Arne

Brooks, the quick and fairly affordable fix for the hood release cable is to replace it. I bought a new one from my local dealer last winter - it was $30 after club discount. Or you could look for a decent used one. The parking brake cable is not really repairable either, but is considerably more expensive new, around $125 or more. As it turns out, I might be able to help you on both of those parts with good used. PM me, or I think you have my e-mail.

Trust me Asta, a knowledgeable Z buyer will want to see what the tar-mat might be hiding. I just pulled it (finally) on my yellow project Z, and what looked to be fairly solid turned out to be quite bad. Yours may be OK, but you'll never know until you pull it up and check.

Good for a 510, but won't fit over the front brakes on a Z. Price seems high to me as well.

I ordered one from Tabco last week. I was told that it would be shipped this week. I guess I better give them a call to check on status.

I just recently finished rebuilding the Type A 4 speed in my red 240Z, due to a slow second gear synchro and excessive countershaft end play which caused a torque-related clunk in first through third gears. I totally agree with Stephen about going through a used transmission before installing it permanently, although for me personally, I'd install it and run it for a short time just so that I could assess its true condition prior to tearing it down. Ron is also right in his comments concerning improvements, modern transmissions are better - generally stronger, more durable, and quieter. And yes, most people including fairly skilled mechanics do panic at the thought of disassembling a transmission. On the other hand, if you have a service manual with a decent set of instructions regarding transmission disassembly and servicing (the early factory service manuals do, although just barely), I find that rebuilding a manual transmission to be easier than rebuilding an engine. It is fussy work, and you do need a few tools that you may not already have (such as gear and bearing pullers, and an accurate micrometer), but it's not really difficult, especially not the second or third time. First time can be mildly un-nerving, though...

James, here in the US the early mount was used at least through 7/71 production, as all three of the 240Zs I have had (10/70, 4/71, 7/71) came with the solid (non-bushed) transmission crossmember. Including - I might add - the 10/70 automatic car. The same crossmember was used for both the Type A 4 speed and the automatic. As for pictures or specs, your request is about a fortnight too late. I had one sitting in the garage up until then, now both are back in their respective cars.

The eBayer of that tire is rather mis-informed. No 240Z ever came with Michelins. The tire in the auction is a Michelin 175R14 XWW (white-wall) that dates from the mid-70s.

Ron, given the parts and pictures that you have, a good exhaust shop should be able to build a rear section for you. Probably less cost than what you'd pay for an original rear section, assuming you could even find one.

I'd say yes, it is. The Toyo Z1 in 175HR14 was a common fitment to the '71-73 240Z, the other common choice was a Bridgestone. The date code indicates your tire was built in the 39th week of 1971. How does that jive with your car's build date?

The problem is that terms like "3/4 race" and 'stage 1" are both undefined, and can mean anything the sales people say it means. In other words, not all 'stage 2' cams will have the same specs. If you want to compare cams, you really need the true specs, not undefined terms.

But you should also verify that the cable that closes the vent flap hasn't come loose from the heater box end. Check to make certain that something is moving when you move the lever from Vent to Heat.

Can be difficult to make a living at it, though. And it can take a whole lot of time. Take Danny's Datsuns here in Oregon, for example. His Z business is not his day job, and he acquired lots of Zs - probably pushing 50 last time I visited. And the time it takes means that when he's not working his day job, he's doing Z stuff. If you have no other things that you want to do, maybe that's ok. But Danny has grown weary of it (as I would) and is attempting to wind it down. He'd happily sell the whole pile of cars and already-removed parts in a lump sum if anyone is interested and has the acreage to store them...

Lower profile is the part that changes the speedo, unless you use larger diameter wheels as well. Best 14" sizes for an early Z to maintain reasonable speedo accuracy are 195/70-14 and 215/60-14. The 215/60s are wider and just a touch shorter. I have the 195/70s on mine.

Yeah, I should have quoted the question when I answered.

No, an early Toyota Corolla. Second generation, to be more precise. http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Toyota_Corolla#Second_Generation_.E2.80.94_E20_series_.E2.80.94_1970

The wheels appear to be Superior turbine-style with E-T centercaps. Should be 14x6 in size. The Superior turbine style is a bit unique in that the vanes go all the way into the center, and they don't have a non-vaned area around the lugs. Beandip has a set on his 240Z, which is the only set I've seen in person for 20 years or more. However that doesn't make them monstrously valuable as while some people really like them, many are rather ambivalent to that style. If they are in really great (read shiny and un-tarnished) condition figure no more than $50 each, or $200 for the set. Dull finish, corrosion and curb rash (if any) will drop their value considerably. The old Tiger Paws are mostly curiosities, and won't have much value to Z restorers at all. Tires of that age are not useable (read as unsafe) on the road due to aging of the rubber, and the high likelihood that the steel belts will have lost their bond to the tread and/or tire carcass (a problem those Tiger Paws exhibited even when they were still in production). As for the vintage look, that might be valid for someone restoring an early '70s GM car where those tires were frequently used as original equipment. But for Zs what people are looking for (generally) is original Bridgestone or Toyo tires.

It's called 'leeching' in the web development community. The pictures must be posted on some other website somewhere (CarDomain in the example above) and then you can insert the address of the image using the[ img ] [ /img ] tags. Extra spaces inserted to make the tags display. The only problem with leeching is that if the original ever moves or is deleted, users on the sites doing the leeching can't see it anymore. If you search through old posts here and see broken image icons or red Xs, that's what's happened. The original leeched picture is moved, re-named or gone. So for an example, if I enclose the following url of a picture off my own website inside those tags, I get the picture shown just below it. The picture actually still lives on my website, it's just displayed here. http://1971.240z.home.comcast.net/images/canby07-3.jpg

As mentioned in the thread linked above, that will very a lot depending on how thorough you are, and how much you have to pay for the transmission and other parts. As a guess, I'd figure on $500 or a bit more, figuring you'll need a new clutch, a used transmission and flywheel and other parts. Read the entire thread linked above.

Except the size that is listed is the size of the insulator, not the conductor. Larger wires have more insulation, and therefore more of the spark makes it to the plug, rather than leaking out on the way. For a car with a normal ignition, there is really not much difference between the sizes, unless you have an incredibly hot coil. I'd go with whatever good name brand looks good to you. I've got NGK 7mm on my red car, they seem fine, and I've observed no spark leakage after dark.

Was the car originally an automatic, by chance?

Re: the sunroof - No, there was never any 'stock' or factory offered sunroof. Yours (like mine) was added later by a dealer or former owner.

Try the outfit in the post below. They specialize in hard to find caps. http://classiczcars.com/forums/showpost.php?p=191337&postcount=16

Early period aftermarket, not "original" in the true sense of the word. Coco mats were common in the aftermarket in the early 70s.

No, the stub axle is the flanged part that the rear wheel bearings support in the hubs. They are both sides the same.

Dave's headlight relays don't fit 280Zs, so they aren't applicable for the original poster's car.