Arne

More? Than the 240Z? That's hard to quantify. While there there are basic similarities of purpose, they are still very different cars in execution. The pluses for the Porsche include the satisfaction of a 40 year longing (sure, I was just a little kid, but I've wanted a 911 from the early days, even before the 240Z was introduced), plus the fact that the later 911's are more common than a nice 240Z, and so I don't have to be paranoid about something catastrophic happening to it when I drive it around town. I was always afraid someone would rear-end the Z and it'd be gone.In retrospect, I may have made a mistake in buying the red 240Z - it was too nice to pass up, but it was also too nice for my purposes. As I noted above, I always worried when I drove it, worried about the miles I was putting on it, yet I'm not the type of person to own a garage queen. I'm going to drive my cars, frequently, and when I want. So I might have been better off had I passed up the red car and finished the yellow one as a mild resto-mod. I wouldn't have been as concerned about driving that one. But no regrets. I had 5 years with a rather special 240Z, and I know that in Norway it will be living the life (as a pampered weekend car) that I wouldn't give it. And back here in the states, I still have a car that is a kick to drive, and that I have lusted after for decades. No one loses.

I owned an E36 328i for 8 years, had no real problems, it was a fine car. Sold it to a neighbor a couple of years ago, still a great car. Had an E21 323i (euro-model) prior to that, it was a kick in the pants. (For those of you in the USA not familiar with the first gen 323i, imagine a 320i with small chrome bumpers and a 2.3 liter inline six.) Also have a '92 K75-RT I've owned since new.

The Konig program is a sponsorship for race cars. Requires NASA membership (they mention that your membership status will be verified), and photo documentation of said race car complete with Konig decals. There's a lot more fine print as well, but for people who don't have a real race car, probably not going to happen.

Nope. I looked extensively about 6 years back. Unlike some other cars (my old MG comes to mind), brand new harnesses are not available. Not enough market to justify the development cost.

KYBs will be softer than the Tokicos, but if the car is lowered they may not last long. There have been mixed results with KYBs on cars with reduced suspension travel.

I ran the GR-2 inserts with my Euro Stage 1 springs, I felt the ride was fine. Firm, but not harsh. I'd recommend the KYBs as a good match with those springs. But have you researched the ride height issue with those Euro springs? You will need to cut them down to even get to stock ride height, which is still significantly higher than the Eibachs you now run.

VTO LeMans. Only in 15", but I guarantee that with the right size tires you can still fill the fenders.

Gap is fixed on the Pertronix Ignitor for the Nissan L-series engines. You will need to reset the timing after install, though.

If I still had mine, I would. From here that would be about 12-1300 miles each way. That's do-able.

You might want to keep an eye on the Wheels-for-sale area on the AE86 forums. Lots of odd old-school stuff there. Might get lucky. (I expect a finder's fee if this works. ) http://forums.club4ag.com/zeroforum?id=22&days=20&page=1

The Brocks are VERY protective of their trademarks and copyrights, so I really doubt that you'll find one posted online anywhere. Could be wrong, but I'm betting not.

Easiest is the bumpers. 74.5+ have big, impact bumpers (like a 280Z) with black rubber accordions on the sides.

Yup, bad booster. These cars aren't all that unusual, most things work much like they do on other cars.

I suspect the OP is talking about 240SX engines into an S30. In any case, for engine swap info, the place to go is http://hybridz.org but be warned - they aren't friendly to noobs who just pop in and ask very basic questions like this. They expect you to research and read the previous info.

Moved to Group Buys forum. FYI - I had one of Bryan's boots in my car. Excellent reproduction, highly recommended.

The notch is there to clear the fuel lines that run in the tunnel. I can't recall which side they are on, but just make sure the notch is on the side with the fuel lines.

I didn't see this thread until now. Sorry, could have saved you some head-scratching. Removing the lever as you did is the correct method for the Type A transmissions as used in '70 & '71. You done good.

First, remember that the particular style you are looking for was made by several companies back in the '70s. I do not know how many of them made the deeper dish wide version. But none of those companies have made them in over 30 years. There probably aren't many people working at these places that are old enough to remember that they used to make them. In fact, the company has probably changed ownership several times since those wheels were last built. Trying to get info on a 30+ year old wheel from a current manufacturer is a total waste of time. Frankly, not even close. That is a painted stamped steel wheel.

I'm not totally familiar with the 280Zs, but from the picture I suspect that's a drain from the heater box. So you may have a leaking heater core.

You'll need to ditch those Mitsubishi wheels, Blue.

Randy, I cut 3/4" off the one I used. See here - http://www.classiczcars.com/forums/showthread.php?36463-R-T-diff-mount-Group-Buy&p=310484&viewfull=1#post310484

Look like Rotas to me. That offset is a bit high, will probably need spacers to clear the strut tubes.

Thread moved to the non-Z part of the forums.

Speaking as someone who sold custom wheels in the late '70s, I can say without doubt that they are rare today because they weren't very popular at all back in the day. Most people didn't care for them, and so not many were sold compared to the other styles of the day.