Arne

Yes, I've done it.

Looks like a really great project, especially for an East Coast car. Somebody should jump on that one.

Right distributor, but the wrong module. It has the extra terminal on the side, which means it is an E12-93 module. It also does not have the later mounting pedestal, which is required. Your 240Z pedestal will not work.

I really don't think that there is any big difference between any of the electronic ignition choices for Z. Any of them will provide more consistent spark, provided that the distributor itself is in good shape. If you use a distributor with worn shaft bushings (either a worn ZX unit, or installing Pertronix or some such in a worn stock unit), or one with a non-functioning vacuum advance unit, don't expect much improvement. That's the often-overlooked part of this conversion. People stick a Pertronix in a sloppy stock 240Z distributor, or slap on a tired ZX distributor and expect it to be perfect. But these units still require the shaft and vacuum advance to be in good shape. Actually, as I mentioned in a post above, I don't have any issues still running on points. But I will eventually convert to a ZX ignition, if for no other reason than stopping any further wear on my original 240Z distributor.

DO you mean the wiper shaft boot? Or something different? Because the wiper shaft boots are already being repro'd. Sold by MSA and may others on eBay.http://www.thezstore.com/page/TZS/PROD/SWR01B/34-1206 But if you mean something different, please explain.

John, I got my spare from a local pick-n-pull for free, when I was buying a used wheel. Don't look for a ZX, those ignitions are generally all gone, and the ZX only used the E12-80 for two years. But carb'd 210s, 510s, pickups and other four cylinder Nissans also used the E12-80, and those cars are easier to find than the early ZXs. My spare module is off a 210 wagon.

Well, for one reason, points ignitions don't generally fail without warning, like an electronic ignition module can. And I can service points systems myself. Not so with an electronic. Yes, I agree that there are several good reasons to go to electronic. All the specs are superior. But in the real world it's not that simple. For example, I actually do have a ZX ignition, which I have not been able to get working properly. The car runs great with the points, but acts like it has a 4000 RPM rev limiter with the ZX ignition with either one of two different E12-80 modules. Yes, I should spend some time and figure out why, but there's not much motivation to do so when the original points work so well.

My '71 manual transmission has the stock single point distributor, I used Standard Blue Streak JP6X in it with Bosch cap and rotor. Works perfectly. Nothing against MSA, as I like them and do buy from them. But things like this that are available locally, I buy locally. Why pay shipping when you can pick it up on your way home?

Hmmm. He does have what appears to be a set of factory (chrome ring) headlight covers. Those truly ARE rare.

What class and organization are you planning to race in? Better get a rulebook and find out what's allowed before you buy your car. The turbo may be forbidden in many classes.

Hmmm. Jim, your definition of "a couple" must be significantly different than mine.I also welcome you, Justin. Here's hoping you get your car to the point you want it without too much pain.

And he has Jar Jar Binks for an avatar?!? What else do we need to say?

Timing. Verify TDC on #1 compression stroke, and make sure that ignition fires then while the rotor is pointing at #1 plug wire on the distributor cap. If the oil pump was removed on the engine, the distributor shaft could be way out of whack.

Here's a picture just to confirm.

Lance, does your car have any suspension mods? Gas shocks, perhaps? And do you still have the stock valance parts on it?

If you can get away with running normal (refractive lens) H4s where you are, you should probably have no problems with the MSRs. They are visually obvious as non-stock, but in function they are about the same as a refractive H4. A properly designed and engineered MSR should be able to be a small improvement over a refractive H4 of similar quality. However, in my experience, a premium refractive light (Cibie, Hella, IPF, etc.) will out-perform most MSRs. The MSRs available today were designed primarily for visual effect, not for best output. The clear lens has a distinctive and striking appearance, and that seems to be to design goal of all the MSRs I've encountered so far. So in short, if the best lighting is the goal, I'd go with Hella or Cibie H4s rather than MSRs.

http://www.datsunspirit.com/

I agree with Stephen on this one. Even if we discount the flammability issue, the residue left after the fact will likely INCREASE the resistance over time. So while the initial results may have been good, long term I'd suspect the problems will return.

The Western Bullet was made from the late '70s through the mid-80s. It was not highly polished, but came machine-finished. It included a chrome metal domed hubcap. It not all that popular in the narrow four bolt sizes, but was often seen on 1/2 ton pickups and full-size vans in 15x8.5 and 15x10 sizes. A quick search of my magazine archives didn't turn up a picture of the RWD version, but here's a shot from a 1981 ad of the FWD version on a Scirocco. It does give a good picture of the proper style center cap.

The evidence so far seems to show that for cars here in the US (and Canada), the "2400 OHC" cover was only used on manual transmission cars through sometime during 10/70 production. Some manual transmission 10/70 cars had the 2400 cover, others came with the later "Nissan OHC" cover. As near as I and others have been able to piece together, all automatics (which started in 9/70 or so) had the later cover.Like Stephen, even though it wouldn't be 'correct' for my (7/71) car, IF I were to dress up my engine compartment with a polished cover, I think the 2400 cover would be what I'd like to use. Since I have no plans to swap in an L28, it would be cool to have a valve cover that actually describes the engine.

Unfortunately, rolling the lip is no longer an option with the BRE Spook installed. But your results are still encouraging, Ron, in that your 195/65-14 should be about the same diameter as the 215/60-14s that I would like to use. The fact that they don't rub even on a lowered car is a good sign, as my car is at stock height with slightly stiffer Euro Stage 1 springs from Courtesy. The old ER70-14s were a full size taller than stock, so I'm not surprised that they rubbed a bit.

No, actually it doesn't sound right for a throwout bearing. If your clutch is properly adjusted, the throwout bearing should only make noise when the pedal is depressed. Even if the bearing is touching the pressure plate when released (and it shouldn't be) the noise should be far worse with the pedal depressed.

Are there any 240Zs here with Appliance brand 14x7 slot mags on them? Not the more common 6" wide, but 14X7s? Here's the deal - I found a full set of four Appliance Dish Mags (aka slots) in 14x7. Normally I wouldn't consider 7" wide due to the lack of tire choices. But this set of wheels is NOS. Never had tires mounted, never bolted on a car. The thought of NOS appeals to me a lot. But - my recollection from selling those wheels back in the late 70's and early '80s is that the 7" Appliances frequently had clearance issues, because (as I seem to recall) they were not zero offset, but more like -10 or so. Rather deep dish. So my concern is clearance when turning at the front valance. I figure I'll run 215/60-14 on them if I get them. That's both shorter and wider than the 195/70-14s I now have on my 14x6s. So my question is: Are there any 240Zs (approximately stock height) with these particular wheels on them? If so, what size tires are you running, and do you have any tire clearance issues?

The headliner looks OK...

Good point, Will. I hadn't thought of that.