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Don't know if there is a consensus. Either should work, but the MT90 is specifically designed by Redline to use in manual transmissions that originally called for 90wt gear oil, like our Zs did. I'm using MT90 in mine, and have no problems. I use MTL in the other (non-Datsun) cars.

I just asked Les about carpeting a couple weeks ago when I ordered my front Spook. He doesn't sell the original loop-style, only cut-pile. His pile carpet is very nice, or so I'm told by a7dz who just got his from Les a few weeks ago. Thanks for that, Enriqué, I'd forgotten that Troy sells loop as well. I'll keep him in mind also, he has the advantage (to me) of being on the West Coast. The jute padding is the factory sound insulation. Probably no need for it if you're using Dyna-mat or something similar. But for street driving you're going to want some sort of sound deadener.

Steve, if you are staying with those Mulhollands, you'll probably be fine with the stock springs. However, I found that KYB GR-2s raised my red car's ride height by over 1/2" once they broke in. That's with unsagged stock springs with 62,000 miles. I recently put my stock springs into storage. Since I wasn't interested in lowering the car at all, I cut down and used a set of the reproduction Nissan Euro Stage 1 springs. Had to cut 2 coils off each front spring and 1 3/4 coils off the rears, but now the car sits at the stock ride height, and the ride is pretty much unchanged.

Me with the yellow 240Z about 10 minutes after I unloaded it from the trailer after dragging it home.

That may not apply to 240Z springs, they are different that 280Z.

I've been planning on the loop kit from Datsun Spirit. From comments that Eiji has made to me, I suspect that Banzai sells the same kit. I probably won't get around to this for several months, though.

On a '71, there are three main issues - the covers, the foam and the elastic webbing that supports the seat cushion. All three are replaceable, and all of it is rather affordable. Figure $450 for all new OE-style cover kit, new foam and webbing kit. With these parts, if you lack the skills to do it yourself, it's a fairly easy job to pack them all down to a local shop and have them do it for you. The local shop will probably have the webbing in house, so that won't be needed if you have a shop do it.

Yup. Still working on the transmission, haven't made it that far forward yet. I'd assume that any normal condenser suitable for most any car would do. Can't swear to that, though. Yeah, still want 'em. But I haven't mailed it yet. Try to remember to do that this weekend.

As I noted above, and the attached picture shows, there are only 4 wires connected to the alternator from the factory. The two small wires in the plastic T-connector, a large white/red that connects to the 'B' terminal, and a large black that connects to the 'E' terminal ('E' for Earth or Ground). The condenser (if present) bolts to the ground with the black wire, and its wire goes to the 'B' terminal. If you have more wires than those four, they have been added by a previous owner and you'll need to trace them down yourself to see what they do and if they are still necessary.

As Jimmy pictured, there should be four wires to the back of the alternator. The pair in the plastic connector, a white/red wire, and a heavy black wire that connects to the alternator case to ground it. The capacitor is not strictly necessary, it serves to suppress radio interference. I'll try to remember to take a picture of the red car's alternator when I get home this evening. It is still totally stock, unlike the yellow car which has the ZX conversion.

http://www.vbulletin.com/

John, welcome! There's lots of info on this topic here, play with the search function a bit for terms like "pre-purchase" and suchlike. Because if any of us try to write it all here we're likely to forget something, but the site archives never forget. One of the first things you will find is that rust is a huge issue. Don't take the seller's word for it, seems like lots of people have pretty lax definitions of "rust-free". That said, for $10-13k you should be able to buy a really nice car, as long as you're not looking for a concours or show-quality example. But expect to have to travel or have it shipped, as the selection on much of the country is pretty slim. Decide ahead of time what it is that you want out of a Z. Total stock? Period-correct weekend driver? Modified road burner? Something else? Then we can help advise on specifics to look for - and specifics to look OUT for as well. And don't be afraid to ask for help. Having someone who has already been through this on their own car when you go to inspect one is a HUGE advantage. Many of the people on this site will be happy to help you should you need info on a car in their part of the country.

I've had a total of three '71 240Zs. One nice, one project, one crushed.

Yes, it sounds like your alternator died. The car was running totally off the battery. Eventually, the battery was too low to supply adequate power to the ignition. Had you gone much farther the car would have died completely.

Tri Mil is a known brand specializing in air-cooled VW exhausts. Looks like they may have been the people behind the old Targa brand of Z exhausts, too.

240Zs have recesses in the lower quarter behind the wheel for the rear bumper. I know that at least some years of 280Zs do not have those recesses.

Looks like that was more fun than I had rebuilding the red car's transmission on Saturday. (Especially since I'm not done with it yet.) I'll have to watch for the next Datsuns NW gathering.

Western is only one makers of this 'turbine' style wheel. They were also made by Superior, ET and others. Every brand differed slightly, in the width and number of spokes. Lots were made, so do a bit of hunting, they are out there.

Made in the '70s and '80s by several different companies. They will all be 14" wheels ranging from 5.5" to 7" wide. None of them are still made anymore, so your only option is to watch for a used set that can be cleaned up nicely. Try craigslist for starters.

Not sure what exactly you are looking for, but for starters try these two links: http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/240Z http://zhome.com/

And as you may have figured out from Dave's specs, the spring rates are definitely different front to rear.

And a large number of 240Zs have rusted to scrap by now. The potential market is far too small to justify the investment.

Randy, who are you getting the butterscotch seat covers from?

Let me add that at least in '71, step 5 should read, "Some of the tape is pulled off". Much of my car's tape is/was still there, covered with paint and undercoat.