Arne

Sorry, I'll use 'gender' next time...

Plus he uses shady marketing. He lists all his new parts as NOS. Sorry, reddat, but the 'O' in NOS means 'Old'. It's not NOS if I can walk into my local Nissan dealer and order it.Example - he sells 'NOS' L-series oil filters. I just bought one from my dealer a couple weeks ago, they had them on the shelf. He calls it NOS, puts an opening bid of $11.95 or a BIN of $16.95, both plus who knows how much shipping. I paid less than $6 after Z-car club discount. Doesn't sound like a nice guy to me... http://cgi.ebay.com/ebaymotors/Datsun-240z-260z-280z-Engine-Oil-Filter-NOS_W0QQcmdZViewItemQQcategoryZ33654QQihZ012QQitemZ220178546696QQrdZ1QQsspagenameZWDVW

I agree 100%. Not only that, but some people make a big deal about when a female Z owner joins up. Chances are, all she wants is a place to learn and share info about Zs, but she either has to put up with sexist remarks from some guys, or "we need more girls here" from other members (both guys and girls). Or both! It really shouldn't matter what sex we are here. If I was a gal joining here, I'd probably want to make a new account and pretend I was a guy so that I got treated the same as everyone else.

The factory wire guides are much cleaner looking.

Problem is that only us old nerds know what a listserv is, these days. Which is actually part of the problem....

Thanks, Stephen. I was thinking about posting something similar, but hadn't got around to it.

I suspect it will work, but depending on the year of the different parts the tip of the antenna may not look the same. All of my 240Z antennas have a conical tip, whereas the 280Z antenna I got for parts has a flat-topped cylinder-shaped tip. If you are concerned about strict originality, the difference will be quite visible to knowledgeable Z people.

Michelle, welcome!There's actually lots of Oregon people here, we just don't post to this thread, just the active stuff. In fact, if you compare the per capita membership here, Oregon probably has a disproportionate number of members. Not all are active posters, but they include: Rainman (Medford), yukonharry (Grants Pass), azcarbum (Redmond), myself (Springfield), Mike and zanthus (Albany), Zsaint and the ZTherapy crew (Salem), and beandip, nwcubsman, 240jetjoc, justazcarguy and many others I can't recall in the Portland area. Add escanlon and funz1z from across the river in Vancouver, and you see that we have a pretty sizeable number around here. Granted, almost all of these people own earlier Zs (mostly 240s, at least one 260 and a few 280s) rather than the later ZXs, but that is totally normal for this site, as the early cars were the original focus of this group. 280ZXs are welcome, though.

Ideally you want to get the correct harness for the car. If it was built 12/71 or earlier, you want part number 24014-E8300 which also is listed to fit '71s from 1/71. If it was built between 1/72 and 7/72 you want 24014-E8800. Figure out which harness you need and I'll bet we can find someone parting out a similar car.

No, look at the pictures in post 33, Bryan. Only the very earliest cars came with these, neither your car nor any of mine are old enough to have come with what these guys are talking about.

Yeah, he's posted it at least twice, and it never draws a bid. Since he apparently doesn't have a clue that it isn't really original, he probably doesn't understand why no one bids! In this case, the bidders are better informed than the seller.

Absolutely, you should not have sent him cash. Please send it to me next time. :bandit:

Looks like a Kameari to me. New ones cost a whole lot more here in the USA: http://www.zccjdm.com/catalog.php/azcarbum/dt43033/pd858346

A '73 240Z should not have the inductive loop. It should be a three-wire tach.

Yeah, your tach is bad internally. It will need to be replaced, as so far no one has successfully repaired one. As for the turn signals, I suspect a bad turn signal switch.

Of all the originality of my red car, an original spare was something I did NOT get. It came to me with a 14x6 chrome wheel and an oversize worn tire in the spare well. I built up a stock 4.5" wheel with a lightly used Michelin 175HR14 for my spare, but would love to get an original someday, HR of either Bridgestone or Toyo. It's just not real high on the priority list right now.

Yes, Enriqué, it certainly should. Excellent point.Mike, any chance you could create a Vendor forum for this, the alternator adapters and the relay harnesses?

I have also added these to the Product Review section of the club site here. We encourage any of you who install a set to give honest reviews. Thanks. http://www.classiczcars.com/reviews/showproduct.php?product=14&cat=7

Here's a link to the information page, which also has the download link for the instructions, in PDF format. http://1971.240z.home.comcast.net/extras/sidemarker.html

First, let me preface my opinion with this - it's your car. So ask for opinions and advice if you wish, but in the end you should do what YOU like, not what others like. Unless, of course, you are planning to sell it shortly, in which case going with the majority opinion may lead to an easier sale. Personally, I like them either stock, or close to it. Any flat or matte gray color, short of full flat black. I refinished the panels on my red car using the custom paint from CDM. But the panels on my yellow car were/are a much darker flat gray. Not black, but considerably darker. And they look fine to me that way too.

I think he's means this one: http://cgi.ebay.com/ebaymotors/72-datsun-240z-Classic-straight-body-excellent-engine_W0QQitemZ320186548082QQihZ011QQcategoryZ6187QQssPageNameZWDVWQQrdZ1QQcmdZViewItem

I normally do the hammer trick on mine, but besides taking a bit of experience, it's difficult to do when the parts aren't on the car. A pickle fork will work, especially if you are replacing them (as the fork may damage the joint itself, and as Enriqué mentioned it will damage the rubber dust boot). Or use a tie rod separator which works like a gear puller if you wish to re-use the joint.

I've heard that the industry movement back to chains has to do with a change in US emissions requirements. Something about lack of required maintenance, or some such.

Yeah, they do exist. Best bets for truly rust free are low mileage one or two owner cars that have been garaged all their life, preferably here out West. They can take some effort and/or luck to find, though.I have one, in my case it was luck.

Justin, I agree that this mod would be even more valuable on a 280Z or large-bumper 260Z. Unfortunately, it is my understanding that the later cars use a completely different style of electrical connector. Dave has been unable to find a source for these (round?) connectors, and so he has not been able to offer his kits in "pre-assembled, plug-n-play" form for the 260Z/280Z cars. This applies to not only this latest part, but also his headlight and parking light relay kits. I know he has been able to offer headlight relay kits for later S30s by leaving off the special plugs and leaving the connection to the car's harness to be done by the owner. That option won't work for these little adapters, as other than the connectors there's very little to them. Short answer - these adapters will fit any Datsun whose parking light pigtail connects to the main harness using the square connector shown in the picture above, and also has the sidemarker pigtail connecting to the main harness in the same area using individual bullet connectors.