Arne

The code 110 is called Red, but was more properly described as a very orangy-red, or Persimmon. Over the years, many of these Persimmon color cars have faded to the point that they are indistinguishable from 918 orange. Similarly, my '71 is 903 Red, which was a much truer red color. Yet it has faded to the point that it can not be told apart from the later persimmon color. This could explain your problem. Check for an orangy-red color inside the tool compartments.

One of my main goals in designing the plug was that the process be 100% bolt-on, no wiring mods needed, and the whole affair be 100% reversible in case you ever wish to go back to stock. If that's not important, certainly splicing the wires will work fine. Nothing magic about the plug.

Carl, I'm confused. On all of my Z's (one Series 1 and two Series 2s), from 'run' the next position is 'acc' and then 'off'. So your description of pausing at 'off' before continuing to 'acc' or 'lock' doesn't make sense. Or are the ignition switches in a '73 that much different? I thought the late '71-73 were all the same.

Thanks, Brian. 100% correct. I do host the info page listed above on my website, but Dave is the man.

Will, the N47 has bigger valves, which won't work with an L24 block unless the bores are notched for clearance, or it has been bored at least .040". Other than that, I should think the N47 would be fine.

I don't think the centers were originally painted at all, just raw cast aluminum. As for restoration, check out this thread: http://classiczcars.com/forums/showthread.php?t=20025&highlight=libres

Duplicate post deleted.

Outstanding! Congratulations! Now you can begin showing it off on the road like we do over here.

And as a final point, $600 for a set of ZTherapy rebuilts is probably cheaper than a new Holley and the required manifold. Cheaper, and much easier to set up, as you'll be starting from scratch on the Holley, whereas the SUs will be ready for fine-tuning and that's all.

Yup, that's it. This forum's moderators have been rather lenient on this rule. Try posting something like this in the discussion or technical area of many forums and the post will get deleted in no time. Do it more than once and you're likely to get suspended or booted.Now me personally, I like the more laid back attitudes here. But maintaining that means that we users must voluntarily obey the rules, even if - as correctly noted - our ads don't get viewed as much in the proper location. If we don't, the only two end results are heavy moderation, or anarchy and the resultant loss of forum usefulness.

KYB specifically says that their GR2 cartridges are NOT for use with lowering springs. I ignored that warning once before with a different brand of car, and the results were very bad. The KYBs do not have enough damping to control the increased loads that the higher spring rates and reduced shock travel cause. I'd recommend a set of Tokico shocks, and probably trimming the bump stops by 1/2 to 3/4 of an inch.

They won't interchange with out the 280Z hub as well. Use the 280Z rotor only and the caliper won't line up properly. Or so I've been told, never seen the 280Z parts in person.

Can someone tell me why this was posted here, rather than in the Classifieds? I'm certain that is the correct place for this stuff.

I ordered a few items a little over a week ago, noticed no difference in service. I also believe that MSA will not suffer. Sure, Sal was good. But a company's philosophy comes from the top. It will likely continue.

No, I got mine from Les at Classic Datsun. The MSA units are cheaper, but Les apparently owns the original BRE molds, and I decided to pay the extra, assuming the original might be better. Can't say whether that is true or not, as I've never seen the MSA part in person. I can say that I am happy with the workmanship on the one I got, but perhaps the MSA part is just as good. Don't know. Yes, original 905 red faded until it is indistinguishable from 110 persimmon red. It's fairly presentable, and will have to do until the yellow car is finished and sold. I thought about the duct issue and rain here in Oregon, but the ductless version isn't available from Classic Datsun, and I don't really drive the Z in the rain much anyway. And the ducted version looks better to me, so that's what I got.

I totally agree. The BRE spoiler is a nice accent to a 240Z and it's small bumpers. But a 280 needs something more imposing, a small spoiler would just get lost under the big bumper.Just my opinion, though. To each their own.

I ended up using 9 bolts, two outside each duct, and five across the front. I can see no way on my car to use holes in the back row, on my car they don't touch metal at all. But by using 9 across the front I was able to pull it nicely snug up to the valance, Doug. I suspect you need more bolts.

No, that's the same guy selling his repros.

Very true, you always need to take those numbers with a grain of salt. Especially when the stock original pulled 137 RWHP on that same dyno. My thought was if the engine is still that strong, why bother?But regardless, the 30+ HP gain would be nice.

Oops! My bad! I totally missed the $1000 part. You're totally right, best bet for that budget is a good used L28.

The point set is supposed to move, that's how the gap is set. I can't place the "lever", can you post a picture?

Yeah, James and Jim (a7dz) are doing fantastic work, both single-handedly. They should stand as inspirations to us all. No way I could do the job these guys are doing. I think Jim's car is getting close to done. Should be on the road before the year is out. Although I suspect he's shooting for Thanksgiving...

I'm going to use the 12 holes shown in the picture Will posted in the other thread. Pictures tomorrow, probably in the other thread. (Done hijacking this one, sorry!)

I just picked up the 12 nuts, bolts and 24 fender washers, Doug. So I suspect mine with all that pulling it into place may fit better than yours. Pictures later tomorrow, most likely.

Weather is forecast to be about ideal for non-A/C equipped Z-cars - partly sunny and lower 70s. Bring a picnic basket and join in!