber shape, supposed to have better flowing ports, too. The compression with a P90a and flat-top pistons will still be less than you'd get with the E88 (probably around 8.5:1, I should think), but on the whole I'd think that the rest of the improvements of the P90a would still make it the preferable choice.

You mean the stainless drip moldings? Probably a dealer item, assuming they're still available at all. I've got a couple spare sets, but shipping them without damaging them could be a problem.

I can confirm this. My car still has the factory battery cables on it, and the negative cable will not reach if you use a battery that places the positive out from under the fender. No idea what the reasoning behind doing it this way was.

Selling Roadsters or Zs, Phil?

Actually, roundtops will fit just fine on the '73-74 manifolds, so if all you got was the carbs and the center linkage you're good. Changing the manifolds can lead to a cleaner looking installation, but is not required. One thing to watch though if you don't use the matching roundtop manifolds -- the water passages in your '73 manifolds will need to be plugged or blocked off if you are using four-screw ('70-71) roundtops. I believe the water passages on the '72 (three-screw) roundtops will match fine with the '73 manifolds.

Could be either way. Many of the older installations will have rivets, while the newer jobs may use tape.

The turbo engine has a rather low compression ratio for use w/o the turbo. Doesn't matter what carbs you use, you'd need to change the pistons to get the compression ratio up to normal.